Hey @Tyler, yeah I have the same problem. Long bed life man! I usually have to roll in an S pattern for about 10-15 feet before it'll fully engage.
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- Thread starter Tyler
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All right, here we go:
I want to add the TRD intake flow accelerator, and I want to change the intake tube only (from throttle body to stock airbox). The stock airbox itself is very efficient at drawing in cold air, and I want to keep that. I want to smooth out the flow from the box to the TB by getting rid of the resonator box. Does anyone sell a 3rd gen specific intake tube?
I want to add the TRD intake flow accelerator, and I want to change the intake tube only (from throttle body to stock airbox). The stock airbox itself is very efficient at drawing in cold air, and I want to keep that. I want to smooth out the flow from the box to the TB by getting rid of the resonator box. Does anyone sell a 3rd gen specific intake tube?
The TRD bellows, + coupler + intake tube (which also has a resonator box) comes to 151.20 pre shipping. Yeah, the HPS tube is a bit expensive for sure.... But dat red do
Yeah so if I'm not mistaken you'd just need PTR03-35160-AA (lid), PTR03-35160-AB (tube), PTR03-35160-AC (throttle body coupler kit), PTR03-35160-AD (bellows kit) since you already have a filter and PTR03-35160-AE (inlet horn)... all of which is probably attainable for less than the $170 HPS is asking for their tube kit.
Not gonna lie, HPS makes nice stuff and their kit looks good but I'd only buy it if it came in at around $70-80. Used intakes for these trucks are a dime a dozen for $250 so I can't justify spending $170 on a tube and another $80 on a drop-in filter to achieve virtually the same result.
Personally, I'm just installing an AFE drop-in filter and taking out the carbon filter on this new truck. I had the whole Stage 2 AFE intake on my last 3rd Gen and hated it.
Not gonna lie, HPS makes nice stuff and their kit looks good but I'd only buy it if it came in at around $70-80. Used intakes for these trucks are a dime a dozen for $250 so I can't justify spending $170 on a tube and another $80 on a drop-in filter to achieve virtually the same result.
Personally, I'm just installing an AFE drop-in filter and taking out the carbon filter on this new truck. I had the whole Stage 2 AFE intake on my last 3rd Gen and hated it.
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I'm not changing from OEM paper filter. I can't justify $170 for something that is only going to boost sound. LOL. I may just buy an acura integra tube and cut it.....
MaverickTRD
4️⃣ Gold
Only if the alignment shop is unable to dial in the caster or you find yourself wanting a bit more suspension travel. That's all it's for.
Or if you wanna run uniballs instead of ball joints, however that comes with more frequent service and potential noises
It can cause premature wheel bearing failure but a lot of people run them without apparent issue
Do you hear knocking while Offroad, going over rocks, or speed bumps? If the answer is yes then get UCA’s
Can a shop not get a complete alignment for camber? If yes then get UCA’s
They arent necessary if you answer no, but it never hurts to replace them in the future for more durable/stronger one.
The Tacoma is wide enough for anything you’re attempting, clearance is more an issue than anything. Wheel spacers should be avoided du to the change In weight distribution to the hub/bearing and change in geometry. This can result in premature failure of your bearing.
That being said it’s advised to go with a true hub centric spacer from a company such as spyderco due to the build and material used from said companies. Avoid lug centric.
Dirt and grime can get trapped in between the leaf packs which over time can cause the squeek, you really have to just live with it because there’s no way to really eliminate this.
My 1986 Chevy and all other trucks I’ve had never squeaked. I’m gonna narrow down the exact source of the squeak and see what I can do.
The answer is adding liners or isolators. For a cheap DIY fix you can do the heavy duty zip tie mod plus white lithium grease, or for a better, more permanent solution, disassemble the leaf packs and add these liners between each leaf:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Leaf-Spring-Liner-with-Lip-2-1-4-Inch,39823.html
Or drill holes and install a more OEM-style isolator, something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...xvtFwtwVYWTZsTNYaWFWKDHdTKwLQdLhoC02gQAvD_BwE
@Tyler
Here are pics of my temporary zip-tie mod I did to mine on the last truck. They lasted about 25,000 miles before the first ones started breaking, but even after they broke, the remnants stayed in place under pressure and continued to work. You can also see the white lithium grease. Not saying it's the proper solution, but it's a solution:
Here are pics of my temporary zip-tie mod I did to mine on the last truck. They lasted about 25,000 miles before the first ones started breaking, but even after they broke, the remnants stayed in place under pressure and continued to work. You can also see the white lithium grease. Not saying it's the proper solution, but it's a solution:
Thank you
I honestly feel this should be done the day you pickuo truck from dealer. Its hands down my best thing ive done to truck
I just pulled the stock air filter and replaced it with a K&N Panel. IDK if i feel any different, but I'll just keep telling myself it was a good investment.
There are a few plugs in back wall behing cubbies
MarlaTheWarthog
2️⃣ Bronze
Thanks Tyler! 5100s front and rear. Guess i’ll be looking into coils and AAL then.
FYI, the lift wont help you clear 285s off road. You need to do a cab mount chop to make 285s not rub when stuffed.
Yes they will
90%sure
90%sure
Roger. Trying to sell my stockers to a guy with an SR.
If he has OEM steel wheels, then no. If he has OEM alloys, then yes.
Correct. Lugs that came with alloy wheels will work on steelies (or else you couldn’t use the spare) but you can’t use lugs that came on steel wheels on alloys.
The douche told me the tire shop told him they wouldn’t recommend it, so he bailed.
I pulled the damn tire off for him b/c he had a back issue and put the OR wheel and tire on and it seemed like the studs where a little short but with the right lug it would work.
I pulled the damn tire off for him b/c he had a back issue and put the OR wheel and tire on and it seemed like the studs where a little short but with the right lug it would work.
Just because it has the same thread pitch it doesn’t mean it will work. The OEM alloy wheels use a flat or mag type seat lug nut whereas the steelies use a conical seat. The alloy OEM lugs do have a conical seat at the tip of the nut so you can use the steel spare without any issues. Using a standard acorn or conical seat lug on the OEM alloys would not work.
OK, but isn't it a matter of buying new lug nuts, which you can get on Amazon for $25 or less? You don't need new studs?
Just lugnuts.