• Welcome to Tacoma3G.com, a free resource for 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma owners!

    This website is the passion-project of a USMC veteran/mechanic, @Tyler. I created Tacoma3G.com to share my knowledge of this subject with others and to provide like-minded folks with a comfortable space to ask questions and create 'build threads' within our Tacoma Forums. Now, if the format of this website is confusing to navigate for you, or if you're interested in my full mission and T3G's history, check out the Help and About pages.

nickyreno’s pro

Haha nah...he was replying to something I posted on this thread but didn't realize he started another thread. My bad.

Also...so I was looking at some wraps and installs...i definitely am not confident in doing it myself. How long and how well do they last? Local shop said started around $3k for my truck. I thought about full wrap for sake of even changing color of my truck...but...once it peels or chips or whatever...does it rapidly go downhill and need replacement?
Sorry! His comment was the only one on the forum about safariland holsters.. didn't notice right away that it wasn't his thread. Carry on sir!

No worries, I was so confused lol
 
Last edited:
Also...so I was looking at some wraps and installs...i definitely am not confident in doing it myself. How long and how well do they last? Local shop said started around $3k for my truck. I thought about full wrap for sake of even changing color of my truck...but...once it peels or chips or whatever...does it rapidly go downhill and need replacement?

Wraps are definitely temporary. You should be able to get 3 years out of a good install. Ceramic coatings will help them last longer. For protection, PPF is better and will last much longer, about 10 years. Again coatings will help ppf last longer. Should cost about the same to install.

You can also do both, then coat, for the ultimate in protection and longevity.
 
Replaced the shift knob today. Still on the fence. I've got something in the works to clean up the shifter trim.

C83BF36B-0795-40B2-9A06-FE91157A14BD.jpegB67D55ED-287C-4DC8-8605-2E590351FD92.jpeg
I did the bike grip! Did that just clamp on to the end of the shifter? I might have to make that work on mine. With Oury grips though...

-M

PS, look for me in Reno!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1079.JPG
    IMG_1079.JPG
    640.6 KB · Views: 109
I did the bike grip! Did that just clamp on to the end of the shifter? I might have to make that work on mine. With Oury grips though...

-M

PS, look for me in Reno!

Used a geta-grip blank adapter. Then had to modify the shift boot collar to be able to shift out of park.

I’ll keep an eye out. Spend most of my time in south reno and at the lake
 
Here ya go @CapnJack

So I ended up going with the Sharptones (the yellow ones). They just sound better, especially for a truck. I thought I would have preferred the red grilles on the Supertones but I actually think the yellow ones look pretty slick.

Here’s the size difference between the Supertones (red) and the Sharptones (yellow).

46106BA6-23B1-4FD3-B411-2D8CF0A4631C.jpeg

Here are the shots of the Supertones installed. The factory horn(s) are installed on the driver side, I chose to install one horn on both sides.

D2DB5D4E-730F-4DB2-8F5A-80BDA628A87D.jpeg 0B8F4ED7-A009-402C-9135-B61656EDA4D1.jpeg

Supertones demo:

View attachment 22664

Sharptones pics:

1A8E4BFF-6CA9-4356-9445-ABA09F9A5C8A.jpeg BCC719C0-FEF6-4EE5-B2B6-4D83568B76B8.jpeg

Demo:

View attachment 22667
 
I think I like the sharptones over the super. Which did you stick with?
 
The knobs are SO much easier to use now. Crazy how such a simple thing can make such a huge difference.
 
Ha Ha --- I ordered a pair also --- Thanks for such a great Idea
 
Ha Ha --- I ordered a pair also --- Thanks for such a great Idea

Aye buddy no problem, that’s what I’m here for. To share my brilliance with the world! It truly is a gift.
 
Did the ‘ol 4x4 tailgate badge delete mod. Shaving lbs for track days.

F285FFE7-597D-474B-B441-D12C5607302A.jpeg
 
Got myself a little father's day gift for being probably the best dad on the planet.

Ditch light brackets ordered.
32" light bar ordered.
Cubes ordered.
Power cables, wiring, in-lines and relays ordered.
Overland Equipped aux power bracket ordered.
Blue Sea Systems fuse block and circuit breaker ordered.

Time will tell if I have everything I need, way too much, or nothing at all. Really shooting from the hip on this whole thing.

Also planning on hydrodipping my mirrors in MultiCam Black. They are currently wrapped but as such, they're not perfect and I'm an asshole perfectionist. I'll also be dipping my front bumper - I've never seen that done before so hopefully it doesn't look like garbage.
 
I've been thinking about starting the blue sea fuse box and/or S-Pro style setup. Just haven't had time to start researching everything for it lol
 
So from my understanding I think switch pros suggests you avoid the blue seas fuse block as their system is integrally fused and sometimes adding the blue seas block can cause problems. So it was originally part of my build but I opted out. The winch goes straight to the battery, all the lights and accessories go to the spros and the blue seas was only going to add another potential point of failure. This was the conclusion I drew. Would love to know if you guys do know of a benefit of running the blue seas. (I believe spros recommends not using additional fuses / fuse blocks)
 
If they are internally fused, then there is no reason to use a fuse block. That makes it kind of nice.
 
Interesting. I'll definitely look into that when the time comes.
 
If they are internally fused, then there is no reason to use a fuse block. That makes it kind of nice.

Interesting. I'll definitely look into that when the time comes.

So I get that it’s not necessary to run an in-line into the blue seas, but is there a drawback to it?
 
So I get that it’s not necessary to run an in-line into the blue seas, but is there a drawback to it?
I don't know a lot about electric stuff, but I would assume there's no harm in that. If the inline fuse is a smaller amperage then I believe it would break before the blue seas. If it's higher than it won't serve any purpose really because the blue seas fuse would break first, unless the current coming through is higher than the rating of your inline fuse.
 
I wonder about this also considering a lot of light wiring harnesses come with inline fuses.
 
Fuses exist to protect the accessory, like lights from damage from being shorted out by the hot wire, (Red) being grounded out. There is no reason to run an inline fuse to a fuse block. If you put a Blue Seas terminal fuse on the battery, then you would be protecting the battery from any grounding out that may happen with the wire running from the battery to the fuse block. I hope that makes sense. If not, let me know and I can try to draw a diagram that will hopefully clear things up.
 
If you still wanna give it a go you can have mine. It's in your zip code and I won't be using it.
 
Back
Top