Winch access holes allow you access your winch mainly the neutral lever and have access to your solonoid if need be
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- Thread starter Tyler
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I don't really know much about winches, but I assume you want quick access to these? or can they be accessed through the engine bay or underneath?
Yes, and yes you do need a access point as the grill assembly and bumper would block majority of the winch
To unspool your winch for instance you need to put the lever normally on the right into neutral, also a lot of external remotes need to plug in, unless you wire in cab winch controls.
I guess it dependable on the situation, personally I want winch controls easily accessible, if I’m in a tough situation I want to winch out of the last thing I want to worry about is reaching the controls.
I guess it dependable on the situation, personally I want winch controls easily accessible, if I’m in a tough situation I want to winch out of the last thing I want to worry about is reaching the controls.
@tomtaylz gotcha. Makes sense. Thanks! I guess I'll have to dig a little deeper into the winches, and maybe find one that I will plan on buying to plan for it. I don't plan on going on anything too difficult that I might be terribly stuck. I'm a real big fan of a clean look up front I think without the access holes look cleaner. That's just me. ?
Better value is up to you. Personally I would avoid a block lift at all costs. It doesn't increase the capability of your suspension at all and could lead to other problems down the road, if you offroad it. An add a leaf in the rear is a better option if you want to keep costs low. The 5100shocks will definitely be an improvement over stock.
The fishing line method works great, but after that you're left with the goo. Before you start head to an auto paint store or try Amazon for a rubber eraser style wheel for the end of a drill. Eats the goo off the paint in minutes and doesn't harm the clear coat.
Snatch straps and tow straps are entirely different. Snatch straps are designed to stretch and absorb then transfer the dynamic load of a snatch recovery to the vehicle being recovered.
Tow straps are not designed to take the impact of a dynamic recovery and may fail of used that way. The are designed for non impact tow operations.
I carry a snatch strap and it has been quite handy and I have used it for both snatch and non impact tow recoveries.
1. For your weight and tire size 4.88 will likely work great. If you did go with a bigger tires I'd go 5.29. Which is where I'm headed.
2. I'd go with an add a lift on the rear. You'll get the small level you want to support the shell while increasing the shock length travel permitted. If you add a block, you won't be taking full advantage of any shock upgrades.
3. OVTune entirely reprograms the shift logic of the truck. It's not perfect but it's way better than stock. Way better. And Mat (the owner of OVTune) is constantly making improvement to the programming. Shift Sense Pro is designed to increase the transmission of, and the reaction speeds of the inputs communicated from the pedal to the transmission. All it does is speed up the process. Which for some is exactly what they want. The shift logic remains the same as before, but the speed at which the transmission reacts to your inputs is increased.
@Mr. Nobody doing work this morning with these replies. 
nice job! You're awesome!
nice job! You're awesome!
Any recommendations on brand or length?
I’m looking at putting together a complete tool kit to keep in the truck. I’ve searched around the forum and can’t seem to find a thread, if there is one can someone point me in the correct direction, if not I can start a thread so we can get everyone’s input on tools they carry down trail
Any rated straps will work fine. I have a 30' Smittybilt, but there's plenty of others.
I don't think we have a thread like that. Would definitely be a good one to start. You could make a what's in your tool kit post. It could be quite handy for others.
I just keep a cheap harbor freight toolkit in my back seat. I’d probably add a breaker bar too if I wheeled Hard. But I used That little kit to put my rock sliders on the my tonneau cover and lights and light bars too. Harbor freights the way to go for stuff like that
Harbor freight hand tools are awesome, power tools....not so much
Yeah power tools I gotta Go with Milwaukee. And anything with impact like chisels I’ll spend the extra money on for something good. But for the truck I got the 99 piece kit that was like 30 bucks or around there
I like this idea.
Up until i bought my 19 Taco in April I had never been involved or even been in a 4x4 vehicle.
2 Noob questions.
1- What is the purpose of a snorkel in any truck?
2- What is a locker and how do you use it? I've read the terms "air locker", "electric/electronic locker", "mechanical locker"??
Thanks.
2 Noob questions.
1- What is the purpose of a snorkel in any truck?
2- What is a locker and how do you use it? I've read the terms "air locker", "electric/electronic locker", "mechanical locker"??
Thanks.
Up until i bought my 19 Taco in April I had never been involved or even been in a 4x4 vehicle.
2 Noob questions.
1- What is the purpose of a snorkel in any truck?
2- What is a locker and how do you use it? I've read the terms "air locker", "electric/electronic locker", "mechanical locker"??
Thanks.
The factory Tacoma draws air from in the fender well, so when offroad that air can be very dusty. This can lead to issues of shorter filter life and the potential for dirt getting into the engine.
So a snorkel's primary purpose is to raise the location that the truck draws air into the filter system to a higher point. This allows the truck to "breathe cleaner." Many people think the snorkel is for driving through deep water, and while yes it may help in that situation, be aware that some snorkels aren't as sealed as others and may not be providing the snorkel effect you are looking for in that situation.
A locker is a traction control system that "locks" the two wheels on the same axle to spin at the same rate. This allows both tires to grip better in slippery situations. An unlocked differential will allow power to be transferred to the wheel on the axle with the least amount of traction. Meaning if the rear axle of your truck comes off the ground there is a chance the one tire in the air will do all the spinning and the tire on the ground will just stop. The locker makes it so when the tire in the air is up the tire that remains on the ground will still receive power and therefore still be able to push or pull the truck.
An air locker is just a locker that uses air pressure to activate the locker system. Air lockers are usually aftermarket. The 3rd gen Tacoma has the option for an electronic locker or e-locker. It basically uses an electric current to activate the locker inside the rear differential.
The locker in the 3rd gen can only (from the factory) be used when in 4wd and in low range (4lo). Refer to your owners manual for the specifics on how to engage and disengage, but I will say it's a good idea to go find some easy to drive dirt and practice how to get the truck in and out of 4lo and activate the locker per the manual before you are on the trail stuck at a crazy angle trying to figure out how to use it.
Clear and to the point. Now I understand, thanks for taking the time to answer/educate fellow forum members.
Adookin_trd
1️⃣ Getting Started...
I’m looking to upgrade my Fogs with Baja Designs SAE but I’m worried it will blind other drivers on the road since my fogs are higher than stock due to my 3” lift. Has anyone experienced any issues with upgrading their fogs on a lifted Tacoma?
Depending on which lenses you use, and ensuring they are adjusted properly you may actually be fine considering the fogs are SAE approved for use on the street. I have the non SAE versions. I use them off road for visibility to other vehicles in dusty conditions and I have driven back onto pavement into town and forgot they were on multiple times. I have yet to be high beamed back.
As a general rule it's good and courteous to only use fogs when the situation dictates their need. By even asking you are already showing more regard than many.
I'd make sure they are installed and aimed properly and use them when needed and you'll likely be fine.
trapHOUZZZ
2️⃣ Bronze
My truck has a ceramic coating on the paint. If I remove the bed-side decals, will it be obvious there’s no ceramic coat? Do I need to get it redone at that point? She’s already covered in pinstripes so I don’t think that’s the answer. Trying to determine if there will be an obvious rectangle where the decals once were.
I'm honestly not sure if you'll have the outline of the sticker in the ceramic coating. I'd call the place you got it done and see what they say.
Not sure. I don't know if the factory SR5 harness has the wiring for the LEDs.
mcm808
4️⃣ Gold
I can ask my friend who does professional auto detailing and ceramic coating and get back to you
I would venture to guess that the SR harness is terminated at where the LEDs would plug in. Most mfg'ers make one harness and terminate them on vehicles that dont have those options. It would be cost prohibitive to make a variety of harness' for different trim levels. At least thats what I have seen over the years.
mcm808
4️⃣ Gold
I talked to my friend about your query. He said that you would be able to tell where the stickers were...especailly when its wet. He said when its dry and clean, you would most likely need to be looking for it to see it, but if its dirty or wet, easily noticeable. Hope that helps somehow.