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    This website is the passion-project of a USMC veteran/mechanic, @Tyler. I created Tacoma3G.com to share my knowledge of this subject with others and to provide like-minded folks with a comfortable space to ask questions and create 'build threads' within our Tacoma Forums. Now, if the format of this website is confusing to navigate for you, or if you're interested in my full mission and T3G's history, check out the Help and About pages.

Reference Ask a beginner question, get a serious answer!

That's exactly why I always include the OEM lug nuts when I sell my factory wheels. The new aftermarket wheels will need new lug nuts anyways, it's an opportunity to upgrade, and people can't use it as an excuse to back out of the deal.
 
0uTkAsT said:
That's exactly why I always include the OEM lug nuts when I sell my factory wheels. The new aftermarket wheels will need new lug nuts anyways, it's an opportunity to upgrade, and people can't use it as an excuse to back out of the deal.
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Agreed, I just failed to ask for the lugs back, and they didn’t include them with the return.
 
Is this a good deal on this Pro Suspension?
Fox.JPG
 
Bigstevie said:
Icon stage 2 or Fox 2.5 lift kit and why one is better than the other
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“Better” is a matter of opinion. Both make quality products. The biggest difference between them is Icon uses semi-digressive valving whereas Fox uses progressive.
A lot of dudes here, including myself, have Icons and they have been awesome.
 
I got another dumb question for ya! Decided on getting the Icon stage 3 suspension. It says 0-2.75” adjustable coil overs. I assume that means it comes with the coil overs needed to get the 2.75” lift but I don’t understand how that makes them adjustable. Don’t want to throw them on the truck and find out I didn’t get any lift out of them
 
Bigstevie said:
I got another dumb question for ya! Decided on getting the Icon stage 3 suspension. It says 0-2.75” adjustable coil overs. I assume that means it comes with the coil overs needed to get the 2.75” lift but I don’t understand how that makes them adjustable. Don’t want to throw them on the truck and find out I didn’t get any lift out of them
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The Black ring sitting on the coil adjust's to give more or less preload. You can make change's after you mount them. Just be sure you lift the front off the ground and lossen the Allen set screw. Make change's to what you like!
 
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A word of caution, the more you lift the front, the stiffer the ride will be
 
Hello Everyone. I am new here. I have a 2018 TRD Off-road double cab LB. I am looking at doing some upgrades without having to do a lift. I am looking at changing wheels/tires, grill and adding a topper. I’m not sure what route to go on wheels. I’ve been looking at 16” VTX, 16” methods and 17” TRD Pro rims that come on the 4-runners. I have no idea how big I can go tire wise if I get 17” rims. I’m looking at getting BFG KO2 tires. Any recommendations?
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
Hello Everyone. I am new here. I have a 2018 TRD Off-road double cab LB. I am looking at doing some upgrades without having to do a lift. I am looking at changing wheels/tires, grill and adding a topper. I’m not sure what route to go on wheels. I’ve been looking at 16” VTX, 16” methods and 17” TRD Pro rims that come on the 4-runners. I have no idea how big I can go tire wise if I get 17” rims. I’m looking at getting BFG KO2 tires. Any recommendations?
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Hey man, welcome. Saw your Mattis shirt, Magpul hat and AR in the other threads... You're going to fit in great around here.

Not sure about many other Texas members yet, the majority are currently from AZ and SoCal with a smattering of everything else.

As for the wheels, it's pretty much all up to your own preference as long as you go with a good brand. Try to stick with something in the ~4.5" backspacing range for best results.

Biggest 17" tire sizes on stock suspension pretty much leaves you looking at 265/70R17 or 275/70R17 as a rule of thumb, but even with those tires on aftermarket wheels you will most likely have some rubbing. Minor plastic trimming and removing the mud flaps is usually enough, but every truck is a little different and even with 265s I was ever so slightly touching my cab mount with -12 offset wheels on the stock suspension.

Make sure you read the threads on adding aftermarket or TRD Pro grilles to our newer trucks with TSS, sometimes they require modification or extra parts to make it work with the radar module behind the factory emblem.

Toppers will be like the wheels, pick one you like from any reputable brand and you'll be good to go.
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
Hello Everyone. I am new here. I have a 2018 TRD Off-road double cab LB. I am looking at doing some upgrades without having to do a lift. I am looking at changing wheels/tires, grill and adding a topper. I’m not sure what route to go on wheels. I’ve been looking at 16” VTX, 16” methods and 17” TRD Pro rims that come on the 4-runners. I have no idea how big I can go tire wise if I get 17” rims. I’m looking at getting BFG KO2 tires. Any recommendations?
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If you don't want to look like 80% of 3rd gen owners with a pro grille, I'd recommend one from customcargrilles. Mat is a good guy to work with, there's a lot of different options available from him, and he is one of the few people that has a TSS compatible grille.
 
That’s awesome. I didn’t know anyone was doing TSS compatible grilles. I was originally looking at Bay Area fab grilles but they’re not TSS Compatable
 
0uTkAsT said:
Hey man, welcome. Saw your Mattis shirt, Magpul hat and AR in the other threads... You're going to fit in great around here.

Not sure about many other Texas members yet, the majority are currently from AZ and SoCal with a smattering of everything else.

As for the wheels, it's pretty much all up to your own preference as long as you go with a good brand. Try to stick with something in the ~4.5" backspacing range for best results.

Biggest 17" tire sizes on stock suspension pretty much leaves you looking at 265/70R17 or 275/70R17 as a rule of thumb, but even with those tires on aftermarket wheels you will most likely have some rubbing. Minor plastic trimming and removing the mud flaps is usually enough, but every truck is a little different and even with 265s I was ever so slightly touching my cab mount with -12 offset wheels on the stock suspension.

Make sure you read the threads on adding aftermarket or TRD Pro grilles to our newer trucks with TSS, sometimes they require modification or extra parts to make it work with the radar module behind the factory emblem.

Toppers. will be like the wheels, pick one you like from any reputable brand and you'll be good to go.
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Awesome thanks. I was looking at the 2018 TRD Pro grille because it comes with TSS inserts for the sensor. Also I figured if I got the TRD Pro 17” wheels I wouldn’t have to worry about spacing bc they are Tacoma compatable. But it limits me on tires so idk.
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
Awesome thanks. I was looking at the 2018 TRD Pro grille because it comes with TSS inserts for the sensor. Also I figured if I got the TRD Pro 17” wheels I wouldn’t have to worry about spacing bc they are Tacoma compatable. But it limits me on tires so idk.
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I would like to do a lift at some point but I don’t want to void the warranty and I don’t want to half ass it. From what I’ve gathered just adding leveling kits is not good for the suspension and a full suspension upgrade is the way to go. I just don’t have the funds for that right now. I have to balance spending between the Taco and gun stuff.
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
I would like to do a lift at some point but I don’t want to void the warranty and I don’t want to half ass it. From what I’ve gathered just adding leveling kits is not good for the suspension and a full suspension upgrade is the way to go. I just don’t have the funds for that right now. I have to balance spending between the Taco and gun stuff.
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Smart man. Spacers and blocks do indeed suck for a number of reasons. A decent entry level suspension will run around $1,600 and up. The good stuff is easily double that, and can go much higher. Best to save up and do it right the first time based on your needs.

Your truck is pretty capable in stock form with a set of quality 32" tires and good judgement. I would suggest sliders and some aftermarket skid plates if you're wheeling at all, especially with the longer wheelbase, but there's no reason to go all out if you just stick to dirt roads and graded trails.

The TRD Pro grilles I have seen did not come with the TSS garnish and stuff by default, so just double check when you're ordering one to make sure it comes with everything you need.
 
0uTkAsT said:
Smart man. Spacers and blocks do indeed suck for a number of reasons. A decent entry level suspension will run around $1,600 and up. The good stuff is easily double that, and can go much higher. Best to save up and do it right the first time based on your needs.

Your truck is pretty capable in stock form with a set of quality 32" tires and good judgement. I would suggest sliders and some aftermarket skid plates if you're wheeling at all, especially with the longer wheelbase, but there's no reason to go all out if you just stick to dirt roads and graded trails.

The TRD Pro grilles I have seen did not come with the TSS garnish and stuff by default, so just double check when you're ordering one to make sure it comes with everything you need.
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The grilled I was looking at were from the TRD shop online. I’ve been considering rock sliders as well bc I’ve already dented the bottom of my truck a little lol. Any recommendations on rock sliders and skid plates? Is the TRD Pro skid plate worth looking into?
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
The grilled I was looking at were from the TRD shop online. I’ve been considering rock sliders as well bc I’ve already dented the bottom of my truck a little lol. Any recommendations on rock sliders and skid plates? Is the TRD Pro skid plate worth looking into?
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The TRD Pro plates are definitely better than the tin foil BS that comes on our trucks stock, but I'm not sure what they cost compared to aftermarket options, which you can take a look at here: https://tacoma3g.com/threads/skid-plate-cost-comparison.961/

And here's a great thread on sliders: https://tacoma3g.com/threads/slider-cost-comparison.866/
 
0uTkAsT said:
The TRD Pro plates are definitely better than the tin foil BS that comes on our trucks stock, but I'm not sure what they cost compared to aftermarket options, which you can take a look at here: https://tacoma3g.com/threads/skid-plate-cost-comparison.961/

And here's a great thread on sliders: https://tacoma3g.com/threads/slider-cost-comparison.866/
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I’m guessing bolt on bolts to the body like nerf bars? Do weld on’s get welded to the frame or bolted to the frame?
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
I’m guessing bolt on bolts to the body like nerf bars? Do weld on’s get welded to the frame or bolted to the frame?
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Bolt-ons bolt to the frame and are the most popular choice. Weld-ons are welded to the frame, which is great except they're by all intents and purposes permanent and will void any rust protection warranty you have on your frame (although the cab mount chop will potentially do this also, so it may be a moot point).

Avid Off Road is the only company I know of who offers a hybrid slider/step bar that attaches to the body, but they also offer regular heavy duty bolt-to-frame and weld-to-frame versions also.

You don't want anything that bolts to the body if there's a chance they will take a big hit or need to support the weight of the truck.
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
I’m guessing bolt on bolts to the body like nerf bars? Do weld on’s get welded to the frame or bolted to the frame?
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It varies by manufacturer, but essentially yes. Bolt on means they should go right on. The welded versions are welded on. Not so easy to remove, when and/or if that time comes. For example, if you wanted to paint or powder coat down the road.

And welcome aboard.
 
0uTkAsT said:
Bolt-ons bolt to the frame and are the most popular choice. Weld-ons are welded to the frame, which is great except they're by all intents and purposes permanent and will void any rust protection warranty you have on your frame (although the cab mount chop will potentially do this also, so it may be a moot point).

Avid Off Road is the only company I know of who offers a hybrid slider/step bar that attaches to the body, but they also offer regular heavy duty bolt-to-frame and weld-to-frame versions also.

You don't want anything that bolts to the body if there's a chance they will take a big hit or need to support the weight of the truck.
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Ya I didn’t want anything that bolts to the body, that’s why I took my steps off. But if bolt on’s bolt to the frame I’m good to go with that
 
Moderndaycrusader 2016 said:
Ya I didn’t want anything that bolts to the body, that’s why I took my steps off. But if bolt on’s bolt to the frame I’m good to go with that
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Correct, all bolt-on sliders bolt to the frame except for the one version that Avid calls a "slider step".
 
Anyone know if I can stuff an 18” wheel with 275/70s (33s) on stock suspension/stock height? Looking at the tire calculator it seems possible. Maybe with a cmc or a spacer?
 
TacoDave said:
Anyone know if I can stuff an 18” wheel with 275/70s (33s) on stock suspension/stock height? Looking at the tire calculator it seems possible. Maybe with a cmc or a spacer?
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Not likely. Depending on the offset of the wheel they will probably rub plastics and cab mount at lock, and everywhere else if you ever leave the pavement. My 32" tires scrub the top of the fenderwell at full compression, touched the cab mount and required cutting the flares, pounding the pinch weld and all sorts of things. None of it is really a big deal, but you are talking about tires that are not only taller but also wider.
 
0uTkAsT said:
Not likely. Depending on the offset of the wheel they will probably rub plastics and cab mount at lock, and everywhere else if you ever leave the pavement. My 32" tires scrub the top of the fenderwell at full compression, touched the cab mount and required cutting the flares, pounding the pinch weld and all sorts of things. None of it is really a big deal, but you are talking about tires that are not only taller but also wider.
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I’m thinking spacers & cmc would help the width out. Don’t mind doing some pounding the pinch weld either.
However I could also just store the wheels & tires til I get the lift. A window opened & it gave me the opportunity to get the wheels & tires already
 
TacoDave said:
I’m thinking spacers & cmc would help the width out. Don’t mind doing some pounding the pinch weld either.
However I could also just store the wheels & tires til I get the lift. A window opened & it gave me the opportunity to get the wheels & tires already
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If you're talking about wheel spacers, they actually cause more rubbing in most cases. I would just wait until you are lifted to avoid the headaches if you can, but if you are not afraid of aggressive cutting and trimming it might work to your benefit in the end because you will know exactly where they rub. And if you fix the rubbing on stock suspension, you will definitely never rub again after you are lifted. Just depends on how you look at it and if you are patient enough to sit on a brand new set of wheels and tires or not haha
 
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