Takotruck
4️⃣ Gold
I’m going to gas because of the side wall height they can’t because the tire would either pop off the bead or fail.
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Pizza Cutter MT Shootout - Officially Over. No Rubbing!
- Thread starter 406Camper
- Start date
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- wheels / tires
I don't know. But the size is common for dually trucks so they'd have no use for a P tire. But also, a P tire would be a bad choice for off road or any situation where you air down, so it wouldn't make sense to make a mud tire or AT tire like that.
Takotruck
4️⃣ Gold
I’m not gonna agree with you on airing down in an SL being a problem. I do it all the time and my method wheels have a beadlock design I have yet to worry about it. You don’t need to be E rated to air down. That is a myth..
It's not the bead retention that's the hazard with airing down a passenger car tire, it's the puncture resistance. But if you're happy with that then great. Even with P tires you shouldn't have bead retention problems until you get down to pressures you'd probably never want to run.
Do you have the trail series Methods? Or just the ones with the "bead look" ring? I've actually changed my mind on the fake beadlock rings after scratching up my 703s. A sacrificial ring protector would be great.
-M
Takotruck
4️⃣ Gold
701 | Matte Black
The 701 Bead Grip® wheel was designed to be the perfect wheel for overland enthusiasts. The Bead Grip® technology allows deflation of tires down to pressures that previously would have required beadlock wheels to make sure tires didn’t debead. It’s advantageous to reduce tire inflation pressure...
www.methodracewheels.com
Yeah, those are great!701 | Matte Black
The 701 Bead Grip® wheel was designed to be the perfect wheel for overland enthusiasts. The Bead Grip® technology allows deflation of tires down to pressures that previously would have required beadlock wheels to make sure tires didn’t debead. It’s advantageous to reduce tire inflation pressure...
Update:
So the Toyo MT's rub on the CM, and I am going to have to return them for Yoko MT's which are 1/4" smaller. On the bright side they are lighter (only 55 lbs.). We'll see how Discount Tire handles this.
So the Toyo MT's rub on the CM, and I am going to have to return them for Yoko MT's which are 1/4" smaller. On the bright side they are lighter (only 55 lbs.). We'll see how Discount Tire handles this.
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I did a quick search. Looks like 275/65 R18 is a 32" tire that comes in P Metric casing. I think some of the bigger SUVs or half ton trucks are running 18" and 20" wheels so there might be more options in those sizes.
I run E rated on my mid size Tacoma and 4Runner, but I make up for it by wearing flip flops when I rotate the tires.
-M
Looks like the biggest Nomas Grappler is 31.5: Nomad Grappler | Nitto Tire (https://www.nittotire.com/suv-cuv-tires/nomad-grappler-crossover-terrain-tire/)
And if I'm reading the chart right, the Terra Grappler comes in 185/70 17 in a non LT casing: Terra Grappler G2 | Nitto Tire (https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/terra-grappler-g2-all-terrain-light-truck-tire/)
-M
And if I'm reading the chart right, the Terra Grappler comes in 185/70 17 in a non LT casing: Terra Grappler G2 | Nitto Tire (https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/terra-grappler-g2-all-terrain-light-truck-tire/)
-M
E rated wont hurt a midsize. I have 40k on Es and have wheeled the shit out of them. Not only do they increase your payload but they also offer more sidewall protection. Air them to a reasonable pressure for road use and you'll barely notice you have a more stout tire. I run mine between 35 and 40psi. No uneven wear and cushy ride. Aired down at 15 to 20psi that E rated sidewall is a nice insurance policy
I did notice that my new Yoko MTs sit a little more narrow than my Coopers did mounted on my Black Rhino wheels. I know you're running factory wheels but that might help you if they agree to return them.
Update:
Well the shootout is over. Props to Discount Tire, as they were willing to exchange the Toyo's for Yoko's, but like everything else in the market the Yoko's are on unknown backorder status. So, I will work with what I have. The main issue I have discovered is the OEM wheels have -25 offset. If I go with 0 offset wheels then I shouldn't have the problem. I also still have about a half inch of thread left in the coilovers to work with. So I am going to install my beefy WKO Rocksliders next week and then try cranking up the coilover. If that doesn't work, I am going to purchase some 0 offset wheels. More to follow.
Well the shootout is over. Props to Discount Tire, as they were willing to exchange the Toyo's for Yoko's, but like everything else in the market the Yoko's are on unknown backorder status. So, I will work with what I have. The main issue I have discovered is the OEM wheels have -25 offset. If I go with 0 offset wheels then I shouldn't have the problem. I also still have about a half inch of thread left in the coilovers to work with. So I am going to install my beefy WKO Rocksliders next week and then try cranking up the coilover. If that doesn't work, I am going to purchase some 0 offset wheels. More to follow.
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In all honesty, pushing the wheel out with a 0 to -10 offset aftermarket wheel will more than likely solve your issue. I dont rub with my 255's on the stock wheels but they sit really damn tight to everything. 255's on my aftermarket that have a -10 offset are sitting perfect. You could always do a quick CMC to address it. That would cost less than buying new wheels for sure.
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@Berserker__taco, thanks! Not really excited to do a CMC. I think I will increase my coilovers first and see how close that gets me. Oddly enough, now that the tires have settled, it isn't actually rubbing on the cab mount anymore. Just the plastic which I can heat up and mold. We'll see what happens when I add another 150 lbs. of rock sliders.
No worries. I havent done a CMC yet either thankfully. It never rubbed the mount. It did however like to rub the fender liner bulge. Hit that with the heat gun to push it in and no more rub.
Ok, so I did a road test with the new Toyo MT's. Surprisingly pretty quiet for an MT. dB test on the interstate pretty much matched the speed (i.e. 60 dB @ 60 mph). Have a listen @ 40 mph, although it's pretty poor audio on my Google Pixel phone and the cab is still uninsulated (not finished with the back vents uncovered).
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Offset will not solve your issue. The negative offset in this case is better as it creates a smaller wheel sweep radius and actually pulls the tire in giving you more turn with less actual area needed for the wheel to move through. Moving out to a 0 offset will move it away from the one area it is rubbing now, but it may still rub in other locations (unless you're lucky!) as you've now increased the sweep radius, making the tire move through more area than before. Moving to a negative offset will only make the issue even worse.
The real solve here is to increase the caster in your alignment. If you go to a shop familiar with offroad vehicles, they can do an alignment for you to push the caster forward just enough to clear. However, when pushing the tire forward you are going to encroach on the front fender liner which may make you rub there.
With these pizza cutter sizes, you should be able to get zero rub with a small caster adjustment and without trimming while using an OEM wheel.
I know this because I'm running these tires and have hairline rub under specific conditions on cab mount and front fender liner with a -7 offset. I'm planning to drop down to a 0 offset and couple it with a caster adjustment to see if it solves my rub issue.
My guess is, if you look at the space between your front tire and front fender liner while turning left to right, you have a decent amount of space up there left to push the caster forward and still clear while alleviating your rub issue on the cab mount.
Would love to hear your feedback on those resuls.
Just to note, some people have said 0 offest works fine, but others still have rub issues. It's really a truck-by-truck basis. However, I've seen more reports of success on stock +25 wheels than 0.
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So I increased the pre load on the ICON coilovers from 1.25" to 1.75" (1/2"), and it appears to have resolved the rubbing issue. I only lost 1/4" of droop. As Kai (Tinkerer's Adventure) states in his video (below) increasing ride height will push the wheel slightly forward. At least that is what I understood and it appears to have worked. I also have an appointment on Thursday with my alignment shop to see if we can still push the caster (LCA) forward a little more. I'll let everyone know how that works out.
BTW, adjusting the ICON coilovers is no joke. Scott with ICON was using a coilover that never saw the light of day in the ICON Vehicle Dynamics YouTube demo, and it was probably lubed too. This punch pin set (3/8" work perfectly) from Harbor Freight made it somewhat more manageable and saved the day. $30 for the ICON Spanner wrench, no thanks! And it got very poor reviews.
Original link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huMztKaHsUE
BTW, adjusting the ICON coilovers is no joke. Scott with ICON was using a coilover that never saw the light of day in the ICON Vehicle Dynamics YouTube demo, and it was probably lubed too. This punch pin set (3/8" work perfectly) from Harbor Freight made it somewhat more manageable and saved the day. $30 for the ICON Spanner wrench, no thanks! And it got very poor reviews.
I was able to squeeze the pizza cutter 33.5" into the spare tire holder by hammering the retainers a little flatter and a few other whacks of a sledge. It clears the exhaust now (rides above it like it should), doesn't touch the rear dif and sits properly. It is a very tight squeeze on the driver's side with the hangers.
Itll probably rub the diff at full compression. Mine does.
So I went back to the alignment shop today and the tech increased my caster still within spec and I have zero rubbing now. He said he was surprised how much the ICON UCA's allowed him to move the tire forward. I will post pics soon. Thanks @itsthex, @StormRnr and @Berserker__taco for the advice.
Update with pics:
Specifically, the tire is now properly centered. In the neutral position (straight forward) I have about 2" up front and in back.
When I turn the wheel, where it was rubbing before I now have about 1" of clearance.
No rubbing up front or the rear. And when compressed (like going over a bump), I haven't heard the tire well rub either.
I believe the combo of adding 1/2" of preload (raising the ICON coilovers) and increasing the caster during the alignment fixed my issue.
Update with pics:
Specifically, the tire is now properly centered. In the neutral position (straight forward) I have about 2" up front and in back.
When I turn the wheel, where it was rubbing before I now have about 1" of clearance.
No rubbing up front or the rear. And when compressed (like going over a bump), I haven't heard the tire well rub either.
I believe the combo of adding 1/2" of preload (raising the ICON coilovers) and increasing the caster during the alignment fixed my issue.
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Toyo MT's outperformed all of my expectations and chewed up some of the most difficult Moab trails (Elephant Hill, Top of the World, and Porcupine Rim) with ease.
18-19.5 PSI was ideal for all obstacles.
18-19.5 PSI was ideal for all obstacles.
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They are amazing tires. Glad you had a great time in Moab.
Milestar has a 275 80 17 which is 34.3 x 10.8 Kinda a pizza cutter. But definitely will be easier to fit than most other tires.
milestartires.com
Patagonia X/T - Milestar Tires
The Patagonia X/T is designed to tackle your on and off-road adventures. A rugged 3-ply sidewall is utilized for enhanced durability in rough conditions.
milestartires.com