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CoastieRon's Silver build & BS

Waiting to see how easy/difficult this is to do
I don't think it's going to be difficult at all, even with my circumstances (how my rears are powered by my amp via OEM wiring).:

The following posts are going to be process and updates of progress for the install of the Kenwood DMX905S.

For prep work, last night I removed the Beat-Sonic CS6EP unit from my truck. This plug and play unit worked very well however, the DMX905S comes with 2 camera inputs, and they are both "on demand" as well as the rear camera turning on when truck is put in reverse.

I also removed the dual USB from the glove box, the splitter from the OEM input, and put the OEM USB back in the dash panel. Because I can listen to the iPod via AirPlay, I will be storing it in my armrest console, plugged into the USB outlet I installed in there, and will have my micro thumb drive plugged into the OEM USB spot.

The following items come in today:

E-Brake Bypass
Maestro HRN-RR-TO2
Stinger RCA cables
Maestro ADS-MRR
Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adapter
Kenwood Excelon DMX905S

I'll start my capping and soldering tonight using this notes page I made to put up on my work bench

Solder diagram for speakers.webp


Currently, my rear speakers are powered by my amp (Arc Audio xDI 850.5) via a wire harness that plugs into the OEM wiring. In order to continue using the OEM wiring for those speakers, I will need to solder the speaker wires coming from the amp for the rears to the Maestro wire harness (circled in yellow).

The soldering will not be completed tonight, as I am still waiting for new speaker wire for the rears, as well as new remote turn on wire.

I'm hoping to do the actual install either Saturday or Sunday.

I also purchased a new tool for setting my gains on the amp. In the past, I used a DSO Mini-Oscilloscope to set my gains in a safe and responsible manner. I've decided that I want a PHD set up (push here dummy), and ordered a Steven Meade Designs DD-1 distortion detector to make this process more painless, and because it will get a lot of use (my kid's cars will be getting carplay/android auto when they purchase, as well as my cousins will be using it as well).

I will probably be doing a little more clean up with my previous install in the truck as well (tons of extra wire in there that can be shortened).
 
How I decided on this headunit:

I visited a local installer, authorized Kenwood/Alpine dealer that had a bunch of the head units I was looking at on-line, wired up and on display. I touched every Alpine & Kenwood I was interested in:

Alpine ILX-F259 Halo
Alpine ILX-207
Kenwood DMX-905S
Kenwood DDX9705S

My goal (as I stated in an audio thread that no one had input for):

  1. 5v Pre-Amp outputs
  2. Ability to use existing OEM infrastructure (steering wheel controls, GPS antenna, hands free mic) - I really don't want to fish those wires too, especially a GPS antenna.
  3. Ability to use my camera on demand
  4. Ability to use my existing music storage (iPod, USB) while using an Android phone for bluetooth
  5. Wireless Android Auto - this would be a nice item, but I'm not hung up on complete phone integration. I can do wired Android Auto as well, it's just going to take a little bit of creativity for the wiring, and I'm not sure how confused the head unit would get with me using Android Auto while having an iPod plugged into it....
Alpine's Head units will not split the USB. At all. Any of them. They did not have 5v outputs. I would not be able to use Android Auto and an iPod at the same time due to there being only 1 USB that wouldn't split (Kept saying USB Hub Not Recognized). These were some of the most important items on my list.

Kenwood's head units will not split the USB. However, the DMX905S has 2 USB cables coming out of the back, one black, one gray. So we plugged in my "iPhone-iPod" in the gray one. A menu came up asking how to use it, we selected "no phone, music files". It popped up as an iPod. We selected a song and let it play. While it was playing, we hooked up my Pixel 2, and it went right to android auto, but the music continued via the iphone. This is exactly what I was looking for!

Then we unplugged thew iphone. But the music continued to play via AirPlay! Fucking right! That means I can plug in my USB to the gray one, use the iphone via airplay, and still be on Android Auto!

IMG_20190309_161330.webp


A bonus, 5v pre amp outputs, and is wireless Android Auto (and I have a Pixel, and it works). It also is iData Link compatible, so I will keep all of my functions (hopefully LOL).
 
All ready to go. Me and the boy are going to get rolling on this later today. There are a few other things I need to do in there first.

I have discovered Tessa Tape

Before:

before tessa tape.webp


After

after tessa tape.webp
 
OK, all wrapped up, and with the right dash kit! Some pictures have the wrong dash kit (whoops)
1.webp


A few items of note/first impressions:

1. Holy shit what a difference in sound. The Morels I have in the truck were nice with the OEM head unit, but now they are incredible. The clarity at high volume is astounding.
2. I don't like WebLink. At all.
3. I have a Pixel 2, so my phone hooks up flawlessly to wireless Android Auto. I put my phone on the plug to get the battery charged and to have wired AA.
4. The back up camera resolution is not bad, but not as good as the OEM head unit
7.webp

5. Pre-Loaded equalizer settings!
6. For some reason on the gauges I get no fuel reading:
4.webp

7. The Apple Music iPod over airplay is very nice. The sound quality is better than I expected it would be.
8. The iPod and USB are labeled just that, the names don't change based on what the item says it is (my USB came up as "Catalogs" on the OEM head unit, and the iPod as "Moar Muzak")
9. Max volume before distortion was 37 on the Kenwood. That is where I tuned the amp at, 37. I turn it up to 30 and my hair is vibrating. VIBRATING. The clarity is amazing.
10. Turning the volume up, you can press and hold until it gets to 15. After 15 you have to press the up button for every notch higher you want to go. Wonder if there is something in the settings to change that.
11. Do not run Kenwood Link/WebLink at the same time as running AA. Funky shit happens.
12. If running AA, make sure the phone you are using is utilizing the GRAY USB. I know the manual says you can use either, but I call bull shit. I had my phone plugged into the black USB, and the only way it would link up to the head unit was if I downloaded Kenwood link/connect or whatever. I switched USB, and all was right; phone went right to AA.


I tuned the amp using 40hz @-5dB for the sub and 1000khz @-5dB. The Steve Meade Designs DD-1 is the most amazingly simple tuning tool. The last few amps I have set up, I used an oscilloscope, and they can be a pain in the ass. The DD-1 made this the easiest tuning ever, and is dead nuts on.
6.webp

When I ran the first test song (Umphries McGee's Miami Virtue - lots of bass and full range), I was giddy. Like really giddy. Like way giddier than with the OEM unit's sound.

All in all, so far so good. Audio books have good sound, as well as the USB and iPod. Waze looks great on the screen:
5.webp



Now for the dash cluster:

When you flip over to Audio you get all these choices:
8.webp
9.webp



GPS gives blank
10.webp


Music
13.webp

11.webp

12.webp



All others remain

Steering controls (what I have tested)

Volume works as normal
the up/down buttons on that same pad do nothing for audio. The up button changes the home screen (there are 5 home screens), and that is it. Nothing from the down button that I have found yet.
screen 1.webp
screen 2.webp
screen 3.webp
screen 4.webp
screen 5.webp


I removed screen 1, I won't be using weblink or Waze via weblink. You have to keep the phone on for that (screen stays unlocked on phone)

I have to play with the controls on the right side of the steering wheel (haven't gotten to far into that side yet), what I have found is it will control next/back on audio (up/down) if you have the audio screen up in the dash cluster.

I believe that when I had the vinyl installed on the roof, they forgot to plug the antenna in up there, because I get zero reception. Like legit zero. I'm going to call them tomorrow.
 
The new audio in the truck continues to be nothing short of amazing right now. This weekend's project is a front facing camera. I started the install last night (and will probably finish it tonight). I bonded the camera mounting bracket to the grille using J-B Welds plastic weld 2 part epoxy.

front cam 1.webpFront cam 2.webpfront cam 3.webpfront cam 4.webpfront cam 5.webp
 
I have to play with the controls on the right side of the steering wheel (haven't gotten to far into that side yet), what I have found is it will control next/back on audio (up/down) if you have the audio screen up in the dash cluster.

Looking good Ron! I just ordered a DDX9905S myself. After waiting years for wireless CarPlay to come out, I decided to save $300 and get last year's wired CarPlay model.

Have you checked into the Maestro customization? I was just looking at info for my install and saw that you can map the buttons pretty much any way you want. It reminded me of your post here.
 
I just installed the Halo 9 in mine, have had to trouble shoot a lot of my own work. Seems the Maestro RR is connecting fine but the fuel level on the Alpine is showing 0%, does the fuel level show up on your head unit? Looked like 0% on one of the photos.
 
I just installed the Halo 9 in mine, have had to trouble shoot a lot of my own work. Seems the Maestro RR is connecting fine but the fuel level on the Alpine is showing 0%, does the fuel level show up on your head unit? Looked like 0% on one of the photos.
It shows zero.
 
It shows zero.

Figured it out at lunch today. In the setting somewhere, you enter your fuel tanks total gallon capacity, then the gage will give you percentage left. Sorry I can’t tell you how to get there, I was so deep and lost in the menu, lol.
 
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