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Shocks

SilverBullet3g

SilverBullet3g

3️⃣ Silver
So I am currently debating getting either King or Fox shocks for my 2017 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4. It has a 6” lift with 35x18s. So far the truck has rode like absolute crap. The other options I have considered is to either convert to a 3” lift and or just convert back to a leveling kit. I have also been told that some people will buy the used Bilstein TRD Off Road shocks for a couple hundred bucks off Facebook or something instead of buying new shocks.
What should I do? I am about to graduate college with a B.S. and will have student debt to pay as well as adjusting to paying my own bills for once.
I got this Tacoma because I wanted it to last and I don’t want to trade it in on a V8 such as a Chevy or Ford unless I absolutely have to.
But at the same time I need to know that it will be absolutely worth it to get the shocks or whatever I need to do, done.
I simply don’t want to dump thousands into the truck unless I know that it will fix the ride quality. I test drove a 16 Off Road that had a 3” and 33s and it felt like riding in a car. It was such an amazing difference that I almost traded in on it even though my truck has 20k less miles.
Someone please give me a thorough explanation of what to do. I just want my truck to ride smooth on the highway and through cities, I’m a Forester but honestly won’t be going very fast on dirt roads. Maybe 35-45mph max and that’s if the road is smooth. Which they hardly ever are.
I watched a video I think by TacomaBeast or maybe TacoTwonz or someone that said Fox shocks are better because they are adjustable. Idk. I just need some good advice because no one I talk to in person seems to know how to address my specific situation.
Thanks.
 
Suspension opinions are like buttholes, everyones got one.

My opinion: 3" lift w/ 33"s are the best riding setup for our trucks while still providing great off-road performance. You cant go wrong with either King or Fox, id say whatever you can find a good deal on. But having a remote reservoir will help a lot more than a mono shock, and both king and fox have adjusters available.

I personally run king because theyre blue...and blue is pretty lol.
 
nickyreno said:
Sounds like you have your answer in the truck you test drove.
Click to expand...
Right. Only issue is I bought the truck as is and they may have trimmed the frame to fit the lift under it. Not sure yet. Gotta take it by a place that does lifts and whatnot and see.
According to them tho, if they did trim the frame, then it’ll cost almost as much as the lift costs just to take the lift off. In that case I might try and put shocks on first but idk if it’ll make too much of a difference on a 6” on a Yota.
 
Biohazard said:

Fox vs King: 2.0 Coilover Shock Comparison – AccuTune Off-Road

accutuneoffroad.com accutuneoffroad.com

Accutune has a great write up on this exact issue.
Summary: Kings are the legendary standby, and they are blue.
Fox is better, more durable, more adjustability; but they are black and silver, who wants that?!?
Click to expand...
To be honest idc what they look like, I’m in it for the ride quality. I mean I got the truck cause it’s lifted and I didn’t want a stock nerdy looking Toyota but now idc how it looks I just want it to ride smooth cause it’ll rattle your teeth on the smallest bumps. It’s terrible.
Plus it’s your shocks, it’s not like rims, it ain’t like you’re gonna be looking at them that often. Unless it’s parked really.
 
New Holland Overland said:
Suspension opinions are like buttholes, everyones got one.

My opinion: 3" lift w/ 33"s are the best riding setup for our trucks while still providing great off-road performance. You cant go wrong with either King or Fox, id say whatever you can find a good deal on. But having a remote reservoir will help a lot more than a mono shock, and both king and fox have adjusters available.

I personally run king because theyre blue...and blue is pretty lol.
Click to expand...
So according to my buddy who just bought a WickedCustomz lift with Fox shocks built in for like a 2012 F-250, the normal shocks aren’t that expensive.
But if you get the full shock kit (with the reservoirs like you’re referring to) then it’ll be like $3k for my truck, front and back, and I’m not trying to spend that kinda money, especially if idek if it’s going to work 100%.
At that point I’d rather just trade the truck in.
 
SilverBullet3g said:
So according to my buddy who just bought a WickedCustomz lift with Fox shocks built in for like a 2012 F-250, the normal shocks aren’t that expensive.
But if you get the full shock kit (with the reservoirs like you’re referring to) then it’ll be like $3k for my truck, front and back, and I’m not trying to spend that kinda money, especially if idek if it’s going to work 100%.
At that point I’d rather just trade the truck in.
Click to expand...
Cause he only payed like $2.5k or so for the lift and shocks together. And most of that was the lift.
 
nickyreno said:
Trade the truck in then
Click to expand...
If you read my original comment then you’ll see that I don’t want to. I bought a Tacoma because I wanted a truck that would last to 200-300k miles. Then prolly drop a badass motor in it and turn it into a Baja truck.
Im simply trying to find out from others on here on whether I should drop the lift, or get the shocks first.
 
You bought a Tacoma because you wanted a truck that would do at least 200-300k miles. But you didn’t want a “nerdy” looking one so you bought one that won’t do 1 mile without “rattling your teeth”. But you don’t want to put $3k into your truck to make it last the 200-300k, but are still willing to put $100k into it to turn it into a badass Baja truck with a motor that will definitely not do 200-300k miles.
 
SilverBullet3g said:
100k just for it to be a Baja truck? There’s no fucking way dawg. You pulling numbers out your ass.
And no, I don’t expect the truck to do 2-300k miles after I drop a motor in it and get Baja suspension and all that. I’m saying I want to drive the truck to 2-300k and then do that.
There’s no way I’ll ever have time to put that many miles on it if I was just driving it on the desert on the weekends.
I don’t even live anywhere near a desert.
Click to expand...

There’s that B.S. shining bright.
 
For sure man! Yeah I’m not getting a B.S. in some sort of mechanic degree. Nor do I have any experience in truck builds. It’s a Bachelors in Forestry Management.
I have absolutely no clue how much a Baja build is. I know I wouldn’t spend 100k on it. I’d just do a different style like an over landing build.
Hell I don’t even know shit about putting on shocks or lifts or regears. That’s why I’m on here.
But at least I’m not trying to argue with someone that’s simply seeking advice on a truck forum.
Why are you even here?
 
I’m on here to tell you that it sounds like you have your answer in the truck you test drove, otherwise investing $3k now in the truck you are so hell-bent on keeping isn’t such a big deal. Especially if you’re willing to do a full blown motor swap. Also here to tell you to start saving up once you get a job in “forestry management” because a proper baja build will easily cost you $100k.
 
Yea like I stated ^^, I gotta let a lift shop look at it before I even know if taking my current lift off is feasible.
That’s why I was just posting all of the possible options I have thought of to see if anyone knew if putting shocks on a Tacoma with a 6” and 35s is even worth doing.
I know for a fact it will ride fine with the 3” & 33s.
But idk if they trimmed the frame for the lift to fit.
 
Silver, Nicky has some strong opinions, and I think interpreted your lack of knowledge as just being an ass. Maybe a little of both are going on ;).

There are lots of things that go into the way a truck rides, but 4 main categories, with lots of nuances in each: spring rates, shocks, tires, and where the suspension geometry sits at in relationship to its travel limits. Merely switching the shocks may not help that much.

After reading everything you've said, you have two options: 1) sell your truck to another young guy like yourself from a few years ago who doesn't care about the ride and wants to look cool, then buy another taco and build it the way you like. Or 2) get rid of the 6 inch lift and 35's, sell them, and install a 3 inch and 33's that is focused on a nice ride.

A well tuned and trimmed taco that rides nice and runs 35's takes a lot of doing (lots of chopping, hammering, welding, re-gearing, electronic tuning, etc. and a lot of cash). A 3 inch lift and 33's are pretty much plug and play, with plenty of benefit available with tweaking all the categories above. We all spend hours on here doing things in that 3inch lift-33 inch tire or less space (or in my case, stock trd-pro setup) and have plenty of capability and great, enjoyable daily drivers.

I suggest you sit down and calculate the cash required to get where you want through both options mentioned above, recognizing that any money you put into your truck is lost. People in general don't pay extra for a truck with a lift (20+ years of car sales experience speaking), and banks loan money based on the stock vehicle's value. Once you figure out the dollars, make the economical decision.
 
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Wym people in general? Shouldn’t that be why my truck was listed at 37 instead of 30 at stock for the same year model? I feel like my truck would easily list for more than what a stock 17 would list for.
And as far as the shocks possibly fixing my ride quality, I’m specifically referring to the way it takes bumps. I’m pretty sure that what I have now is really stiff stock shocks combined with my ProComp lift and that a shock kit would make them softer, right?
I know that shocks won’t fix the sluggishness of the truck and I’d have to get a regear and either OVTune of Pedal Commander or something.
 
Were I in your shoes I'd sell the truck and buy the one you want. Actually, were I in your shoes I'd buy a 20+ year old truck because student loans are a bitch.
 
I mean yeah but it’s only 26k. I can find a good job for 70k or more a year and just pay them off ASAP.
But yeah I don’t really want an old truck when I have a 17 Tacoma ya know. Worse case scenario, I’ll just trade in on a 2010+ Chevy.
 
SilverBullet3g said:
Wym people in general? Shouldn’t that be why my truck was listed at 37 instead of 30 at stock for the same year model? I feel like my truck would easily list for more than what a stock 17 would list for.
And as far as the shocks possibly fixing my ride quality, I’m specifically referring to the way it takes bumps. I’m pretty sure that what I have now is really stiff stock shocks combined with my ProComp lift and that a shock kit would make them softer, right?
I know that shocks won’t fix the sluggishness of the truck and I’d have to get a regear and either OVTune of Pedal Commander or something.
Click to expand...

Your truck was listed at 37 likely so the dealership could recoup the cost + 3 or 4k it took them to drop off the truck at Les Schwab to have them install that junk lift kit and tires. Banking on a kid like yourself to stroll along and give them 7k more for a truck that should have cost 30k retail simply because it looks cool.

In my experience, it’s a good deal if you get back 15-20% of what you put into the car aftermarket. Expecting less than that is realistic, expecting more than that is foolish.

Nobody gives a fuck what you’ve done to a vehicle because a bank isn’t going to give a dime more than what it books at.
 
Biohazard said:
Silver, Nicky has some strong opinions, and I think interpreted your lack of knowledge as just being an ass. Maybe a little of both are going on ;).

There are lots of things that go into the way a truck rides, but 4 main categories, with lots of nuances in each: spring rates, shocks, tires, and where the suspension geometry sits at in relationship to its travel limits. Merely switching the shocks may not help that much.

After reading everything you've said, you have two options: 1) sell your truck to another young guy like yourself from a few years ago who doesn't care about the ride and wants to look cool, then buy another taco and build it the way you like. Or 2) get rid of the 6 inch lift and 35's, sell them, and install a 3 inch and 33's that is focused on a nice ride.

A well tuned and trimmed taco that rides nice and runs 35's takes a lot of doing (lots of chopping, hammering, welding, re-gearing, electronic tuning, etc. and a lot of cash). A 3 inch lift and 33's are pretty much plug and play, with plenty of benefit available with tweaking all the categories above. We all spend hours on here doing things in that 3inch lift-33 inch tire or less space (or in my case, stock trd-pro setup) and have plenty of capability and great, enjoyable daily drivers.

I suggest you sit down and calculate the cash required to get where you want through both options mentioned above, recognizing that any money you put into your truck is lost. People in general don't pay extra for a truck with a lift (20+ years of car sales experience speaking), and banks loan money based on the stock vehicle's value. Once you figure out the dollars, make the economical decision.
Click to expand...

I’m just going for that t3g resident asshole badge
 
nickyreno said:
Your truck was listed at 37 likely so the dealership could recoup the cost + 3 or 4k it took them to drop off the truck at Les Schwab to have them install that junk lift kit and tires. Banking on a kid like yourself to stroll along and give them 7k more for a truck that should have cost 30k retail simply because it looks cool.

In my experience, it’s a good deal if you get back 15-20% of what you put into the car aftermarket. Expecting less than that is realistic, expecting more than that is foolish.

Nobody gives a fuck what you’ve done to a vehicle because a bank isn’t going to give a dime more than what it books at.
Click to expand...
I get what you’re saying about the bank and all but why do websites like KBB ask for all of the upgrades if they don’t matter? And why do dealerships constantly sell trucks with lifts/tires/wheels for more than stock trucks? Even to grown adults and not college kids.
And what exactly are you referring to on the 15-20%? Are u talking about how much money has been payed so far on notes? Or the total of the lift/tires/rims?
 
$25k truck, + $1200 tires + $2500 lift + $3000 bumper/winch accessories = $31,700 total in the truck.

One year later, the truck is worth $23k maybe. The same truck without the mods is worth $22k.

Has to do with the assumption that people who modify cars tend to use them a bit harder (true in my case for sure), and the aftermarket parts cause excessive wear and tear.
Bottom line, you don't get back what you put into it...in cash. I've gotten back every penny in enjoyment, but that's how you have to look at it. $5k for fun, not so you can increase the value of your vehicle.
 
SilverBullet3g said:
I get what you’re saying about the bank and all but why do websites like KBB ask for all of the upgrades if they don’t matter? And why do dealerships constantly sell trucks with lifts/tires/wheels for more than stock trucks? Even to grown adults and not college kids.
And what exactly are you referring to on the 15-20%? Are u talking about how much money has been payed so far on notes? Or the total of the lift/tires/rims?
Click to expand...
KBB primarily asks for OEM upgrades. Sure, it does ask for aftermarket upgrades but play with it, the price changes are negligible.

Dealerships constantly sell trucks with lifts, tires, and wheels for more than stock trucks because they look better. It’s as simple as that. They are turn-key and most people don’t know better nor do they care. Being a grown adult vs a college student has nothing to do with it. They don’t give a shit if you’re 16 or 60. All they care about is wether or not you’ve got money or you’re financeable.

I’m talking about 15-20% ROI. This comes from experience in brokering sales for high-end and rare vehicles. You put 20k into a vehicle in aftermarket accessories and mods, expect to see no more than $1500-$2000 back when you sell. Banks know that cars are not good investments, so they’re not going to deem a car to be worth more simply because some schmuck put 10k worth of bumpers and lights on it and another schmuck thinks it’s pretty.
 
SilverBullet3g said:
Wym people in general? Shouldn’t that be why my truck was listed at 37 instead of 30 at stock for the same year model? I feel like my truck would easily list for more than what a stock 17 would list for.
And as far as the shocks possibly fixing my ride quality, I’m specifically referring to the way it takes bumps. I’m pretty sure that what I have now is really stiff stock shocks combined with my ProComp lift and that a shock kit would make them softer, right?
I know that shocks won’t fix the sluggishness of the truck and I’d have to get a regear and either OVTune of Pedal Commander or something.
Click to expand...
This is a bit of an ad video for King, but the information explaining shocks/springs/etc is really good.
Original link: https://youtu.be/FtAP774EaIA?t=1894
I skipped past where he talks about Solid Axle Suspension, for the obvious reason.


I'm not going to get into the money thing where this thread is going. I will add, that you're going to want to seriously calculate the cost of what you want do with the truck. If you go cheap (especially on suspension), you're going to run into the same issue every time of it not being as good as you want, and just constantly dumping cheap stuff into it. I had a friend in highschool that kept doing it, and it just ended in him hating the truck at the end and selling it.
 
I went with Fox Shocks from Accutune. While I'm at least a month out from getting the shocks I didn't blink much when dropping $5k on a suspension lift kit. This truck is going to be with me until it breaks or I retire. Less than 9 months with 15k miles and 9 national parks plus over 1k miles off road. I have zero commute so I'm building this to what I want it to be.

I wish you well on deciding what will be best for you and your situation.
 
Dealerships will always install aftermarket parts with the best markup. The guy who buys those trucks typically want the look, and they guy who wants the performance does the research and buys themselves. My dealership does 6" drop bracket lifts which is what you got I think - and those do not perform well. Otherwise they put the truck on hockey pucks for the more aggressive level. Personally I would only ever buy a modified used car if I literally had no other choice! If I were you, I'd eat the the loss and start fresh with a stock truck and not have the headache of reverting a lift like that. You never know what corners they may have cut to force somthing to work. Everyone says 3 in lift, I'd say do a 2 with some bilstein 5100 or 6112 because they perform great for the price and it's not to aggressive that you need to think about the geometry of the lift. Oh and can still fit 285s!
 
Hmm. I get what you’re saying. I’m at the point where I’m either going to drop 3-5k on good shocks such as King/Fox and then later get a regear such as Nitro with some sort of tune.
Or if I’m going to trade in then I’d rather just get a used Chevy or GMC with a small lift (2-3”) or just a leveling kit for now.
Reason I say get another brand truck is that if I’m going to stick with Toyota then I may as well dump a little bit of money into this one.
If I’m gonna trade in then I don’t wanna take a hit and trade my nice looking truck with all of its upgrades in for a stock Toyota when I know that a stock Chevy would ride just as smooth and could one day handle a lift.
Yea a Chevy wouldn’t hold value and would probably get a few less mpg but it would handle a 6” no problem.
My dad has had several new Chevys with 6” lifts, 3.5”, and I think a 5”. And none of them ever rode as bad as my Tacoma.
However, I am going to do everything I can to try and keep my Tacoma.
I got the truck because I wanted to be the last owner of it and one day build it a certain way. So I may as well save up some money and at least try getting Kings/Fox or maybe even Icon and if that doesn’t work at all then I’ll trade on a V8.

Also, I talked with a guy that works at King today and he said I could take my airbags off the back since I don’t use them anyways and that would make a big difference. And there’s also a possibility that my tires may be a little dry rotted from sitting on my backup truck (2006 F-150) for around 4-5 years and not being drove around hardly at all lol. So I might also drop down to 33s as well.
 
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