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Rear Disc Swap Conversion (SOS Performance)

New Holland Overland

7️⃣ Connoisseur
Rig of the Month
Tacoma3G O.G.
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
567
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Location
Holland, MI
Website
www.newhollandoverland.com
2017 TRD OR DCSB Auto
White
After a lot of issues with the rear drums; 3 wheel cylinders and 4 complete set of drums...all in the span of 98K miles, it was time to swap to disc brakes on the Tacoma. I worked with my local dealer to do all the labor (Crown Toyota in Holland, MI) who have been nothing but fantastic. They did give me a large discount on the labor because of the numerous issues ive had with the braking system on the truck, and theyre an awesome dealer who actually help out their brand enthusiasts!

Benefits over the drum:
  • Releases mud / sand / water IMMEDIATELY (Drum brakes hold in the environment)
  • Easier to maintain and also diagnose
  • Performance Stoptech rotors (Calipers are from a 2010+ FJ)

Price breakdown:
Labor $800
Kit $1300
Wheel Bearings (Optional) $550
GRAND TOTAL: $2650

The kit is from SOS performance:

I opted for slotted rotors w/ the parking brake option

The process was incredibly simple to do, only took 8 hours to do the swap. I did opt in to replace my wheel bearings at 100K miles which added in some extra cost, but we saved the old bearings as backups for when on the trail! If you choose not to do bearings then you can save a lot of time and cutoff the back of your brake shield to mitigate the removal of the bearings. The kit does have a very very small drum inside of the rotor to act as the parking brake for the truck, which this keeps your oem parking brake. Overall the process was simple, hopefully a very large improvement over the OE drum brakes!


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One hiccup we did have when installing the new wheel bearings was my limit strap mounts were mounted about .25" too close for the bolt to slide cleanly through...but with a BFH and some love we bent the brackets and slid in the bolt.

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Let me know if you guys have any questions!
 
I must've incorrectly thought the electronic brake booster in the off-road made this impossible. how's it feel?
 
Benefits over the drum:
  • Releases mud / sand / water IMMEDIATELY (Drum brakes hold in the environment)

I always thought the reason for the rear drum was to keep that stuff out. Are the drums just not sealed or is it stuff that gets caked on the outside?

Do we have a Electronic Booster Master Cylinder?
 
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I always thought the reason for the rear drum was to keep that stuff out. Are the drums just not sealed or is it stuff that gets caked on the outside?

Do we have a Electronic Booster Master Cylinder?
Anything with Crawl Control and MTS should since it needs to control individual brakes, right? So OR and Pro models, I imagine
 
I always thought the reason for the rear drum was to keep that stuff out. Are the drums just not sealed or is it stuff that gets caked on the outside?

Do we have a Electronic Booster Master Cylinder?
No our drums are not a sealed system, thats been my issue the whole time is I get a lot of mud and sand in there and it just becomes sand paper for the braking system wearing it out prematurly.

Yes our trucks have an E booster because of the crawl control etc., no need to swap out the master cylinder if you have the E booster. If you have a sport and a regular break booster then you'll need to upgrade your master cylinder.
 
After a lot of issues with the rear drums; 3 wheel cylinders and 4 complete set of drums...all in the span of 98K miles, it was time to swap to disc brakes on the Tacoma. I worked with my local dealer to do all the labor (Crown Toyota in Holland, MI) who have been nothing but fantastic. They did give me a large discount on the labor because of the numerous issues ive had with the braking system on the truck, and theyre an awesome dealer who actually help out their brand enthusiasts!

Benefits over the drum:
  • Releases mud / sand / water IMMEDIATELY (Drum brakes hold in the environment)
  • Easier to maintain and also diagnose
  • Performance Stoptech rotors (Calipers are from a 2010+ FJ)

Price breakdown:
Labor $800
Kit $1300
Wheel Bearings (Optional) $550
GRAND TOTAL: $2650

The kit is from SOS performance:

I opted for slotted rotors w/ the parking brake option

The process was incredibly simple to do, only took 8 hours to do the swap. I did opt in to replace my wheel bearings at 100K miles which added in some extra cost, but we saved the old bearings as backups for when on the trail! If you choose not to do bearings then you can save a lot of time and cutoff the back of your brake shield to mitigate the removal of the bearings. The kit does have a very very small drum inside of the rotor to act as the parking brake for the truck, which this keeps your oem parking brake. Overall the process was simple, hopefully a very large improvement over the OE drum brakes!


image_67203073.JPG
image_167834881.JPG
image_67227649.JPG
image_67211777.JPG


One hiccup we did have when installing the new wheel bearings was my limit strap mounts were mounted about .25" too close for the bolt to slide cleanly through...but with a BFH and some love we bent the brackets and slid in the bolt.

image_67214081.JPG


image_67191553.JPG
image_67237121.JPG


Let me know if you guys have any questions!
I just found this kit while browsing for other parts and then saw you had a post on them. With this conversion kit, do you have to order new calipers from the company who made the conversion kit or can you go with whatever brand you choose for the front set? Would seem like a little bit of a hassle to order calipers from two different places. Is the parking brake option required? What are the pros/cons of choosing the parking brake option? Also, did you choose the "Frame to Axle S.S. Line Kit" with the conversion (also what the heck is this)?
 
I just found this kit while browsing for other parts and then saw you had a post on them. With this conversion kit, do you have to order new calipers from the company who made the conversion kit or can you go with whatever brand you choose for the front set? Would seem like a little bit of a hassle to order calipers from two different places. Is the parking brake option required? What are the pros/cons of choosing the parking brake option? Also, did you choose the "Frame to Axle S.S. Line Kit" with the conversion (also what the heck is this)?
With this conversion kit, do you have to order new calipers from the company who made the conversion kit or can you go with whatever brand you choose for the front set?
You have to order calipers specific to this kit which uses Toyota FJ calipers/rotors/pads. Front set calipers will not work on the rear

Would seem like a little bit of a hassle to order calipers from two different places. Is the parking brake option required? What are the pros/cons of choosing the parking brake option?
To be honest I would just order the kit all from SOS, keep it simple...The parking brake is not required, but if you want to keep your parking brake then its a simple answer. I opted just to do it so I didnt have to remove any of the emergency brake hardware/lines.

Also, did you choose the "Frame to Axle S.S. Line Kit" with the conversion (also what the heck is this)?
Stainless Steel brake lines (replaces oem frame to axle soft brake lines), I would recommend these for a firmer pedal feel and also getting a longer length if you have extended travel shocks. You should also do them for the front, its an easy upgrade for a firmer pedal feel.
 
With this conversion kit, do you have to order new calipers from the company who made the conversion kit or can you go with whatever brand you choose for the front set?
You have to order calipers specific to this kit which uses Toyota FJ calipers/rotors/pads. Front set calipers will not work on the rear

Would seem like a little bit of a hassle to order calipers from two different places. Is the parking brake option required? What are the pros/cons of choosing the parking brake option?
To be honest I would just order the kit all from SOS, keep it simple...The parking brake is not required, but if you want to keep your parking brake then its a simple answer. I opted just to do it so I didnt have to remove any of the emergency brake hardware/lines.

Also, did you choose the "Frame to Axle S.S. Line Kit" with the conversion (also what the heck is this)?
Stainless Steel brake lines (replaces oem frame to axle soft brake lines), I would recommend these for a firmer pedal feel and also getting a longer length if you have extended travel shocks. You should also do them for the front, its an easy upgrade for a firmer pedal feel.
Sorry for the delayed response but I really appreciate all of the information!
 
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