Detailing The Ultimate "Ask A Detailer" Thread

[nickyreno]

How would you recommend bringing back a carbon fiber hood that has clouded up?
I used a cheap orbital buffer and rubbing compound and it came out pretty good, but you can still kind of see some areas that need a little more work.

You’ll need to use a heavier compound or more abrasive pad, or both. Just be careful you’re not removing too much clear coat. Usually those aftermarket hoods have a very thick layer of clear coat so you should be okay, but food for thought.

If you see pad haze afterwards, just go back with a finishing pad and finishing compound and it should clear up great.

 

[Project_Trooper]

Next weekend itll be my trucks first detailing. I have used Chemical Guys products on all my other cars and boats. Their products and YouTube videos are top notch and have never steered me wrong!

 

[nickyreno]

Next weekend itll be my trucks first detailing. I have used Chemical Guys products on all my other cars and boats. Their products and YouTube videos are top notch and have never steered me wrong!

Well... my professional opinion disagrees 100%. Chemical Guys has tossed their R&D to the curb and invested itself in the marketing game. That becomes quite apparent when you understand what is actually in the products.

To each their own of course.

 

[Project_Trooper]

Well... my professional opinion disagrees 100%. Chemical Guys has tossed their R&D to the curb and invested itself in the marketing game. That becomes quite apparent when you understand what is actually in the products.

To each their own of course.

Really?? I thought the opposite of that...are you more concerned with that their products don’t do the job or what? I’m curious because I love detailing cars on the side and being able to keep my cars at show level and always looking for the best option.
I appreciate your feedback and opinion! Always helpful to have another opinion.

 

[Fix14wd]

You’ll need to use a heavier compound or more abrasive pad, or both. Just be careful you’re not removing too much clear coat. Usually those aftermarket hoods have a very thick layer of clear coat so you should be okay, but food for thought.

If you see pad haze afterwards, just go back with a finishing pad and finishing compound and it should clear up great.

Yeah, had some haze and went back over it. Cleared up greatly compared to when I started out. Going to be selling that car so I just wanted it to look good, not going to put a lot more effort into it. But out of curiosity, what would be a heavier compound than rubbing compound?

 

[nickyreno]

Really?? I thought the opposite of that...are you more concerned with that their products don’t do the job or what? I’m curious because I love detailing cars on the side and being able to keep my cars at show level and always looking for the best option.
I appreciate your feedback and opinion! Always helpful to have another opinion.

For one: What in the actual fuck is “Hydroslick Intense Gloss SIO2 Ceramic Coating Hyperwax”? That sounds like a 5 year old was asked to name the most epic detailing product ever. It’s like the detailing product version of a Fast and the Furious movie. Reality is, there is no such thing and they’re just using trigger words to reel in people who don’t know any better.

Chem Guys and CeramicPro are both guilty of abusing the Mohs hardness scale to sell ceramic products. You’ll see them promote the hardness of their coatings to trick consumers into thinking they actually have the hardness of a diamond. The truth here is:

When it comes to automotive paint, a ceramic coating can’t replace the physical characteristics of a substrate, it can only amplify a substrates original characteristics.

They know this. But they also know that you don’t. So they broadcast 9H and 10H like it’s some sort of accomplishment. Additionally, they’ll over-hype the longevity of their coatings knowing damn well most people will either sell, crash, or void a coatings warranty with improper maintenance procedures within 3 years of it being applied.

Their polishing compounds are all filler. So instead of actually making a good polishing compound, they just load them with heavy carrier oils to fill in scratches and make you feel like you’re getting a lot of correction out of it. This does two things: lies, and creates a terrible surface environment for high quality coatings to bond with the clear coat.

That’s just the surface. I should stop while I’m ahead because I could go all day with this shit lol.

 

[nickyreno]

Yeah, had some haze and went back over it. Cleared up greatly compared to when I started out. Going to be selling that car so I just wanted it to look good, not going to put a lot more effort into it. But out of curiosity, what would be a heavier compound than rubbing compound?

Polishing compounds are made of abrasives, so the more abrasives in a compound means the more cut you’ll get (the better they will remove deeper scratches). Typically these heavier compounds will leave a haze, that can be removed by a second pass of polishing using a finishing polish (that has less/finer abrasives).

Using Feynlab’s compounds for example: they offer a Heavy Cut compound, a Medium Polishing Compound, and a Final Finish Compound. All are non-diminishing.

 

[Fix14wd]

Cool, Thanks Nick! Appreciate the responses. Pretty cool of you to offer all the advice you have, I've read through the thread start to finish. Good info!

 

[nickyreno]

Cool, Thanks Nick! Appreciate the responses. Pretty cool of you to offer all the advice you have, I've read through the thread start to finish. Good info!

Of course man, I’m happy to help! I know the world of detailing has quickly become vast and convoluted and because of that, it’s hard to know where to start. There’s a plethora of bad informtion out there, both created by consumers and the industry leaders alike. I just want to bring clarity to as much of it as I can so you guys aren’t getting ripped off or wasting your time.

 

[XxMagpulxX]

Nice garage!! Mine would look like that if it didnt have to double as a wood shop and auto shop. Im gonna do the epoxy floors in a few weeks. I did it at my last house and I loved it. Swiss Trax wont work for me due to hot metal melting plastic.

 

[nickyreno]

Nice garage!! Mine would look like that if it didnt have to double as a wood shop and auto shop. Im gonna do the epoxy floors in a few weeks. I did it at my last house and I loved it. Swiss Trax wont work for me due to hot metal melting plastic.

Thanks man. That reminds me I should update that garage thread. I certainly didn’t look the way it does when I bought the house last April lol.

Epoxy is cool, but if was going to do something other than Swisstrax I would stain the concrete. Cheaper, stronger, easier to touch up, more versatile, pick your own colors, etc.

 

[XxMagpulxX]

I need a bigger garage, I thought 3 car was going to be big enough, now Im thinking like 10 car. I only need to hit the Powerball. LOL

 

[Project_Trooper]

For one: What in the actual fuck is “Hydroslick Intense Gloss SIO2 Ceramic Coating Hyperwax”? That sounds like a 5 year old was asked to name the most epic detailing product ever. It’s like the detailing product version of a Fast and the Furious movie. Reality is, there is no such thing and they’re just using trigger words to reel in people who don’t know any better.

Chem Guys and CeramicPro are both guilty of abusing the Mohs hardness scale to sell ceramic products. You’ll see them promote the hardness of their coatings to trick consumers into thinking they actually have the hardness of a diamond. The truth here is:

When it comes to automotive paint, a ceramic coating can’t replace the physical characteristics of a substrate, it can only amplify a substrates original characteristics.

They know this. But they also know that you don’t. So they broadcast 9H and 10H like it’s some sort of accomplishment. Additionally, they’ll over-hype the longevity of their coatings knowing damn well most people will either sell, crash, or void a coatings warranty with improper maintenance procedures within 3 years of it being applied.

Their polishing compounds are all filler. So instead of actually making a good polishing compound, they just load them with heavy carrier oils to fill in scratches and make you feel like you’re getting a lot of correction out of it. This does two things: lies, and creates a terrible surface environment for high quality coatings to bond with the clear coat.

That’s just the surface. I should stop while I’m ahead because I could go all day with this shit lol.

I appreciate the feedback - not what I was expecting at all. Good to know for the next time I need detailing supplies. Definitely going to have to bookmark this for reference on products from now on.
Appreciate the help!

 

[3cent.Taco]

For one: What in the actual fuck is “Hydroslick Intense Gloss SIO2 Ceramic Coating Hyperwax”? That sounds like a 5 year old was asked to name the most epic detailing product ever. It’s like the detailing product version of a Fast and the Furious movie.

Don’t mean to derail the topic, but this line is . I never looked into the Chemical Guys for product, so this the first time reading one of their product names.

 

[hallux]

What do you recommend to get heavy stuck on shit that isn't coming off with a normal wash? Probably some tar and such...

 

[nickyreno]

What do you recommend to get heavy stuck on shit that isn't coming off with a normal wash? Probably some tar and such...

For tar: Gyeon Tar
For protein based contaminants: Gyeon Bug and Grime

 

[hallux]

For tar: Gyeon Tar
For protein based contaminants: Gyeon Bug and Grime

Thanks. I ended up purchasing a kit off of Amazon from Chemical Guys - came with a bit of stuff. Washed and waxed my truck and my wifes civic the other day, ran into some minor issues with water spot son the windows that were a bitch to get off, I think that had to do with temperature of the glass.

 

[nickyreno]

Thanks. I ended up purchasing a kit off of Amazon from Chemical Guys - came with a bit of stuff. Washed and waxed my truck and my wifes civic the other day, ran into some minor issues with water spot son the windows that were a bitch to get off, I think that had to do with temperature of the glass.

Kamikaze makes a great waterspot remover, so does Feynlab. But yes, glass should be cool to the touch beforehand. In fact, the entire vehcile should be in a cool shaded area for any type of washing.

 

[Zaid]

@nickyreno whats the sequence of washing then detailing a new car. I recently bought a 2021 tacoma and looking to give its first wash and detail. I read the previous thread of what to buy and now im confused on the sequence. When to decontaminate? When to polish with the compound? Should i use the course Rupe with the heavy cut compound from feynlab, followed by the finishing foam Rupe with the medium polishing compound, and the white ultra fine polishing foam Rupe followed by the feynlab final finish. Afterwards should i apply the ceramic lite followed by overcoat V2? I appreciate all of the knowledge you have shared in this forum.

 

[TCOTUE]

I was hoping there was a thread like this! I'm a novice when it comes to detailing. I have friends in the industry who do it professionally. So that's who I usually turn to for advice. I'll throw some pics in the next post of my first detail of my last car. After I owned that car, I swore I'd never own a black car/truck ever again. Black looks amazing when clean and coated, but quickly diminishes in appearance. I still need to break out my PC DA on the BBP, but my backing plate failed. Any recommendations @nickyreno ? My arsenal consists of Meg's 105/205, Jescar Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 for protection.

 

[TCOTUE]

Here was my first detail on my tsx, it lived a hard life of automatics before I got it. Now I 2 bucket wash, foam cannon, straight line wipes to reduce marring. This paint was trashed, but came out pretty decent for a first timer! Megs 105/205 combo, then ipa wipe down, jescar with 2 day cure, then 2 applications of Collinite 845. At the time I didn’t have the funds to ceramic coat it, this was deemed sufficient for my results I was trying to obtain. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated!

 

[nickyreno]

I was hoping there was a thread like this! I'm a novice when it comes to detailing. I have friends in the industry who do it professionally. So that's who I usually turn to for advice. I'll throw some pics in the next post of my first detail of my last car. After I owned that car, I swore I'd never own a black car/truck ever again. Black looks amazing when clean and coated, but quickly diminishes in appearance. I still need to break out my PC DA on the BBP, but my backing plate failed. Any recommendations @nickyreno ? My arsenal consists of Meg's 105/205, Jescar Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 for protection.

I use an aluminum backing plate from Excel on my Rupes. I like it.

 

[nickyreno]

Here was my first detail on my tsx, it lived a hard life of automatics before I got it. Now I 2 bucket wash, foam cannon, straight line wipes to reduce marring. This paint was trashed, but came out pretty decent for a first timer! Megs 105/205 combo, then ipa wipe down, jescar with 2 day cure, then 2 applications of Collinite 845. At the time I didn’t have the funds to ceramic coat it, this was deemed sufficient for my results I was trying to obtain. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated!

Looks outstanding!

 

[TCOTUE]

I use an aluminum backing plate from Excel on my Rupes. I like it.

SWEET! I'll look into it! Can't wait to order a new plate and see how well the BBP shines up. I can tell it's been a automatic wash truck prior to my ownership. I did a quick clay bar upon purchase, then found out my backing plate foam had deteriorated. Went ahead and threw a light coat of Collinite on it for some protection.

 

[NVTaco]

Advice on long term storage of 'leather' seats? Getting ready to put my rear seats in a storage unit for long term storage, anything I should do to prep the 'leather'?

 

[Zaid]

@nickyreno whats the sequence of washing then detailing a new car. I recently bought a 2021 tacoma and looking to give its first wash and detail. I read the previous thread of what to buy and now im confused on the sequence. When to decontaminate? When to polish with the compound? Should i use the course Rupe with the heavy cut compound from feynlab, followed by the finishing foam Rupe with the medium polishing compound, and the white ultra fine polishing foam Rupe followed by the feynlab final finish. Afterwards should i apply the ceramic lite followed by overcoat V2? I appreciate all of the knowledge you have shared in this forum.

@nickyreno also if you have any time YouTube videos to recommend from start to finish!

 

[nickyreno]

Advice on long term storage of 'leather' seats? Getting ready to put my rear seats in a storage unit for long term storage, anything I should do to prep the 'leather'?

Put a good leather conditioner on them and then wrap them in a sealable bag with a few silica packets. Big risk is rodents. Climate controlled storage would also be preferable.

@nickyreno also if you have any time YouTube videos to recommend from start to finish!

Watch the full detail series of Matt Mooreman’s GT3RS. 20 episodes long. Tons of good info here, both from Matt and Todd at Esoteric. Here’s the first video:

Original link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=36QlyP83nkk

 

[NVTaco]

Put a good leather conditioner on them and then wrap them in a sealable bag with a few silica packets. Big risk is rodents. Climate controlled storage would also be preferable.

Any advice on decent leather conditioning products?

 

[nickyreno]

Leatherique is the best in the business @NVTaco

 

[NVTaco]

Leatherique is the best in the business

Oh, not Armor All or Chemical Brothers? Thanks!