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5100 bilsteins to level front anyone?

AZWM Taco

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2018 TRD OR DCSB Auto
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Anyone running 5100 bilstein adjustable shocks to front only? Potential next mod maybe?
 
I do think some people like to do this first and then do the back later when they have the funds. Ideally though, you’d replace the front coils too.
 
Im running 5100s all around but i also paired them with ome 888s and a leaf pack. Gave me about a 3” with the 33s
37138FFE-C9A4-4D96-A0D4-68BDEEC6A753.jpeg
 
whats the full cost of shocks/coil/rear leaf? is there anything else you need or will those 3 things be good
I would also like to know ?
From Headstrong Off-road, a 5100 kit that comes with everything you need is about $1200 to $1600.

You can get upper control arms but you don’t have to. The shocks, coils, and add-a-leaf or leaf pack replacement are the bare minimum to get your truck lifted. Small things like the Taco lean spacer, driveshaft spacer, and ECGS bushing are technically optional but they’re cheap enough and important enough that you would just get those too.
 
From Headstrong Off-road, a 5100 kit that comes with everything you need is about $1200 to $1600.

You can get upper control arms but you don’t have to. The shocks, coils, and add-a-leaf or leaf pack replacement are the bare minimum to get your truck lifted. Small things like the Taco lean spacer, driveshaft spacer, and ECGS bushing are technically optional but they’re cheap enough and important enough that you would just get those too.

I got my set up from them with the spc ucas and spent about that with the spacer and bushing.
 
bilsteins set at 1.75 pairs with original springs. Off to alignment tomorrow.
Measurements from center hub to fender

BEFORE:
- front driver: 20 1/2
- front passenger: 20 1/2
- Rear driver: 22
- Rear passenger: 22 1/8

AFTER:
- front driver: 22 3/8
- Front passenger: 22 1/4
- Rear driver: 22 1/8
- Rear passenger: 22 1/8

Overall 1/8 of bro lean but I’m waiting for them to hopefully settle.
14AD8D03-14AA-4B0B-8057-CB0A20C21EE6.jpeg
 
bilsteins set at 1.75 pairs with original springs. Off to alignment tomorrow.
Measurements from center hub to fender

BEFORE:
- front driver: 20 1/2
- front passenger: 20 1/2
- Rear driver: 22
- Rear passenger: 22 1/8

AFTER:
- front driver: 22 3/8
- Front passenger: 22 1/4
- Rear driver: 22 1/8
- Rear passenger: 22 1/8

Overall 1/8 of bro lean but I’m waiting for them to hopefully settle.
14AD8D03-14AA-4B0B-8057-CB0A20C21EE6.jpeg

Your fronts won’t settle as much as Leaf packs. Especially when weight is added to the rear. More likely to get more settle in the rear.
 
Your fronts won’t settle as much as Leaf packs. Especially when weight is added to the rear. More likely to get more settle in the rear.
Damn, also some how my drivers side ended up .125in higher than the passengers side. I thought taco lean was ther reverse lol
 
Damn, also some how my drivers side ended up .125in higher than the passengers side. I thought taco lean was ther reverse lol
Taco lean doesn’t really depend on the suspension. Has a lot to do with the body mounts as the factory grommets wear rather quickly. Usually yes the driver side is what leans. Nothing to concern yourself with.
 
Im running 5100s all around but i also paired them with ome 888s and a leaf pack. Gave me about a 3” with the 33s
37138FFE-C9A4-4D96-A0D4-68BDEEC6A753.jpeg
@ Jay — aside from looks and MPGs, do you have any other effects (good or bad) with your mod? Example: are there other adjustments you need to make aside from alignment or have there been reports of issues with other areas of the truck upgrading the suspension ?
 
@ Jay — aside from looks and MPGs, do you have any other effects (good or bad) with your mod? Example: are there other adjustments you need to make aside from alignment or have there been reports of issues with other areas of the truck upgrading the suspension ?
Are you planning on flexing out the rear end. If yes do the brake lines. If no skip. You should invest in a cab mount chop. About 150$ and then sway bar relocation brackets or ditch it
 
So I've been trying to find time to sit down and give detailed thoughts on 5100s since I've become sort of a guru on them lately, but since I don't have time I figured I'd at least start with this quick rundown...

Pros: Affordability, compatibility, life span, different lengths available, ride quality on pavement
Cons: Steel bodies, limited cooling capacity, not rebuildable, can be paired with coils which their dampening is poorly matched

2nd/3rd Gen (front) part number differences: The 3rd Gen 5100 shocks are shorter with less overall travel and have 5 spring seat settings specifically for factory 3rd Gen coils. The 2nd Gen 5100s are longer with more overall travel and 4 spring seat settings specifically for stock 2nd Gen coils. They have different valving because of the difference in spring rates between 2nd and 3rd Gen factory springs.

What this means: If you are going to run 5100s on your factory 3rd Gen coils, I would recommend the 3rd Gen 5100s. If you are going to run aftermarket springs and upper control arms, I would run the 2nd Gen 5100s. Why? More travel is better, and the 2nd Gen 5100s will be valved more appropriately for most aftermarket coils that fall in the 590-620lb spring rate range.

How much more travel do 2nd Gen (front) 5100s have? More than 0.5" additional compressed (uptravel) and over 0.25" longer extended (downtravel) than the 3rd Gen version. If you're not that familiar with suspension then those figures may sound like nothing, but if you knew how much money and effort some people invest in their setups to gain 1" of wheel travel on an IFS rig you'd probably vomit.

What about the rear? Bilstein's "B8" part numbers for the rear 5100s are the same for 2nd and 3rd Gens and only accommodate about 1.5" of lift, so they will work with most add-a-leafs with or without overloads, and the "b" word that ends with "locks" (but please, don't run blocks). If you run a full aftermarket replacement leaf pack such as the Dakars, Bilstein also makes a "B110" rear shock that is crazy long and compatible with just about any heavy duty leaf pack combination out there, but in order to run them you will need extended brake lines or at the very least brake line extension brackets and a little creativity.

Who am I to talk? Just a dude who wheels with a combined 125,000 miles on four different sets of various 5100s on two different generations of Tacomas and six different spring combinations who happens to actually use the shit out of them on trucks that were absolutely not pavement princesses.

I could go into sickening detail about my experiences with 5100s, but the bottom line is that they are a great entry-level shock option that is superior to OEM in every way. The adjustability makes them versatile, as does their ability to be paired with OEM, Eibach, OME, and other "stock replacement" coil springs to get the ride height you want with or without preloading them and losing suspension travel and ride comfort.

Likewise, I could go into coma-inducing drivel about how 5100s are inferior in almost every way than virtually any coilover or reservoir shock on the market, including budget-minded 2.0s, due to improved cooling, dampening, valving, adjustability, spring options, and the list goes on and on. At the end of the day, you should always get the best that you can afford if you use your truck off-road often, but for those on a very limited budget the 5100s are arguably the best option. They are certainly far superior to any spacer lift, less expensive and very similar to Eibach's newer offerings, and better overall than OME and just about any other lesser known OEM-style shocks/struts on the market.
 
Last edited:
So I've been trying to find time to sit down and give detailed thoughts on 5100s since I've become sort of a guru on them lately, but since I don't have time I figured I'd at least start with this quick rundown...

Pros: Affordability, compatibility, life span, different lengths available, ride quality on pavement
Cons: Steel bodies, limited cooling capacity, not rebuildable, can be paired with coils which their dampening is poorly matched

2nd/3rd Gen (front) part number differences: The 3rd Gen 5100 shocks are shorter with less overall travel and have 5 spring seat settings specifically for factory 3rd Gen coils. The 2nd Gen 5100s are longer with more overall travel and 4 spring seat settings specifically for stock 2nd Gen coils. They have different valving because of the difference in spring rates between 2nd and 3rd Gen factory springs.

What this means: If you are going to run 5100s on your factory 3rd Gen coils, I would recommend the 3rd Gen 5100s. If you are going to run aftermarket springs and upper control arms, I would run the 2nd Gen 5100s. Why? More travel is better, and the 2nd Gen 5100s will be valved more appropriately for most aftermarket coils that fall in the 590-620lb spring rate range.

How much more travel do 2nd Gen 5100s have? More than a half inch more compressed (uptravel) and more than a quarter inch longer extended (downtravel).

What about the rear? Bilstein's "B8" part numbers for the rear 5100s are the same for 2nd and 3rd Gens and only accommodate about 1.5" of lift, so they will work with most add-a-leafs with or without overloads, and the "b" word that ends with "locks" (but please, don't run blocks). If you run a full aftermarket replacement leaf pack such as the Dakars, Bilstein also makes a "B110" rear shock that is crazy long and compatible with just about any heavy duty leaf pack combination out there, but in order to run them you will need extended brake lines or at the very least brake line extension brackets and a little creativity.

I could go into sickening detail about my experiences with 5100s, but the bottom line is that they are a great entry-level shock option that is superior to OEM in every way. The adjustability makes them versatile, as does their ability to be paired with OEM, Eibach, OME, and other "stock replacement" coil springs to get the ride height you want with or without preloading them and losing suspension travel and ride comfort.

Likewise, I could go into coma-inducing drivel about how 5100s are inferior in almost every way than virtually any coilover on the market, including budget-minded 2.0s, due to dramatically improved cooling, dampening, valving, adjustability, spring options, and the list goes on and on. At the end of the day, you should always get the best that you can afford if you use your truck at all and it isn't just a pavement princess. For those on a limited budget the 5100s are a very good option.
Good assessment, that was gangsta. I’m putting the 5100s in the rear as soon as I get the time
 
Good assessment, that was gangsta. I’m putting the 5100s in the rear as soon as I get the time
I'm one of those guys who is currently running a one inch block on the rear with the 5100's. Do i like it? yes unless I'm driving on the highway then i hate it i get rear most likely drive line vibration starting at 65 mph or higher i had the tires balance and that wasn't the problem so i ruled that out , i also install a carrier bearing drop kit and that didn't help either. So the solution for that is Icon AAL, i just order Icon upper control arms delta joint for my truck since i have Icon coilovers so i might as well get rid of the block, the only problem i have to wait 4-6 weeks for the upper arms then ill be doing it all together.
 
I have Bilstein 5100's on my 3rd Gen Tacoma and I'm planning on putting in 3" Ironman coil springs. Will they work together? Do I need to worry about the Bilstein handling the spring rate from the 3" Ironman coil spring?
 
So I've been trying to find time to sit down and give detailed thoughts on 5100s since I've become sort of a guru on them lately, but since I don't have time I figured I'd at least start with this quick rundown...

Pros: Affordability, compatibility, life span, different lengths available, ride quality on pavement
Cons: Steel bodies, limited cooling capacity, not rebuildable, can be paired with coils which their dampening is poorly matched

2nd/3rd Gen (front) part number differences: The 3rd Gen 5100 shocks are shorter with less overall travel and have 5 spring seat settings specifically for factory 3rd Gen coils. The 2nd Gen 5100s are longer with more overall travel and 4 spring seat settings specifically for stock 2nd Gen coils. They have different valving because of the difference in spring rates between 2nd and 3rd Gen factory springs.

What this means: If you are going to run 5100s on your factory 3rd Gen coils, I would recommend the 3rd Gen 5100s. If you are going to run aftermarket springs and upper control arms, I would run the 2nd Gen 5100s. Why? More travel is better, and the 2nd Gen 5100s will be valved more appropriately for most aftermarket coils that fall in the 590-620lb spring rate range.

How much more travel do 2nd Gen (front) 5100s have? More than 0.5" additional compressed (uptravel) and over 0.25" longer extended (downtravel) than the 3rd Gen version. If you're not that familiar with suspension then those figures may sound like nothing, but if you knew how much money and effort some people invest in their setups to gain 1" of wheel travel on an IFS rig you'd probably vomit.

What about the rear? Bilstein's "B8" part numbers for the rear 5100s are the same for 2nd and 3rd Gens and only accommodate about 1.5" of lift, so they will work with most add-a-leafs with or without overloads, and the "b" word that ends with "locks" (but please, don't run blocks). If you run a full aftermarket replacement leaf pack such as the Dakars, Bilstein also makes a "B110" rear shock that is crazy long and compatible with just about any heavy duty leaf pack combination out there, but in order to run them you will need extended brake lines or at the very least brake line extension brackets and a little creativity.

Who am I to talk? Just a dude who wheels with a combined 125,000 miles on four different sets of various 5100s on two different generations of Tacomas and six different spring combinations who happens to actually use the shit out of them on trucks that were absolutely not pavement princesses.

I could go into sickening detail about my experiences with 5100s, but the bottom line is that they are a great entry-level shock option that is superior to OEM in every way. The adjustability makes them versatile, as does their ability to be paired with OEM, Eibach, OME, and other "stock replacement" coil springs to get the ride height you want with or without preloading them and losing suspension travel and ride comfort.

Likewise, I could go into coma-inducing drivel about how 5100s are inferior in almost every way than virtually any coilover or reservoir shock on the market, including budget-minded 2.0s, due to improved cooling, dampening, valving, adjustability, spring options, and the list goes on and on. At the end of the day, you should always get the best that you can afford if you use your truck off-road often, but for those on a very limited budget the 5100s are arguably the best option. They are certainly far superior to any spacer lift, less expensive and very similar to Eibach's newer offerings, and better overall than OME and just about any other lesser known OEM-style shocks/struts on the market.
I have Bilstein 5100's on my 3rd Gen Tacoma and I'm planning on putting in 3" Ironman coil springs. Will they work together? Do I need to worry about the Bilstein handling the spring rate from the 3" Ironman coil spring?
 
I have Bilstein 5100's on my 3rd Gen Tacoma and I'm planning on putting in 3" Ironman coil springs. Will they work together? Do I need to worry about the Bilstein handling the spring rate from the 3" Ironman coil spring?
Do they fit the OEM shocks? If they do, should be fine on the 5100's. Just leave the height collar at the lowest setting.
 
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