Hey guys I’m new here, I have a new 2023 sr5 v6 tacoma. I’ve noticed since buying my truck the idle(especially in gear) is really rough. The tachometer never moves up or down though. The cab has a constant shake like your sitting in a massage chair. 2 dealers ran diagnostics without coming up with anything. Next step is for a FTS to come take a look at it in couple weeks. I’ll say that the idle has never gotten worse or better in the 3200 miles I’ve driven the truck. The longer it stays running the rougher the idle gets. Temperature over 45 degrees also seems to make it rougher. Any thoughts? No check engine light either!
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2023 Rough Idle
- Thread starter Sr5fenz
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23YOTA
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I have a 2023 TRD Sport that has a rough idle in drive with the AC on. I have found it idles better on top tier premium fuel. What’s really weird is mine was a smooth as silk until I got around 7,000 miles on it. This winter hasn’t been so bad but I’m sure it will start back with the rough idle as soon as I start using the AC.
If you have found out what’s causing your rough idle please let me know?
If you have found out what’s causing your rough idle please let me know?
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Interesting. The field tech looked at my truck told me it was normal which is complete b.s. so I’m left to figure it out on my own. A few owners on tacoma world have stated they had a rough idle in gear for the first 5k miles or so then it smoothed out. So I shall see. Your problem maybe sounds normal. Idle will get rougher with the a/c on. How smooth does yours idle in gear without a/c? Like you can’t even tell it’s running?
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23YOTA
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Mine idles smooth in drive without the AC on but I still don’t think it’s normal. I took mine to the dealer and a mechanic that I know said it’s not normal he says it’s to do with the low idle. Toyota lowered the idle to around 5.5 to meet strict emission standards and it’s caused the rough idle. What’s really strange mine idled perfect until around 7,000 miles.
The mechanic at the dealer wants me to bring it in and he wants to reset the ECM and see what happens. He seems to think since it didn’t start to around 7,000 miles it could just be as simple as a reset. I just haven’t done it yet cause I don’t want to deal with automatic transmission relearn process.
The mechanic at the dealer wants me to bring it in and he wants to reset the ECM and see what happens. He seems to think since it didn’t start to around 7,000 miles it could just be as simple as a reset. I just haven’t done it yet cause I don’t want to deal with automatic transmission relearn process.
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My dealer tried the ecm reset on mine and it nothing. Transmission still shifted fine but no difference in idle. Dealer told me same thing they told you. They lowered the idle speed on 2023 models for emissions I guess it makes sense but I don’t like the roughness in idle and I find it ridiculous
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I filled up with shell v-power 93 octane and added some amsoil fuel system treatment.
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Tomahawk Dog
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Look for a Top Tier Station HERE (fuel does matter)
stationfinder.toptiergas.com
New vehicle should not have low compression - bad valve - clogged infector.
Which are the main causes of a cylinder misfire.
If you are not getting a code it may just be low grade fuel.
Run 1-2 tanks of a Top Tier Fuel (Mid-Grade 87 octane minimum or Premium) to see if thing clear up.
TOP TIER™ Station Finder - Find a Station Near You
TOP TIER™ Station Finder. TOP TIER™ is recognized as a high-quality fuel performance standard developed by leading automotive and heavy-duty equipment manufacturers.
stationfinder.toptiergas.com
New vehicle should not have low compression - bad valve - clogged infector.
Which are the main causes of a cylinder misfire.
If you are not getting a code it may just be low grade fuel.
Run 1-2 tanks of a Top Tier Fuel (Mid-Grade 87 octane minimum or Premium) to see if thing clear up.
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Been rough for 4k miles, never had a check engine light. Only rough with foot on brake and in gear. I filled up with shell v-power 93 octane and am using amsoil fuel system treatments see if it helps. A Toyota field tech(engineer) looked at my truck last Tuesday said all is good with it even though I disagreeLook for a Top Tier Station HERE (fuel does matter)
TOP TIER™ Station Finder - Find a Station Near You
TOP TIER™ Station Finder. TOP TIER™ is recognized as a high-quality fuel performance standard developed by leading automotive and heavy-duty equipment manufacturers.
New vehicle should not have low compression - bad valve - clogged infector.
Which are the main causes of a cylinder misfire.
If you are not getting a code it may just be low grade fuel.
Run 1-2 tanks of a Top Tier Fuel (Mid-Grade 87 octane minimum or Premium) to see if thing clear up.
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Tomahawk Dog
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I have a 2022 it idles at 750 warm and 850 cold
They dropped the V6 in 2024 because of climate BS.
Dealers can only reset to the 2023 programming of idle.
Thats why we have no more V6 in 2024, Just the SUPER 4 Banger,... with a turbo or two for more air and BS conversion,............. I will rest my case
Someone with a tech stream can set it at the proper idle and most likely get rid of the low idle studder.
Or you can only use AC when your driving,.... which makes mother nature happy,... you answered your own problem,... or the tech did.
In 1962 if I turned down the idle on my V8 and the AC kicked in it would do the same thing,..........
It would studder. or even die due to the carburetors set amount of fuel and ignition timing.
Todays computers will give just enough data to the fuel infection / timing to allow studder but not allow it to "die".
The tech knows this ,........... but his hands are tied. (until he gets off the clock)
They dropped the V6 in 2024 because of climate BS.
Dealers can only reset to the 2023 programming of idle.
Thats why we have no more V6 in 2024, Just the SUPER 4 Banger,... with a turbo or two for more air and BS conversion,............. I will rest my case
Someone with a tech stream can set it at the proper idle and most likely get rid of the low idle studder.
Or you can only use AC when your driving,.... which makes mother nature happy,... you answered your own problem,... or the tech did.
In 1962 if I turned down the idle on my V8 and the AC kicked in it would do the same thing,..........
It would studder. or even die due to the carburetors set amount of fuel and ignition timing.
Todays computers will give just enough data to the fuel infection / timing to allow studder but not allow it to "die".
The tech knows this ,........... but his hands are tied. (until he gets off the clock)
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Tomahawk Dog
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Try this,
when at a red light or a stand still just put it in neutral
Something tells me.............
the manual transmission guys have no issue at all.
when at a red light or a stand still just put it in neutral
Something tells me.............
the manual transmission guys have no issue at all.
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23YOTA
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Tomahawk Dog, that's exactly what’s going on with my 23 when I push up in neutral it goes from 5.5 to 7.5 with AC on and idles as smooth as glass. I need to see if I can find someone to tune mine to 22 programming or someone with a Tech Stream.
Where will I find someone with a Tech Stream independent shop?
Where will I find someone with a Tech Stream independent shop?
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Tomahawk Dog
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Some owners actually have bought one.
Post what city you're in and maybe someone will chime in.....................
Tech streams can do alot.
Source: https://youtu.be/81aSx_rWcXQ?t=344
Post what city you're in and maybe someone will chime in.....................
Tech streams can do alot.
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No it made zero difference. So I think I’m on to something with my truck. My engine was making a god awful ratcheting /grinding noise coming from the drivers side valve cover. I traced the source of the noise down with a stethoscope. The noise is coming from my pcv valve. So loud and worse when in gear . I compared it to my buddies 2020 v6 taco and his makes zero noise from the pcv valve. I’m beginning to think I have a faulty pcv valve from the factory. After reading all th symptoms of a bad pcv, rough idle is one of them. Going to buy an oem one from my dealer and replace it and see what happens.
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I will can’t post the audio here for some reason. Absolutely terrible noise. Check your truck., get it warm up to temp. Set the brake and put it drive and listen to the engine on drivers side and see if you start to hear a loud (out of place with the rest of the ticking and clatter) ratcheting grinding noise starts/stops every second or so on and off on and off
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Yes but this noise you will recognize as being completely unrelated to all the other typical ticks. Just focus on the drivers side valve cover towards the rear
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So were you able to get a new PCV valve and did it fix the idle and noise?
I have the 2023 V6 as well and it is the noisiest V6 I have ever owned. It's worse when both sets of injectors are working but supposedly a characteristic of this engine. My idle seems very high when cold but if it's been running a minute when you shift into D or R it lowers. My main problem is with the surging when you first back out of the driveway or carport. Backing out with you foot on the brake when you turn the steering wheel a little or a lot the engine revs a little increasing your speed. At the first dealer service visit they checked it and proclaimed it normal for this vehicle. I believe it is a safety issue and will file a complaint with NHTSA as this could cause a minor accident. My 09 4cyl Tacoma did not do this nor any other car I've owned. The computer over corrects for the slight drain from the power steering pump.
I have not had a problem with rough idle in gear with this new truck. When purchasing a truck in 2009, the Ford Ranger 4cyl we looked at used to shake the truck stopped at a light. We were going to order a V6 Ranger and found the 4cyl Tacoma and it initially idled smooth stopped at a light. Sometimes it idled rough and I'd be tempted to shift to neutral at a light. It seems like the weather made a difference on that truck, maybe barometric pressure or something because most most of the time it idled smoothly.
I have the 2023 V6 as well and it is the noisiest V6 I have ever owned. It's worse when both sets of injectors are working but supposedly a characteristic of this engine. My idle seems very high when cold but if it's been running a minute when you shift into D or R it lowers. My main problem is with the surging when you first back out of the driveway or carport. Backing out with you foot on the brake when you turn the steering wheel a little or a lot the engine revs a little increasing your speed. At the first dealer service visit they checked it and proclaimed it normal for this vehicle. I believe it is a safety issue and will file a complaint with NHTSA as this could cause a minor accident. My 09 4cyl Tacoma did not do this nor any other car I've owned. The computer over corrects for the slight drain from the power steering pump.
I have not had a problem with rough idle in gear with this new truck. When purchasing a truck in 2009, the Ford Ranger 4cyl we looked at used to shake the truck stopped at a light. We were going to order a V6 Ranger and found the 4cyl Tacoma and it initially idled smooth stopped at a light. Sometimes it idled rough and I'd be tempted to shift to neutral at a light. It seems like the weather made a difference on that truck, maybe barometric pressure or something because most most of the time it idled smoothly.
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Yes I installed a new Toyota genuine pcv valve, made zero difference on how the engine runs, although it did seem to fix the noise . The vibrations are horrible in this truck If it doesn’t smoothen out soon I’ll prob sell it. I don’t think I can live with this it’s extremely annoying and down right embarrassing. Toyota has been of zero help, both dealers and corporate. Every issue short of the engine blowing up is considered normal to Toyota.
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Nope, i opened another case with Toyota. I’m honestly getting pissed at this point. Truck also has strong vibration on acceleration which seems to be getting worse
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Yeah it might come to that. This is my 5th 3rd gen Tacoma, so add that up with the money I spent with Toyota. I told corporate manager that , don’t tell me this vibration and rough idle are normal when none of my other 3rd gen’s did this. Can’t B.S me on that. I told them I don’t agree with the Field technician and that more steps need to be taken to fix my truck other then hooking up a scan tool(seems to be the only thing dealers know how to do).
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Tomahawk Dog
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Time for Toyota to step up,
Could be a loose plug (happens) Bad Spark plug or Coil pack.
If a code does not appear this could be it, ask for a plug change and coil pack test.
Might fix the issue, if its more than that then its fuel injector test time.
If none of the above, then Toyota might just do a deep dive depending on management.
I have seen them replace a motor after so many hours of troubleshooting as they soon find out its an issue not worth the time labor.
Could be a loose plug (happens) Bad Spark plug or Coil pack.
If a code does not appear this could be it, ask for a plug change and coil pack test.
Might fix the issue, if its more than that then its fuel injector test time.
If none of the above, then Toyota might just do a deep dive depending on management.
I have seen them replace a motor after so many hours of troubleshooting as they soon find out its an issue not worth the time labor.
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Tomahawk Dog
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Option 2,
If your truck is totally stock.
Go to another dealer and ask to test drive a used/new 3rd Gen in a different model.
Tell them you wanted a different model but there were none to be found when you bought yours.
If you find one you like and it runs well,................. Trade.
You may lose a bit of money but they get the problem and you get happy.
IF THEY SAY your truck has a mechanical issue ASK THEM TO FIX IT.
If your truck is totally stock.
Go to another dealer and ask to test drive a used/new 3rd Gen in a different model.
Tell them you wanted a different model but there were none to be found when you bought yours.
If you find one you like and it runs well,................. Trade.
You may lose a bit of money but they get the problem and you get happy.
IF THEY SAY your truck has a mechanical issue ASK THEM TO FIX IT.
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Wouldn’t a bad spark plug or coil throw and engine light? I’m thinking more along the lines of a motor mount. At 1500 rpm in gear I get a nasty vibration in the floor board. Vibrates to some extent at any rpm but 1500 is the worst. When coming to a stop in gear you can physically see the seat and steering wheel slightly shaking and feel strong vibrations coming through the cab with it slightly shaking. Tachometer doesn’t reflect the vibration. It stays steady at 550-600 rpm
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23YOTA
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My thought is make Toyota make it right you shouldn’t lose money cause they don’t want to fix it. You can take it back to the dealer and leave it and refuse to pick it up until they fix it. I could speculate forever what it could be but the bottom line is a Toyota technician should be able to figure this out.
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