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Thoughts on Hammer Hangers shackle hangers?

JerryTaco2.0 said:
I need to get on board and get these on my truck. Been on the list, just have not pulled the trigger
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Well its nice to read some positive remarks on my product. Base price is $400, but now for 3G members, I offer a 5% ($20+) discount, dropping it to $380 shipped. Please start a conversation to get the code before you buy, its annoying to do discount refunds. I do this to reward actual members, not lurkers.
https://archivegarage.com/explore-archive?olsPage=products/tacoma-hammer-hangers

PLEASE WATCH THE VIDEO before asking questions, I get pretty detailed, many questions are answered, but after that I am happy to help with setup questions.

The most critical part of Hh system is the hangers themselves, then the cross tube, then shackles. You are totally fine to use the stock shackles with SOA springs and add poly bushings. With SUA, the 4.5" shackles become required.

Original link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iSQXn6nr24
 

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Nice how long did it take to arrive? I was going to order mine but the suspension goes on next week and I didn't think I'd be able to get them in time. Was going to order them and put them on after my roadtrip in April

53ETACO said:
Just got mine today! Thanks @ARCHIVE will be installing on Saturday will post pictures! I like the idea of the crossbar but don’t have another location for the spare currently so I want to leave that there.
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midnight20pro said:
Nice how long did it take to arrive? I was going to order mine but the suspension goes on next week and I didn't think I'd be able to get them in time. Was going to order them and put them on after my roadtrip in April
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It took about 30 days as accurately advertised on their site, definitely worth it though, these things are SOLID.
 
WarFabArmor said:
If you do the crossbar, tie it into the factory frame cross member to really strengthen the setup. Just going across transfers the load to the other side and only adds a little bit of rigidity. Tying into the top forces it to try to move more solid pieces than leverage the shackle mounts that are already hanging below and easier to move. As far as SUA it is generally the idealistic spring setup for longevity and overall suspension dynamics. However once you start getting very heavy you are putting a lot of stress on the u-bolts holding the load to the axle because the suspension is not pushing down on the axle.
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I beg to differ. I have been a mechanical designer since 2002, designing severe duty oil drilling equipment, before starting Archive.

The springs are trying to rotate the frame rails outward, bending the stock X-brace. The Archive cross tube being straight is virtually in perfect tension, basically no bending force on the cross tube.

Also, have you ever seen a crooked torsion bar for a front control arm? No, they are nearly always straight. The cross tube can transmit torsion from 1 hanger to the other, which lets both frame rails deal with the stress of dragging 1 hanger, lessening the chance of bending a frame rail.

These are the reasons why what you're describing isn't as good as a straight tube.
 
ARCHIVE said:
I beg to differ. I have been a mechanical designer since 2002, designing severe duty oil drilling equipment, before starting Archive.

The springs are trying to rotate the frame rails outward, bending the stock X-brace. The Archive cross tube being straight is virtually in perfect tension, basically no bending force on the cross tube.

Also, have you ever seen a crooked torsion bar for a front control arm? No, they are nearly always straight. The cross tube can transmit torsion from 1 hanger to the other, which lets both frame rails deal with the stress of dragging 1 hanger, lessening the chance of bending a frame rail.

These are the reasons why what you're describing isn't as good as a straight tube.
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what? The entire point of building a solid rig is to keep it rigid. You don't want moving parts twisting and changing while the suspension moves. The idea that you want the left side moving differently than the right side is just plain wrong. Please show me, relevant to the topic aka chassis, where you want to have slack between the different sides of the chassis. The only somewhat relevant argument to that would be heavy haul rigs where the torque load is better served in a semi torsionable frame to prevent the frame from bending and staying.
In a stock application the slight twist in the frame is acceptable however the vehicles being discussed are not applicable to the factory mentality. Hanging off more weight, more travel, more rotation and torsional load means that things need to be adjusted for that. Increasing twist and load on the frame only fatigues and creates the ability to weaken the material.

ETA:
I am not saying only go upand run the angled piece, I am saying run the straight bar and also tie in the factory x brace. I am not sure if you are thinking I mean only run an angled/bent bar, and thats where your statement comes from? But I am saying, run a var across, but tie in to the subframe there, be it an addition bent bar, or however it is intended to be made/installed.
 
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WarFabArmor said:
what? The entire point of building a solid rig is to keep it rigid. You don't want moving parts twisting and changing while the suspension moves. The idea that you want the left side moving differently than the right side is just plain wrong. Please show me, relevant to the topic aka chassis, where you want to have slack between the different sides of the chassis. The only somewhat relevant argument to that would be heavy haul rigs where the torque load is better served in a semi torsionable frame to prevent the frame from bending and staying.
In a stock application the slight twist in the frame is acceptable however the vehicles being discussed are not applicable to the factory mentality. Hanging off more weight, more travel, more rotation and torsional load means that things need to be adjusted for that. Increasing twist and load on the frame only fatigues and creates the ability to weaken the material.

ETA:
I am not saying only go upand run the angled piece, I am saying run the straight bar and also tie in the factory x brace. I am not sure if you are thinking I mean only run an angled/bent bar, and thats where your statement comes from? But I am saying, run a var across, but tie in to the subframe there, be it an addition bent bar, or however it is intended to be made/installed.
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You misunderstood what I said. By my saying that the cross tube transmits torsion from 1 hanger to the other is saying I want the hangers to stay in exact relation to each other.

And my straight cross tube perfectly locks out the frame rails from splaying out when viewed from the rear.
 
ARCHIVE said:
You misunderstood what I said. By my saying that the cross tube transmits torsion from 1 hanger to the other is saying I want the hangers to stay in exact relation to each other.

And my straight cross tube perfectly locks out the frame rails from splaying out when viewed from the rear.
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Ok, I get what you are trying to say now. I dont agree with trusting the hardware more than additional bracing to subframe, or why you are under the impression that bracing is adverse to the ideal outcome. But whatever.
 
WarFabArmor said:
Ok, I get what you are trying to say now. I dont agree with trusting the hardware more than additional bracing to subframe, or why you are under the impression that bracing is adverse to the ideal outcome. But whatever.
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I use 1/2"-13 grade 8 bolts, with ~12,500 lbs each of clamping force in tension when torqued to 80 lb-ft as per my instructions. Also I am not against the idea of additional bracing, but it would make parts more expensive to customer, shipping a bunch more, and potential production issues trying to make it fit a million different Tacomas with possible frame damage. "I have spoken" haha
 
@ARCHIVE you guys ever hear about anyone hanging up on obstacles with the crossbar? Does it prevent you from storing the spare in the factory location?
 
This is next on the list of mods. Several buddies already run it and have positive things to say.

However, this is becoming a rabbits hole for me. In addition to the hangers, I may as well change my leafs (Dakar to Deavers), install extended shock mounts, but longer rear smoothie shocks and revalve the entire suspension.

oh boy...
 
PNWTacoma said:
This is next on the list of mods. Several buddies already run it and have positive things to say.

However, this is becoming a rabbits hole for me. In addition to the hangers, I may as well change my leafs (Dakar to Deavers), install extended shock mounts, but longer rear smoothie shocks and revalve the entire suspension.

oh boy...
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That's basically the exact conundrum in in right now. ???‍♂️
 
nickyreno said:
@ARCHIVE you guys ever hear about anyone hanging up on obstacles with the crossbar? Does it prevent you from storing the spare in the factory location?
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Not a single person has mentioned it, and hundreds of people have the cross tube. In my opinion, its something people tend to think without seeing the setup in person.
Midnight is correct, the cross tube requires spare to be relocated
 
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ARCHIVE said:
At least you have Dobinsons springs though, I like those way better than Dakars which are pretty bad IMO
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Sadly, no. I have Dakars ?. It's on the list to replace with the rear suspension. Still trying to decide what brand springs to go with.
 
ARCHIVE said:
Not a single person has mentioned it, and hundreds of people have the cross tube. In my opinion, its something people tend to think without seeing the setup in person.
Midnight is correct, the cross tube requires spare to be relocated
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So, I temporarily “borrowed” @ARCHIVE design until his leaf pack is available (yey for product testing) and I welded a cross tube in between the OEM hangers until I can get the hammer hangers on.

I noticed a difference right away.
Also. Never ever been caught on anything.
 
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