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I missed the second half of your post...
I like the feel of the front end without it, but I’ve decided to leave mine on until I get my bypasses up front. If you remove it you shouldn’t see any floating, but cornering will definitely be different (whether you have oem or aftermarket suspension). Just gotta take it slow and feel everything out to see how your setup handles the change
With 700# springs there is absolutely no reason to keep it on there. The truck will feel so much better without. Just don't go full retard and snap the wheel going 80 MPH to avoid a bird or something and you'll love it.
Not a couple of inches - you're talking a lot of money to achieve that - but leaving it installed does limit your suspension's downtravel, so you're not getting as much droop as your setup would allow unless you take it off. Removing it not only frees up that restriction, but also allows each side of the truck to work independently, as it should. Travel and articulation are related but not the same thing. You're missing two thirds of the equation if you're only worried about droop.
Did it seem like it could be disconnected and zip tied in place? I was gonna do that if it seems like it wouldn’t get fucked with when flexing.
Hmmmm. Decisions, decisions. I spend most of my time on road, and a few times a year do something like Death Valley or Sedona. Running King 2.5 extended travel with 600 lb springs. Very tempting to take it off for Cleghorn.
I am thinking of taking mine off but keeping it around since I drive a lot of highway miles just in case. I only have 650# springs so I might not like it. Your setup sounds like ideal. I have been too lazy and it has been too hot to take it off so interested how you like it if youdo take it off!
You'll be 100% fine with 650# springs on a 2nd Gen. My 2nd Gen was on 620# coils with a bit of preload and handled great without the sway bar. My old 3rd Gen was 1,000lbs heavier than my 2nd Gen was, and it only had 590# coils with no preload and handled like garbage but we never died and trust me when I say I am not a conservative driver by any stretch.
I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make on a truck with a drop bracket. The sway bar is definitely a limiting factor but how far you're going to stuff the tires has a lot more to do with your shock's compressed length and the overall geometry of your suspension. In other words, it may or it may not. I would give it a shot to find out, just remember to take it easy at first... it might be sketchier than the rest of our setups since you have a higher center of gravity.
But why would it not make a difference on a truck with a diff drop? I guess I’ll just have to do it and find out. ?
I didn't say it wouldn't make a difference, in fact I specifically said it is "definitely a limiting factor." I just also brought up the fact that the geometry your suspension is entirely different, your shock lengths and angles are different, your center of gravity is higher, etc. so your truck may not behave as well as everyone else's. I'd try it too, I was just giving a precautionary heads up - that's all.But why would it not make a difference on a truck with a diff drop? I guess I’ll just have to do it and find out. ?
