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Shocks

Being that this forum is called tacoma3g I am going to suggest that you keep your truck and not trade it for a chevy! I'm just worried about your health, pushing a 5000lb truck home cannot be good for you. I googled a few off road specific shops around you, I'd bring it there and see what they have to say. Without getting under there I doubt any of us really know what's going on, and what it would take to get the stock mounting points back. I wish you the best of luck with the tacoma you are going to keep forever!
 
Being that this forum is called tacoma3g I am going to suggest that you keep your truck and not trade it for a chevy! I'm just worried about your health, pushing a 5000lb truck home cannot be good for you. I googled a few off road specific shops around you, I'd bring it there and see what they have to say. Without getting under there I doubt any of us really know what's going on, and what it would take to get the stock mounting points back. I wish you the best of luck with the tacoma you are going to keep forever!
Lol why would I need to push my truck home? What do you think is going to happen to it?
 
I think you’ve had it for a while. But if you keep a good asshole-to-helpful ratio, everything should be all 🌈 and🌻.
Think I’m doing okay

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Hmm. I get what you’re saying. I’m at the point where I’m either going to drop 3-5k on good shocks such as King/Fox and then later get a regear such as Nitro with some sort of tune.
Or if I’m going to trade in then I’d rather just get a used Chevy or GMC with a small lift (2-3”) or just a leveling kit for now.
Reason I say get another brand truck is that if I’m going to stick with Toyota then I may as well dump a little bit of money into this one.
If I’m gonna trade in then I don’t wanna take a hit and trade my nice looking truck with all of its upgrades in for a stock Toyota when I know that a stock Chevy would ride just as smooth and could one day handle a lift.
Yea a Chevy wouldn’t hold value and would probably get a few less mpg but it would handle a 6” no problem.
My dad has had several new Chevys with 6” lifts, 3.5”, and I think a 5”. And none of them ever rode as bad as my Tacoma.
However, I am going to do everything I can to try and keep my Tacoma.
I got the truck because I wanted to be the last owner of it and one day build it a certain way. So I may as well save up some money and at least try getting Kings/Fox or maybe even Icon and if that doesn’t work at all then I’ll trade on a V8.

Also, I talked with a guy that works at King today and he said I could take my airbags off the back since I don’t use them anyways and that would make a big difference. And there’s also a possibility that my tires may be a little dry rotted from sitting on my backup truck (2006 F-150) for around 4-5 years and not being drove around hardly at all lol. So I might also drop down to 33s as well.
I don't quite understand this mentality of thinking this is a Toyota problem and that the Taco can't handle a lift. You said it yourself, with "nice looking truck." You got to decide what you want, like why do you need a 6" lift or a lift at all? Plenty of tacos out there on 6" lifts, but in most cases you very much get what you pay for. 6" on blocks and pucks isn't going to ride nearly as nice as a proper 6" lift, but does have the added benefit of costing less while achieving the same look as a more expensive option might. Chevy's can handle a 6" lift, so can Fords and Nissans, and all can ride great or terrible depending on the quality and materials used.

My opinion, find out what was done to the truck and how much it would cost to reverse or fix. Remember none of those changes affect the value of the truck. If it's more than just getting a new truck, I'd just get a new truck. Especially since you said you wanted to take it to 2-300k. Slap some nice tires on there and run it stock and you'll be surprised at where it can take you.
 
Yea I can’t really convert it back to stock because they trimmed the frame and something else on like the drivetrain or something. Talked to a guy at a lift shop and he said it would be just as much as what my lift costs to convert it back to stock cause they’d have to get that piece off of a junkyard Tacoma for the drive train.
And yea I get what you’re saying about the lifts but like I said, I’ve rode in so many V8s that were lifted just like mine and they were never this bad.
The Tacoma really can’t handle a 6” lift and 35s cause the frame is so light and the truck is already sluggish enough. When you lift it you also put the drivetrain at a bad angle so it’s not turning over like it should. It’s a variety of different issues but I know that pretty much my only options as of now are to throw a shock kit under it ($3500-4000 for kings) or ($400 total for Bilstein) or I would have to just trade it in. Idk. I’m still trying to find out what other shock companies make kits for it and how much they are.
 
Yea I can’t really convert it back to stock because they trimmed the frame and something else on like the drivetrain or something. Talked to a guy at a lift shop and he said it would be just as much as what my lift costs to convert it back to stock cause they’d have to get that piece off of a junkyard Tacoma for the drive train.
And yea I get what you’re saying about the lifts but like I said, I’ve rode in so many V8s that were lifted just like mine and they were never this bad.
The Tacoma really can’t handle a 6” lift and 35s cause the frame is so light and the truck is already sluggish enough. When you lift it you also put the drivetrain at a bad angle so it’s not turning over like it should. It’s a variety of different issues but I know that pretty much my only options as of now are to throw a shock kit under it ($3500-4000 for kings) or ($400 total for Bilstein) or I would have to just trade it in. Idk. I’m still trying to find out what other shock companies make kits for it and how much they are.
When I say the Tacoma can’t handle the lift, I’m meaning like it could if it had shocks.
Usually when you put a 6” with 35s and 18s on a Chevy/GMC or Ford it will ride worse than stock but still not too bad. It’s never usually bad enough to have to put shocks under it. Because the truck is heavy enough to weigh down on it or something idk. My dad has had several Chevys over the years with Rough Country’s which are like the worst riding lift kits (or so I’ve heard).
My point is, in the South, you hardly hear of someone having to get a shock setup for a V8 just cause it’s lifted.
Trust me I would love to just take it down to either a leveling kit or a 3” cause I know either of those will ride just fine. But I can’t.
 
When I say the Tacoma can’t handle the lift, I’m meaning like it could if it had shocks.
Usually when you put a 6” with 35s and 18s on a Chevy/GMC or Ford it will ride worse than stock but still not too bad. It’s never usually bad enough to have to put shocks under it. Because the truck is heavy enough to weigh down on it or something idk. My dad has had several Chevys over the years with Rough Country’s which are like the worst riding lift kits (or so I’ve heard).
My point is, in the South, you hardly hear of someone having to get a shock setup for a V8 just cause it’s lifted.
Trust me I would love to just take it down to either a leveling kit or a 3” cause I know either of those will ride just fine. But I can’t.
Just cut it out man, you're too much. You've had a dozen very thoughtful and detailed responses to your questions, and I don't believe a single point has lodged itself in your thinking.

Let us know what you decide.
 
Agree with above, unfortunately...

Honestly not sure if you're looking for info or just to validate your opinions of apples and oranges.
I'll just leave this here. 6" lift on 35s, what you get out of it is up to you, along with how much you want to spend on your truck. Good luck!

 
Just cut it out man, you're too much. You've had a dozen very thoughtful and detailed responses to your questions, and I don't believe a single point has lodged itself in your thinking.

Let us know what you decide.
Ok. My bad, I was honestly just trying to make sure I make the right decision on whatever it is I end up doing so that I don’t waste any money.
 
I wanna say if you can get rid of those 18 in rims get some 16in rims get more rubber between the road and truck. So I'm getting ready to do a 6in and it's a zones lift . I can keep my 16 in rims cause I have the right back spacing for the lift . They call for 4.5 in back spacing which I have with my rims . Now I wanna do 295/75/16 ko2s but have to lift first . I'm keeping my bilsteins in the front lift comes with new rear shocks fox shocks
 
I wanna say if you can get rid of those 18 in rims get some 16in rims get more rubber between the road and truck. So I'm getting ready to do a 6in and it's a zones lift . I can keep my 16 in rims cause I have the right back spacing for the lift . They call for 4.5 in back spacing which I have with my rims . Now I wanna do 295/75/16 ko2s but have to lift first . I'm keeping my bilsteins in the front lift comes with new rear shocks fox shocks
Ok thanks for the advice.
The other day I took off my airbags from the rear because I was told they keep the back shock from extending as much as it is supposed to and I don’t really do any towing anyhow.
Im not sure if it helped with the ride quality whatsoever because I only drove it for a few hours before I had to go out of town for work and leave it at home.
The guys at the lift shop said I can also change the front lift spacer that’s like a 5-6” to a 4” and it’ll help the front shock extend as well.
Other than that, there’s not really much I can do other than a shock kit or smaller tires/wheels.
But now I have a semi-new problem, where my bed is rattling super bad. I always assumed it was my bed cover so I took it off and now the noise is just louder, so I’m assuming the whole bed is loose.
Idk.
Really don’t wanna get rid of the truck so I’m trying to run through every possible option first.
 
best on road suspension for a 3rd gen Tacoma which is damn good off road as well is Bilstein 6112's on the front with Bilstein 5160's (with remote reservoirs) on the rear. You can get 2.75" lift from those which are adjustable. Keep the rake, leveling a truck is just dumb.They come with a rake for a reason. U'll definitely want to put SPC adjustable upper control arms on to replace factory for several reasons and it's best to get a new leaf pack or at least an add a leaf on the rear. A Dif drop is cheap and is a good idea but not necessary. I suggest a body mount relocate instead of a chop for integrity reasons and it will give you all the space you need for some 285/70/17 BFG KO2's (basically a 33" tire). Get maybe a -12 or -25 offset rim to give room for wheels. Don't go over 17" rim so you can air down when needed and not have it ride like crap. Don't use any spacers over a half inch and NO wheel spacers! A half inch won't cause a problem and will give a little extra space. Some minimal trimming will be required but mostly just a heat gun and pushing some plastic away from the wheel for making turns on uneven terrain. No mid size truck should have more than 3" of lift. The Bilsteins I mentioned are only a fraction of King's (overkill for daily driver) or Fox (overrated for Tacoma). These Bilsteins actually measure over 2.5" and are bigger than the Fox 2.5's. The money u save will more than pay for the UCA's and leaf packs. If you are gonna keep it and want it to drive like a real truck get it regard with Nitro 5.29 gears and do the KDMAX Pro tune. You can research everything I said and I promise u it's the best and most affordable way to go for ur truck.
 
best on road suspension for a 3rd gen Tacoma which is damn good off road as well is Bilstein 6112's on the front with Bilstein 5160's (with remote reservoirs) on the rear. You can get 2.75" lift from those which are adjustable. Keep the rake, leveling a truck is just dumb.They come with a rake for a reason. U'll definitely want to put SPC adjustable upper control arms on to replace factory for several reasons and it's best to get a new leaf pack or at least an add a leaf on the rear. A Dif drop is cheap and is a good idea but not necessary. I suggest a body mount relocate instead of a chop for integrity reasons and it will give you all the space you need for some 285/70/17 BFG KO2's (basically a 33" tire). Get maybe a -12 or -25 offset rim to give room for wheels. Don't go over 17" rim so you can air down when needed and not have it ride like crap. Don't use any spacers over a half inch and NO wheel spacers! A half inch won't cause a problem and will give a little extra space. Some minimal trimming will be required but mostly just a heat gun and pushing some plastic away from the wheel for making turns on uneven terrain. No mid size truck should have more than 3" of lift. The Bilsteins I mentioned are only a fraction of King's (overkill for daily driver) or Fox (overrated for Tacoma). These Bilsteins actually measure over 2.5" and are bigger than the Fox 2.5's. The money u save will more than pay for the UCA's and leaf packs. If you are gonna keep it and want it to drive like a real truck get it regard with Nitro 5.29 gears and do the KDMAX Pro tune. You can research everything I said and I promise u it's the best and most affordable way to go for ur truck.

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6112 is 2" on a 3rd Gen. 2.75" or something on a 2nd.
 
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