If theyre jus doin an oul change I wouldnt think so. They usually do a test drive after and they might notice then.
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Realistically, a lube tech/maintenance tech won't take the time of day to check or care. The only time the tune would be an issue is if you took it in for warranty work. At that point they'd be checking every box to find some way to weasel out of doing the job under warranty because warranty pay sucks by comparison to regular pay. These guys are paid flag rate so the faster they can get a car in and out the happier they are.
I feel that even at the diagnostic level at the dealership most aren't able to detect a tune unless they have first hand experience of driving a Tacoma daily with one. Even then I don't think they can prove anything. From VFTuner's site:
I received my new 2021 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4 last week and switched from the stock wheel to TRD Matte black rims with Falken Wildpeak AT3W. I have mud flaps and notice the tire rubs against the flap on turns at certain speeds and radius. I suspect taking the mud flap off will not fix the rubbing as the flap at the rub point is not that thick. What are my best options given I want to keep this wheel/tire setup? Do I need a lift or just let it rub out?
If yes to a lift, how small can I get away with? Do I have to do front and back or may be just 1" up front? Looking for options.
If yes to a lift, how small can I get away with? Do I have to do front and back or may be just 1" up front? Looking for options.
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Cheapest; ditch the mudflats or take a pair of heavy scissors or a soldering iron and trim off the area where the rub is occuring
most expensive: get a lift. Please feel free to peruse the three million posts on that
Yeah, lift is my last option. I want to do the least I can and only do front w/o doing the back, if possible, and have it look and perform well.Cheapest; ditch the mudflats or take a pair of heavy scissors or a soldering iron and trim off the area where the rub is occuring
most expensive: get a lift. Please feel free to peruse the three million posts on that
I'm also not confident removing the flaps will stop the rubbing against the inside wall either.Cheapest; ditch the mudflats or take a pair of heavy scissors or a soldering iron and trim off the area where the rub is occuring
most expensive: get a lift. Please feel free to peruse the three million posts on that
Remove the mud flaps.
Lift up the liner.
Wrap a 3lb framing hammer with a towel and tape.
Heat up the pinch weld so it's warm, will help reduce chances the paint will crack.
Hammer it down flat.
Alternative is cut slits every few inches and hammer down in sections.
Hit it with some primer and paint.
Heat the fender liner and push it flat.
Using a blunt object worked best. Even a roller, ball or roll of tape.
It will cool fast, so you want it to set flat before it cools.
If you can press it into place faster than it cools, it helps to spray cold water on it to set.
Once it's pretty flat and sets close to the metal, trim it to where you can tuck it in.
Start here.
Minor trimming.
Original link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1zDYOGCwnk&t
Fender molding.
Original link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPgfjqOe6y8&t
Pinch weld. They cut it. I didn't cut mine. Hammer the whole thing down without cracking the paint and it was fine.
Some people do cut part off. Some cut slits. It would be easier to hammer with the slits. I just liked the idea of not cutting.
Should start at 250 seconds in.
Original link: https://youtu.be/0v2h6pBzIrs?t=215
This guy cut slits and hit his inward. Just don't hit it like him. I took mine a lot further up and kept it all under the liner.
Original link: https://youtu.be/HVjMacrVjCk?t=39
One thing to keep in mind. This spot sticks up and I was rubbing on the tab. I tried to bend it further back. But if you do, you'll have to support the the other side of the fender or it'll sort of pry it out of line. Best thing is support it and push it up. Bend it down and straighten it out. Then create a new 90* bend up further back.
I'll take a pic of mine when I get out.
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Installed? That's awesome. Parts? Still very reasonable, provided they are not 4 years old and worn out from hard riding.
Dart330
2️⃣ Bronze
parts, brand new in the box, another question, I noticed that these have the RED covers, and I have seen other colors is there a difference?
5100's will be 5100's. They do sell the red boots separate. The Toyota lift kit has the red boots. Got a pic or any other details? When you say factory do any of the parts have a parts number? Maybe the seller calls it Factory lift kit because the dealer offered it? TRD Stickers? Are the fronts assembled? Does it look like it has grooves for adjustment?
Is it this?
Toyota Tacoma Tacoma TRD Lift Kit. Suspension Kit - PT84K35221 - Genuine Toyota Accessory
Add rugged style and tackle tough terrain with the Tacoma TRD Lift Kit. (MY 18 & 19 require an additional service part number #88214-04020-wire harness). 2 Front Lift / 1 Rear Lift. TRD-tuned Bilstein monotube shocks optimized for body control and ride comfort. The only lift kit available that...
parts.toyota.com
I've seen some people had ordered a TRD Lift Kit. It was a few years back. Think it was for the 4Runner. It was on clearance super cheap. Could it be that?
I know some parts are interchangeable enough to work with both the 4Runner/Tacoma.
$400 isn't bad. If you miss it, you can still get front and rear 5100's for around $425ish new.
At that point might as well throw in an AAL. I'm assuming the 2" lift has a 1" rear block.
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they keep the fluid cooler longer.
-shocks heat up as they cycle due to friction (like rubbing your hands together to warm them up.
-hot oil becomes less viscous (more thin, flows more easily)
-thin shock oil results in worsening of the shocks' ability to do their job of slowing motion
-More volume of shock fluid = ability to absorb more friction energy without a rise in temperature and consequent decrease in viscosity + extra valving options + cooling externally
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Yeah, that.
I tend to boil every thing down to the basics. I think it comes down to having to lead young sailors. Old habit.
Might be a take off. Sounds like the mechanics got to pocket some parts and is selling them for cash. Someone probably bought the truck with it on and wanted to go higher. That's a good deal for you if you're cool with it and don't want to go higher.
What are the negatives of remote resi's? Especially in cold weather? Can they freeze?
I'd assume they have freeze resistant oil in them. They'll only freeze at crazy temperatures. They'll always be stiffer if they've been sitting a while and will warm as you drive it. Think of snowmobiles. If they are super stiff, just wrap your hands around them and move them in a stroking motion.
flanabanana_87
2️⃣ Bronze
Is a cab mount chop required for a 3" lift? Keep getting conflicting stories on what size wheel spacers is needed to run stock wheels as well.
If your shocks are freezing, you've problems well beyond a rough ride.
Chop isn't required for a lift, only to fit certain sizes of tires.
33's on stock rims will fit without a cab mount chop on a 3 inch lift.
Ha! It did get to 20 below for quite a few weeks here in Montana the first year I got here (2016).
Depends on spring stiffness and weight.
Man I sure don't miss those days in Montana. I was in Great Falls from 2004 to 2006.
@Dirtboy2009, I was in San Diego from 2001 to 2014. Traded the beach for the mountains, and some sanity.
The mountains are beautiful, but the -40 wind chill and 3 feet of snow didn't agree with my Florida blood.
flanabanana_87
2️⃣ Bronze
Ok next noob question. Read somewhere that since I have crawl control I can't use diff spacers. Does that mean I need to keep it at 2.5"? TIA