EDIT!!!!!
Read a few posts down.
Read a few posts down.
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What is a CMC and do I really need new UCA's?
T3G Approved! Switch pro install
- Thread starter Taco_primo
- Start date
- Staff
- #2
Sweet! Good to have installs coming in. I’ll link it in the navigation bar when it’s done.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #3
Sounds good.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #4
Ok, I have possession of the switch pro. Hope to get it installed this weekend if I don’t have to work.
- Staff
- #5
Sweet! I love reading installs, can’t wait.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #6
Ok, well here it goes. It’s not complete......I am going to do some under hood clean up soon, this is it for now though.
First off, due to me having crawl control, the SDHQ Mount needed a bit of modification. The highlighted area needed to be removed
I used a file to do some metal cleanup after.
Here you can see the right clearance after trimming.
Here it is mounted.
Next I prepped the dash
start by removing the kick panel on the left by removing this plastic nut with your fingers, then pop off the first door sill and the kick panel.
That will expose the 3 screws you will need to remove 10mm socket works great.
gently pop this lower panel out after removing the 3 screws.
Now this part will only apply if you are doing the SDHQ dash mount.
Screw in the 4 threaded studs supplied with the Switch-Pros mounting hardware and then put on the small plastic plate.
Next you will install the larger clear backing plate and install the 4 provided screws
Ok so next I routed the blue ignition wire into the cab through the firewall in the harness grommet.
You’ll have to cut a slit in the grommet.
This is on the drivers side next to the brake master.
I just got a metal coat hangar and straightened it out. From inside the cab, push the hangar through the hole you created and tape the wire to the end, after it’s nice and taped on, you will pull the hangar back into the cab and the wire should follow. You will have to do this with the switch harness as well, that’s how controller will hook up. I also took some of the braided look and heat shrink and covered the wire for protection.
Now for an ignition source, I just got out my multimeter and started poking on plugs of the same gauge wire until I found one.
Under the kick panel on the left you will see this plug and there is a lime green wire, I just cut back some of the shielding and tapped into this wire.
Next I had to hook up the white wire to a light source, I chose to tap into my head lights, this way when my headlights are on the panel will dim.
It’s the red wire on your low beam plug.
Now i hooked everything up and made sure I got power to the panel and it was on and functional.
Now that you have everything installed and functional, it’s time to wire your accessories. I am running a rough country 30” light bar, Baja designs squadron pro fogs for ditch lights and a ARB dual compressor.
Now it’s actually really easy. For my light bar, I cut out the relay harness and got it down to just the 2 wires. Switch 1 is a brown wire, you connect the brown to the power wire from the light bar(i soldered it) you can use butt connectors if you want. You will have to crimp on a eyelet connector to the ground wire and then just ground to a body ground.
Feel free to ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer.
Oh and this is the mess that I still have to clean up
Just waiting on a busbar and distribution block to clean it all up.
First off, due to me having crawl control, the SDHQ Mount needed a bit of modification. The highlighted area needed to be removed
I used a file to do some metal cleanup after.
Here you can see the right clearance after trimming.
Here it is mounted.
Next I prepped the dash
start by removing the kick panel on the left by removing this plastic nut with your fingers, then pop off the first door sill and the kick panel.
That will expose the 3 screws you will need to remove 10mm socket works great.
gently pop this lower panel out after removing the 3 screws.
Now this part will only apply if you are doing the SDHQ dash mount.
Screw in the 4 threaded studs supplied with the Switch-Pros mounting hardware and then put on the small plastic plate.
Next you will install the larger clear backing plate and install the 4 provided screws
Ok so next I routed the blue ignition wire into the cab through the firewall in the harness grommet.
You’ll have to cut a slit in the grommet.
I just got a metal coat hangar and straightened it out. From inside the cab, push the hangar through the hole you created and tape the wire to the end, after it’s nice and taped on, you will pull the hangar back into the cab and the wire should follow. You will have to do this with the switch harness as well, that’s how controller will hook up. I also took some of the braided look and heat shrink and covered the wire for protection.
Now for an ignition source, I just got out my multimeter and started poking on plugs of the same gauge wire until I found one.
Under the kick panel on the left you will see this plug and there is a lime green wire, I just cut back some of the shielding and tapped into this wire.
Next I had to hook up the white wire to a light source, I chose to tap into my head lights, this way when my headlights are on the panel will dim.
It’s the red wire on your low beam plug.
Now i hooked everything up and made sure I got power to the panel and it was on and functional.
Now that you have everything installed and functional, it’s time to wire your accessories. I am running a rough country 30” light bar, Baja designs squadron pro fogs for ditch lights and a ARB dual compressor.
Now it’s actually really easy. For my light bar, I cut out the relay harness and got it down to just the 2 wires. Switch 1 is a brown wire, you connect the brown to the power wire from the light bar(i soldered it) you can use butt connectors if you want. You will have to crimp on a eyelet connector to the ground wire and then just ground to a body ground.
Feel free to ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer.
Oh and this is the mess that I still have to clean up
Just waiting on a busbar and distribution block to clean it all up.
Last edited:
- Staff
- #7
Great write-up!! Gonna add it to the tutorial bar at the top of the site.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #8
Thank you. Ok sounds good.
- Messages
- 6
- First Name
- Jason
- T3G #
- 105
Damn Good write up. I didn’t think of trimming the mount when I installed mine because of the harness on the fender. Good idea. But I wired mine differently. I hooked the blue ignition wire to the ac fuse, and the white wire to the high beam fuse. That because I’m using the white wire as a trigger for the light bar to turn on with the light bar and the pink trigger wire for the reverse pods on the back.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #10
Yeah I had already had that under dash wire tapped for the ARB compressor, so I just went ahead and used it again lol
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #11
Ok so I hate sloppy installs......so I can’t leave well enough alone. Started making my template and just waiting on my sheet of aluminum. Let the cutting and bending commence.....hopefully soon.
Thank you! I'll be using this in the near future 
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #13
Step 2 complete. Now to do some filing and sanding and it will be almost ready. Gotta find some fasteners and then the install will commence. Made out of 5052 H32 aluminum 1/8” thick.
- Messages
- 100
- First Name
- Tom
- T3G #
- 234
nice work
That sdhq mount is over 100$ for that small piece of plastic. I have a hard time swallowing that price point.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #17
Yeah, it’s not cheap, there are other ways to mount it as well. I just went for the package deal.
- Messages
- 48
- First Name
- Bryan
- T3G #
- 505
Great work deffinatly going on my to do list!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #19
The install is finally complete
From this
To this
The bracket isn’t perfect, but for bending in a vise and only having a jig saw and files.....not bad I think.
From this
To this
The bracket isn’t perfect, but for bending in a vise and only having a jig saw and files.....not bad I think.
This is a silly question it with this setup you no longer need relays and fuses?