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Vibrations

Eagle1912

2️⃣ Bronze
I have a stock 2022 Dbl Cab SR5 4WD. It has 63000 miles. I just put a set of OEM-sized Continentals on it and noticed a vibration that comes in around 55mph. Brought it back the shop and they say that they re-balanced but it didn't help. Then I went to another shop where they re-mounted and re-balanced with no change. Went back to the first place and they replaced all 4 tires with new, no change. What's next?
 
Maybe a bent wheel. I would check your wheels closely. I have seen vibrations like this caused by a bent wheel. I would take a close look at your wheels to make sure that is not the problem.

Did they do a road force balance on your tires? Some tires need to be road force balanced to get the vibrations out.

I know you said you are stock, but I would still do the needle bearing test to eliminate it as a problem. Usually only lifted trucks have the needle bearing issue but it is worth a check as it is super easy to check. When you are experiencing the vibration (on a straight road) put it into 4-hi (avoid doing any turning while you are in 4-hi) and see if the vibration goes away in 4-hi. If the vibration goes away it is your needle bearing.

I do not think the rear shocks would cause a vibration. When they give you trouble it is usually more of an uncontrolled bouncing feel rather than a vibration.

Let us know what you find out after checking those things.
 
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A rim bent during the initial tire change did cross my mind. However, the vibration doesn't come in until 55mph and the wheels were removed 3 times and put back on. Any bent rim would have had to be put back on the rear axle each time or the vibration would have moved to the steering wheel. I guess that's possible. I need to find a place that can do a road force balance
 
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If they weren't road force balanced, then IMO they weren't balanced. I guess I take it for granted that my tire guy is fantastic and will even match mount tires if necessary. Definitely get them balanced properly or rotate your tires front to rear and see if the vibration moves. If you accelerate to say 70mph does the vibration go away? When I've needed wheels rebalanced there was typically a range where they would shake and then beyond that range they would be smooth.
 
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OK...found the issue. After doing the Load Force Balance, they found witness marks on the back of the rims where the guy who changed the rear brakes beat on them with a hammer. Dealer wants $1427.45 for two new rims. Now the fun starts with the guy who did the brakes.
 
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That will do it. Won't be a fun process to get them replaced and ridiculous it happened to begin with, but they caused the damage so they should make it right.

In the future, definitely try to source tire shops with nice Hunter equipment and road force balancing.
 
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OK...found the issue. After doing the Load Force Balance, they found witness marks on the back of the rims where the guy who changed the rear brakes beat on them with a hammer. Dealer wants $1427.45 for two new rims. Now the fun starts with the guy who did the brakes.
Well finding the issue is half the battle. So, that part is good. I hope the brake guy steps up and makes it right.
 
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Did the brakes get done at the same time as the first set of tires? Also why did you need rear drum brakes at 60k miles? They should last much longer.
 
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Bottman;
I regularly deal with site developers and their contractors. If this guy wants to get cute, filing a claim will cost me lunch for one of the attorneys that I deal with regularly. If he replaces the rims I will settle for that. If not, there will be litigation for the cost of the rims, the cost of the 3rd party balance, the cost of the 4th party load force balancing, the cost of my PTO used up to deal with all this stuff, court filing costs, legal costs, and whatever else I can think of. Then there will be complaints to the Better Business Bureau, Tire Rack (installer was one of their recommended installers), and the tire dealership franchise. I don't really want to go there but, in Harry's words, "go ahead, make my day".

Drizzojh:
I had vibrations under braking, but not in the steering wheel. Brake guy (also tire installer) pulled the rears and told me that there were signs of overheating which I was told could have warped the drums and caused the vibration. If this is true, I could probably attribute it to several firewood runs in the heat of the summer where I had a 625 lb u-haul trailer (no brakes) loaded with 1500 lb of wood with another several hundred pounds of wood in the bed and 2 people in the cab going through the hilliest terrain in the state on NJ. On one of the runs I did notice that something felt a little "different" near the end of the hilly part. The new rotors solved that problem.

The kicker is that the place who did the brakes and the tires reportedly has a Load Force Balancer. If this is true, he could have saved everybody grief, effort, and cost of replacing the tires by simply owning up and replaced the rims. Instead, he took the cheap way out hoping it was the tires where this didn't seem likely because they were Continentals, not some off-brand.
 
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Back in the day steel wheels would sometimes be trued up. I am not sure how well it would work on an aluminum wheel. Do you have steel wheels?
 
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The stock SR5 wheels are a dime a dozen online, can usually find a set for a couple hundred with tires. IMO if they want to make it right, they should offer you x amount of money to grab whatever wheels you want. If stock is your style, the OEM Off-Road wheels are the same but with a little more style, but the newer bronze '22 Trail Edition wheels are probably the coolest and would work very well with MGM exterior.
 
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The stock SR5 wheels are a dime a dozen online, can usually find a set for a couple hundred with tires. IMO if they want to make it right, they should offer you x amount of money to grab whatever wheels you want. If stock is your style, the OEM Off-Road wheels are the same but with a little more style, but the newer bronze '22 Trail Edition wheels are probably the coolest and would work very well with MGM exterior.
I don't want to roll the dice on buying from an old lady who only drove to church on Sundays or risk getting some OEM wanna-be that isn't much better than the bent ones that I already have. I was tempted to work something out to get the bronze because I like that look. However, after months of messing with this, I just want to get the truck back the way it was and part company with this vendor.
 
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Good thing they are replacing them.

But yes a good wheel repair shop can straighten wheels.
I don't not consider myself a vindictive person. That said, there is a point when enough is enough and its time for both barrels. This was getting very close to that point, especially considering 7 trips back to the vendor following the trips for the initial tire install and brake service plus two trips to other tire places trying to figure it out. The manager of the original facility was understanding, almost to the point of being passive so I chose to cut my losses, get the rims, and part company.
 
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Ok...still dealing with this with 2 new rear rims and a full replacement set of tires. Finally traced it down to 2 bent axle flanges. Any ideas how that could have happened with no memorable impacts, no off road and basically a commuter vehicle?
 
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I reviewd all the bills on this. When they did the brakes they "inspected, cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes. No mention was made of problems with the drums. When I came back a few weeks later with vibration during braking and vibration around 55mph without braking, they told me the drums were burnt and that could have warped them. They replaced the drums. Charging me only for parts. That fixed the vibration during braking but not at speed. I now suspect that they damaged the original drums, and the axle flanges when they did the original inspection by smacking the drums to break them free. In short, they didn't warp from overheating, they overheated because they were bent. Replacing the drum fixed the vibration during braking but the bent flanges remain.

Does this make sense?
 
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I reviewd all the bills on this. When they did the brakes they "inspected, cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes. No mention was made of problems with the drums. When I came back a few weeks later with vibration during braking and vibration around 55mph without braking, they told me the drums were burnt and that could have warped them. They replaced the drums. Charging me only for parts. That fixed the vibration during braking but not at speed. I now suspect that they damaged the original drums, and the axle flanges when they did the original inspection by smacking the drums to break them free. In short, they didn't warp from overheating, they overheated because they were bent. Replacing the drum fixed the vibration during braking but the bent flanges remain.
Sorry to hear about your continued issue. This is a reminder to me of why I do most of my maintenance myself. These shops have to take the shortest path to getting the autos out the door ASAP and this leads to sometimes taking a brute force shortcut. I feel for you.
 
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Sorry to hear about your continued issue. This is a reminder to me of why I do most of my maintenance myself. These shops have to take the shortest path to getting the autos out the door ASAP and this leads to sometimes taking a brute force shortcut. I feel for you.
They said that they would replace the axles for free, but they want me to sign a release. Since they diagnosed the problem and they say that the work is something that they do, I am wondering what the release says. Stay tuned!
 
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So the issue has lessened but it still there. So they (1) did something wrong; (2) simply tried the rebend the flanges back place and returned the new parts they showed me, except for the backing plates because they are visible; (3) something else is wrong. Between the time I put into this and cost of 3rd party guys trying to figure it out, I am done with this. I could start be going to the dealer and have them figure it out at $180 an hour, pay to get it fixed, and hope that the court will get me a refund.

Well, I don't have the energy for all that so I am moving up to a 2026 Tundra
 
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