T3G Approved! - Switch pro install | 3rd Generation Toyota Tacomas — Tacoma3G.com

T3G Approved! Switch pro install

Tyler

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Sweet! Good to have installs coming in. I’ll link it in the navigation bar when it’s done.
 

Tyler

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Sweet! I love reading installs, can’t wait.
 

Taco_primo

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Ok, well here it goes. It’s not complete......I am going to do some under hood clean up soon, this is it for now though.

First off, due to me having crawl control, the SDHQ Mount needed a bit of modification. The highlighted area needed to be removed
1DB87541-3B5D-42BF-B076-BD4EF3BD244F.jpeg
2A1175BC-76DF-47AB-9EEA-0D8E1432593C.jpeg
I used a file to do some metal cleanup after.

Here you can see the right clearance after trimming.
1897E0CB-6BC3-4874-899E-F0A47C624E4F.jpeg

Here it is mounted.
B5723777-6CFE-492C-A3DD-997435CF12C6.jpeg

Next I prepped the dash

start by removing the kick panel on the left by removing this plastic nut with your fingers, then pop off the first door sill and the kick panel.7EFA9D4A-DEFA-440C-A84C-267A8FB04846.jpeg

That will expose the 3 screws you will need to remove 10mm socket works great.
F4D970EE-8842-4959-8B46-06C6B5588DA4.jpeg2DAB63AD-8174-4AAD-B336-B76EC4956A42.jpeg
gently pop this lower panel out after removing the 3 screws.



Now this part will only apply if you are doing the SDHQ dash mount.

30142427-24BB-48D2-B618-DFC70916B512.jpeg

Screw in the 4 threaded studs supplied with the Switch-Pros mounting hardware and then put on the small plastic plate.
D5E3A140-7EFE-4651-8E9A-194F1317C207.jpeg

Next you will install the larger clear backing plate and install the 4 provided screws
A2FCD120-E05D-4645-9C43-8C585D3F2DED.jpeg

Ok so next I routed the blue ignition wire into the cab through the firewall in the harness grommet.

You’ll have to cut a slit in the grommet.
2991CA04-A668-4FDE-A1E6-7DB802FCC19F.jpegThis is on the drivers side next to the brake master.

I just got a metal coat hangar and straightened it out. From inside the cab, push the hangar through the hole you created and tape the wire to the end, after it’s nice and taped on, you will pull the hangar back into the cab and the wire should follow. You will have to do this with the switch harness as well, that’s how controller will hook up. I also took some of the braided look and heat shrink and covered the wire for protection.

8CB41F96-2ED7-4918-B020-453DE0211A0D.jpeg

Now for an ignition source, I just got out my multimeter and started poking on plugs of the same gauge wire until I found one.


Under the kick panel on the left you will see this plug and there is a lime green wire, I just cut back some of the shielding and tapped into this wire.
276D2730-24A4-4737-BED8-CC3633307191.jpeg

Next I had to hook up the white wire to a light source, I chose to tap into my head lights, this way when my headlights are on the panel will dim.

It’s the red wire on your low beam plug.
88FB2E8D-1E32-4192-B8FF-1FD39A6018A8.jpeg


Now i hooked everything up and made sure I got power to the panel and it was on and functional.

3A10F7DA-C585-4121-B051-7FF401D2E838.jpeg

Now that you have everything installed and functional, it’s time to wire your accessories. I am running a rough country 30” light bar, Baja designs squadron pro fogs for ditch lights and a ARB dual compressor. 0AADC41D-C79D-4863-B7BC-DFF693A0BFE5.jpeg

Now it’s actually really easy. For my light bar, I cut out the relay harness and got it down to just the 2 wires. Switch 1 is a brown wire, you connect the brown to the power wire from the light bar(i soldered it) you can use butt connectors if you want. You will have to crimp on a eyelet connector to the ground wire and then just ground to a body ground.

Feel free to ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer.



Oh and this is the mess that I still have to clean up
78AF398C-96F8-4481-B4BC-5A6C2BE86CA5.jpeg

Just waiting on a busbar and distribution block to clean it all up.
 
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Tyler

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Great write-up!! Gonna add it to the tutorial bar at the top of the site.
 

Texas_Taco

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Damn Good write up. I didn’t think of trimming the mount when I installed mine because of the harness on the fender. Good idea. But I wired mine differently. I hooked the blue ignition wire to the ac fuse, and the white wire to the high beam fuse. That because I’m using the white wire as a trigger for the light bar to turn on with the light bar and the pink trigger wire for the reverse pods on the back.
 

Taco_primo

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Damn Good write up. I didn’t think of trimming the mount when I installed mine because of the harness on the fender. Good idea. But I wired mine differently. I hooked the blue ignition wire to the ac fuse, and the white wire to the high beam fuse. That because I’m using the white wire as a trigger for the light bar to turn on with the light bar and the pink trigger wire for the reverse pods on the back.
Yeah I had already had that under dash wire tapped for the ARB compressor, so I just went ahead and used it again lol
 

Taco_primo

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Ok so I hate sloppy installs......so I can’t leave well enough alone. Started making my template and just waiting on my sheet of aluminum. Let the cutting and bending commence.....hopefully soon.

E7393E40-744C-455A-952B-4A8B1C9F6C0E.jpeg
 

Taco_primo

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That sdhq mount is over 100$ for that small piece of plastic. I have a hard time swallowing that price point.
Yeah, it’s not cheap, there are other ways to mount it as well. I just went for the package deal.
 

ShikyoX

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Ok, well here it goes. It’s not complete......I am going to do some under hood clean up soon, this is it for now though.

First off, due to me having crawl control, the SDHQ Mount needed a bit of modification. The highlighted area needed to be removed
View attachment 687
View attachment 688
I used a file to do some metal cleanup after.

Here you can see the right clearance after trimming.
View attachment 689

Here it is mounted.
View attachment 690

Next I prepped the dash

start by removing the kick panel on the left by removing this plastic nut with your fingers, then pop off the first door sill and the kick panel.View attachment 696

That will expose the 3 screws you will need to remove 10mm socket works great.
View attachment 697View attachment 698
gently pop this lower panel out after removing the 3 screws.



Now this part will only apply if you are doing the SDHQ dash mount.

View attachment 699

Screw in the 4 threaded studs supplied with the Switch-Pros mounting hardware and then put on the small plastic plate.
View attachment 700

Next you will install the larger clear backing plate and install the 4 provided screws
View attachment 701

Ok so next I routed the blue ignition wire into the cab through the firewall in the harness grommet.

You’ll have to cut a slit in the grommet.
View attachment 702This is on the drivers side next to the brake master.

I just got a metal coat hangar and straightened it out. From inside the cab, push the hangar through the hole you created and tape the wire to the end, after it’s nice and taped on, you will pull the hangar back into the cab and the wire should follow. You will have to do this with the switch harness as well, that’s how controller will hook up. I also took some of the braided look and heat shrink and covered the wire for protection.

View attachment 703

Now for an ignition source, I just got out my multimeter and started poking on plugs of the same gauge wire until I found one.


Under the kick panel on the left you will see this plug and there is a lime green wire, I just cut back some of the shielding and tapped into this wire.
View attachment 704

Next I had to hook up the white wire to a light source, I chose to tap into my head lights, this way when my headlights are on the panel will dim.

It’s the red wire on your low beam plug.
View attachment 705


Now i hooked everything up and made sure I got power to the panel and it was on and functional.

View attachment 706

Now that you have everything installed and functional, it’s time to wire your accessories. I am running a rough country 30” light bar, Baja designs squadron pro fogs for ditch lights and a ARB dual compressor. View attachment 716

Now it’s actually really easy. For my light bar, I cut out the relay harness and got it down to just the 2 wires. Switch 1 is a brown wire, you connect the brown to the power wire from the light bar(i soldered it) you can use butt connectors if you want. You will have to crimp on a eyelet connector to the ground wire and then just ground to a body ground.

Feel free to ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer.



Oh and this is the mess that I still have to clean up
View attachment 717

Just waiting on a busbar and distribution block to clean it all up.
This is a silly question it with this setup you no longer need relays and fuses?
 
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