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Thoughts on Hammer Hangers shackle hangers?

UploadAdventure said:
So, I temporarily “borrowed” @ARCHIVE design until his leaf pack is available (yey for product testing) and I welded a cross tube in between the OEM hangers until I can get the hammer hangers on.

I noticed a difference right away.
Also. Never ever been caught on anything.
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Hh would probably double or triple the difference you felt. I credit a cross bar that bolts to the stock hanger shackle bolts to Mike who was Defined Eng, it can make a difference in ride and better handling, but I have a customer who stilled bent his hangers with the Defined bar. The point being the stock hangers are very poor
On Instagram: @go.for.broke_overland
Redsyota-defined1.jpg
Redsyota-defined2.jpg
 
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ARCHIVE said:
Hh would probably double or triple the difference you felt. I credit a cross bar that bolts to stock hanger bolts to Mike who was Defined Eng, it can make a difference in ride and better handling, but I have a customer who stilled bent his hangers with the defined bar.
On Instagram: @go.for.broke_overland
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I'm sure I missed something, but the tube in the photos is not yours, is it? This looks like a portal axle style tube, whereas I thought yours is straight across?
 
Tyler said:
I'm sure I missed something, but the tube in the photos is not yours, is it? This looks like a portal axle style tube, whereas I thought yours is straight across?
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That is the Defined engineering bar, before he replaced those hangers with Archive Shackle Flip, he wanted max ground clearance.

Before anyone asks, I recommend the Hammer hangers over shackle flip, as Hh are better at ride quality, corner handling, weight handling, without adding much if any lift, and no compromises. The only time I recommend shackle flip over Hh is on a rock crawling truck that is lightweight, due to ground clearance, but Hh take rock abuse in stride as well.
 
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Tyler said:
I didn't know about that one. What are your thoughts on the portal style?
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I don't like it, see post #40,42. On the Defined bar, where it bolts to shackle bolt is a few inches lower than my straight tube.
 
ARCHIVE said:
Hh would probably double or triple the difference you felt. I credit a cross bar that bolts to the stock hanger shackle bolts to Mike who was Defined Eng, it can make a difference in ride and better handling, but I have a customer who stilled bent his hangers with the Defined bar. The point being the stock hangers are very poor
On Instagram: @go.for.broke_overland
View attachment 21279View attachment 21280
Click to expand...
Oh yeah.
I’m not keeping them forever. Just waiting for those springs to get tested and going to try to not cry as I buy them all at once.
 
I plan on going with the HH, 3.6 shackle, and crossbar. I would like to do the U bolt flip kit as well. What I don’t know about is bump stops, or which are the best options to go with. I run Bilstein 8100’s in the rear with ICON RXT leaf pack at stage 2. I don’t want to limit my travel but also wanna protect my suspension. Considering hydro bumps as well but I wouldn’t know where to begin as far as height adjustment on them. I was wondering what your recommendation would be @ARCHIVE?

Thanks for the help!

Making it more confusing I was reading the specs on the 8100 shocks and saw this.
972A305D-7DF9-4328-A298-4D3C51C0B8E9.webp
 
Hunter399 said:
I plan on going with the HH, 3.6 shackle, and crossbar. I would like to do the U bolt flip kit as well. What I don’t know about is bump stops, or which are the best options to go with. I run Bilstein 8100’s in the rear with ICON RXT leaf pack at stage 2. I don’t want to limit my travel but also wanna protect my suspension. Considering hydro bumps as well but I wouldn’t know where to begin as far as height adjustment on them. I was wondering what your recommendation would be @ARCHIVE?

Thanks for the help!

Making it more confusing I was reading the specs on the 8100 shocks and saw this.
View attachment 21427
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I recommend the Hh + cross tube, the 3.6 shackles are optional, but not required for your 8100 shocks, you would be fine reusing stock shackles.

On the midtravel Tacomas (10"-12" rear shocks), I recommend using a foam bumpstop. My U-bolt flip kit Option 3 is the brand new Archive designed Speed bumps, and achieve a nice soft engagement, and conserve bump travel, having as much as possible. I tested these on my 1g Tundra loaded with 1000lbs and a light leaf pack (pictured below), really happy with performance. Note how my bumps are held down with (2) 3/8" bolts versus the spindly screws of the other guy. Mine are also removable without removing the U-bolts should you need, Durobumps are not, plus his U-bolt plate has a huge hole in the middle possibly allowing slipping or misalignment, no OE manufacturer does that.

Your 8100's have a compression zone that ramps up damping force to slow the shock compression after that point

UBF-001option3B.jpg
 
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ARCHIVE said:
I recommend the Hh + cross tube, the 3.6 shackles are optional, but not required for your 8100 shocks, you would be fine reusing stock shackles.

On the midtravel Tacomas (10"-12" rear shocks), I recommend using a foam bumpstop. My U-bolt flip kit Option 3 is the brand new Archive designed Speed bumps, and achieve a nice soft engagement, and conserve bump travel, having as much as possible. I tested these on my 1g Tundra loaded with 1000lbs and a light leaf pack (pictured below), really happy with performance. Note how my bumps are held down with (2) 3/8" bolts versus the spindly screws of the other guy. Mine are also removable without removing the U-bolts should you need, Durobumps are not, plus his U-bolt plate has a huge hole in the middle possibly allowing slipping or misalignment, no OE manufacturer does that.

Your 8100's have a compression zone that ramps up damping force to slow the shock compression after that point

View attachment 21462
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Thanks for the detailed and quick response that helps a lot! I was just gonna do the shackle replacement while I was in there because I like the ability to oil them. The roads where I live with the salt and corrosion are brutal! Looks like I will be going with one of your ubolt flip and bump options as well! Just to clarify the 3.6 shackle is ok with the 8100’s as an upgraded option?
 
Hunter399 said:
Thanks for the detailed and quick response that helps a lot! I was just gonna do the shackle replacement while I was in there because I like the ability to oil them. The roads where I live with the salt and corrosion are brutal! Looks like I will be going with one of your ubolt flip and bump options as well! Just to clarify the 3.6 shackle is ok with the 8100’s as an upgraded option?
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Yes, stock is 3.4, so 3.6 is nearly same length.
I live in NY so I have the same salt and corrosion to deal with, all my stuff is built and coated to deal with it for several years
 
ARCHIVE said:
Yes, stock is 3.4, so 3.6 is nearly same length.
I live in NY so I have the same salt and corrosion to deal with, all my stuff is built and coated to deal with it for several years
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Thanks again! HH’s, 3.6 shackles, crossbar, and ubolt flip kit ordered! Look forward to the upgrade!
 
@ARCHIVE how much extra droop is added again? I worry with my shock being a mid travel shock that’s kinda finicky getting damaged over time from it being the limiting factor?
 
Any suggestions for break lines? From what I can tell my rear lines will be stretched out pretty good with the lift and the new hangers
 
Hunter399 said:
@ARCHIVE how much extra droop is added again? I worry with my shock being a mid travel shock that’s kinda finicky getting damaged over time from it being the limiting factor?
Click to expand...

Hh can extend droop to use 12" shocks (with shock relocation)

I think it is a valid concern even with stock hangers in the event you knowingly or accidentally get some air.
But during crawling the axle is moving slowly and should not be possible to damage shocks.
The best setup is having droop limited only by limit straps, not relying on the spring to do that.

Straps are inexpensive and really need to become part of every offroad Tacoma build, Archive will offer a solution soon
 
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ARCHIVE said:
Hh can extend droop to use 12" shocks (with shock relocation)

I think it is a valid concern even with stock hangers in the event you knowingly or accidentally get some air.
But during crawling the axle is moving slowly and should not be possible to damage shocks.
The best setup is having droop limited only by limit straps, not relying on the spring to do that.

Straps are inexpensive and really need to become part of every offroad Tacoma build, Archive will offer a solution soon
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help!
 
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