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SLIDERS

Jimbob540

2️⃣ Bronze
Joined
Sep 11, 2018
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Location
Tucson
2018 TRD OR DCSB Auto
Quicksand
Hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows if any companies out there have sliders in stock regularly. I would preferably like to get RCI sliders because they seem to have the most bang for your $$$.
 

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Hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows if any companies out there have sliders in stock regularly. I would preferably like to get RCI sliders because they seem to have the most bang for your $$$. I'm returning from Korea soon and get to see my rig after 365 lonely days. I'm excited to see my new bumpers in person.


-Jimmy
I think most have them in stock or have very short lead times compared to bumpers.

Really, they are all made well regardless of company, so I would just get the ones you like the aesthetic of the most.
 
We do not have any sliders in stock for the Tacomas. I also know of no company that has them in stock currently. Ours are typically some of the lowest lead times even during our big sales. Currently we are 6 weeks out.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
 
We do not have any sliders in stock for the Tacomas. I also know of no company that has them in stock currently. Ours are typically some of the lowest lead times even during our big sales. Currently we are 6 weeks out.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
Damn. Lead times weren’t that bad for sliders when I was looking around for another member around 6 months ago.
 
I'm almost certain @CaliRaisedLED will have some in stock. They were really pumping these out at the end of last year to have them ready for the xmas rush. There may be a little bit of a lead time if you wanted it powder coated or or line-x'd.
 
Damn. Lead times weren’t that bad for sliders when I was looking around for another member around 6 months ago.
Yeah I would put $$$ that we have the lowest lead times even 6 months ago where we were at 0-4 weeks. Everyone else was 6-8+. I keep a very close eye on these things.
 
I'm almost certain @CaliRaisedLED will have some in stock. They were really pumping these out at the end of last year to have them ready for the xmas rush. There may be a little bit of a lead time if you wanted it powder coated or or line-x'd.
That is correct we have a couple in stock and our lead time right now if they are not are 2-3 weeks.
 
I have 4xinnovation sliders. I went with HREW because they were in stock and should be fine for what I am doing. I got the sliders for under $300 shipped and had a friend from a local group (Bluegrass Toyotas) paint and weld them up for me. All said in done I have a great set of sliders for around $500. Go check them out.
 
Just know what you're buying. A lot of folks see sliders at a price they like and buy. If it bolts to the body, don't use for more than a step. Some cheaper options are weld on, make sure that's a route you are willing to look at. Also know material, not only type (hrew vs Dom) but also size and thickness.
Lots of options. Lots of similarities. Lots of differences. Check builds and pics and you'll find what's right for you.
 
Just know what you're buying. A lot of folks see sliders at a price they like and buy. If it bolts to the body, don't use for more than a step. Some cheaper options are weld on, make sure that's a route you are willing to look at. Also know material, not only type (hrew vs Dom) but also size and thickness.
Lots of options. Lots of similarities. Lots of differences. Check builds and pics and you'll find what's right for you.
Well said!!!! Everyone needs to weigh the pros and cons. Don't just fall for some hype either.

To add to the weld on typically there are just 4 feet with smallish pads you weld to the frame. This point loads the frame much more so than bolt-on sliders with their large plates and many more attachment points via the bolts. I have seen more bent and dented frames around those welded plates than those that used bolt on sliders of any brands. The toyota frames are not particularly the strongest in the world.

The DOM vs HREW hype/debate gets extremely old.
 
Everything has it's place - weld/bolt on and hrew/Dom. For 95% of buyers, 95% of the options are plenty enough.
Of the other 5%, some won't ever be happy, some don't realize how hard they are on parts, and the last bit are my kinda crowd and like testing the limits of things.
I think if folks analyze what they expect and want, research what different things are for, they can usually make a pretty good decision for themselves. Lots of good options on the market, lots of bad. Pick your poison.
 
Everything has it's place - weld/bolt on and hrew/Dom. For 95% of buyers, 95% of the options are plenty enough.
Of the other 5%, some won't ever be happy, some don't realize how hard they are on parts, and the last bit are my kinda crowd and like testing the limits of things.
I think if folks analyze what they expect and want, research what different things are for, they can usually make a pretty good decision for themselves. Lots of good options on the market, lots of bad. Pick your poison.
You and me are cut from the same cloth except I push and am hard on parts, I just realize it and spend an equal amount of time repairing, maintaining, and preventative stuff to keep being able to wheel.

If only people would do the latter of this statement and not just fall into the group think or listen to keyboard jockies spouting off things they don't actually know what they are talking about. If anyone reading this takes anything from this. Here are 2 Vendors saying ya'll do some research for yourselves too. We will be glad to answer your questions as well.

Personally I've had conversations with potential customers our products didn't exactly fit what they were looking for and they went with a competitor that unfortunately didn't want to take the time to talk with them and help them understand some things. It's all about you the end user being happy and content with your purchase and getting something that will preform in the manner you are looking for it to do so.
 
It was asked that I shed a little light on some of the "tech" side of material, as everyone always hears DOM vs HREW but nothing more. I will try to be as layman as possible, so some of the details may be lacking or sound odd, but just trying to make it make sense for the masses vs the technical few.

The biggest thing to take away from this whole shabang is this:
DOM vs HREW is an argument over process, the real concern is material.

What does that mean?
Dom is not a "seamless material" - it is simply Drawn Over a Mandrel to eradicate imperfections and create a consistent material throughout, cold working the material. The process is known to provide more exact dimensions relative to the inside and outside diameters, a smoother finish, and better alignment of the crystal lattice structure.
aka
GENERALLY speaking, dom tends to be more consistent than HREW, ESPECIALLY when not dealing with a reputable supplier.
The steel is usually offered in two steel "ratings" 1020 & 1026. While the composition of the two is almost identical, there are slight differences, that in the application of truck armor, are negligible. Again, GENERALLY speaking, 1026 is reserved for uses in OD above 2" and .155 wall.

HREW is the other process, basically lacking the cold working process. IN THE SAME MATERIAL RATING and thickness, HREW will show a lower strength rating, as it applies to maximum sustained load and permanent deflection. This is usually tested in the 60-68% increase in strength for the dom over like hrew.

Where is the confusion?
A lot of companies will argue their HREW is better than others DOM. Looking into these tests, youll usually find that the OD is different, and the manufacturer of the materials is not the same. Example; quality made US based HREW that is put up against Chinese or Mexican DOM, will usually win. However, the two options, spec'd the same, from the same plant, will show the DOM as a leader.

Exceptions: There will always be bad runs/batches. Ive bent 4130 that popped open mid bend. Called supplier and they recalled all of that run of material. Ive run HREW that mic'd at .122 to .085 on the same stick. Fortunately that was a misplaced stick of material that ended up banded for my order on accident, and the rest of the run was fine.

The point: it isnt enough to say DOM vs HREW. There is too much else at stake. Knowing OD and wall thickness is a start, but see if your vendor uses a consistent supplier, or shops around for bargain bin deals on bulk. Is it a traceable, US made and marked material? That will tell you a lot more than "we sell DOM only" or "hrew is the way to go, dom is a joke". If thats too much work to look into, then you arent likely pushing things hard enough to care about quality of materials used, or you get to deal with repercussions of your ignorance. Its ok to ask questions. A vendor should be happy to answer stuff about their product and why they do what they do and choose what they choose. The justification isnt always sound, but it should answer whether you think a product is right for you.

Hope that helps and is as clear as mud. Thanks for joining my ted talk. ??
 
It was asked that I shed a little light on some of the "tech" side of material, as everyone always hears DOM vs HREW but nothing more. I will try to be as layman as possible, so some of the details may be lacking or sound odd, but just trying to make it make sense for the masses vs the technical few.

The biggest thing to take away from this whole shabang is this:
DOM vs HREW is an argument over process, the real concern is material.

What does that mean?
Dom is not a "seamless material" - it is simply Drawn Over a Mandrel to eradicate imperfections and create a consistent material throughout, cold working the material. The process is known to provide more exact dimensions relative to the inside and outside diameters, a smoother finish, and better alignment of the crystal lattice structure.
aka
GENERALLY speaking, dom tends to be more consistent than HREW, ESPECIALLY when not dealing with a reputable supplier.
The steel is usually offered in two steel "ratings" 1020 & 1026. While the composition of the two is almost identical, there are slight differences, that in the application of truck armor, are negligible. Again, GENERALLY speaking, 1026 is reserved for uses in OD above 2" and .155 wall.

HREW is the other process, basically lacking the cold working process. IN THE SAME MATERIAL RATING and thickness, HREW will show a lower strength rating, as it applies to maximum sustained load and permanent deflection. This is usually tested in the 60-68% increase in strength for the dom over like hrew.

Where is the confusion?
A lot of companies will argue their HREW is better than others DOM. Looking into these tests, youll usually find that the OD is different, and the manufacturer of the materials is not the same. Example; quality made US based HREW that is put up against Chinese or Mexican DOM, will usually win. However, the two options, spec'd the same, from the same plant, will show the DOM as a leader.

Exceptions: There will always be bad runs/batches. Ive bent 4130 that popped open mid bend. Called supplier and they recalled all of that run of material. Ive run HREW that mic'd at .122 to .085 on the same stick. Fortunately that was a misplaced stick of material that ended up banded for my order on accident, and the rest of the run was fine.

The point: it isnt enough to say DOM vs HREW. There is too much else at stake. Knowing OD and wall thickness is a start, but see if your vendor uses a consistent supplier, or shops around for bargain bin deals on bulk. Is it a traceable, US made and marked material? That will tell you a lot more than "we sell DOM only" or "hrew is the way to go, dom is a joke". If thats too much work to look into, then you arent likely pushing things hard enough to care about quality of materials used, or you get to deal with repercussions of your ignorance. Its ok to ask questions. A vendor should be happy to answer stuff about their product and why they do what they do and choose what they choose. The justification isnt always sound, but it should answer whether you think a product is right for you.

Hope that helps and is as clear as mud. Thanks for joining my ted talk. ??
You also get the opposite where there is a fever over DOM because it's stronger but may not be necessary for the application or just overkill and overcharged for the hype.

The Wall thickness and dia. are key. If anyone does some research into solid axle stuff you'll get a big education on the wall thickness and tube dia.

Your explanation was well said I may use some of those simple points when talking to customers or others not in the game.
 
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