Parker315
2️⃣ Bronze
Truck: 2017 TRD Sport DCSB AT 3.5L V6 Magnetic Grey Metallic
- Purchased Brand New on 11/08/2017
- 25 miles on the odometer
- Final Assembly Point – San Antonio, Texas
- Date of Manufacture: 08/17
Dealership Add-Ons:
- Double Cab Predator Steps
- LED Convenience Bed Lights
- Bed 100-400w Power Inverter
- Remote Locking Tailgate
- Blackout Emblems
- Black Tailgate Letter Inserts
- TRD Performance Air Intake System
- TRD Performance Exhaust System
- Pedal Commander Throttle Module
- Rough Country Complete 3” Suspension Lift w/ Upgraded N3 Struts
- Drilled/Slotted Rotors & Brake Pad combo from Tacomabeast.com
- Rebound Icon Alloy Wheels: Size-17 x 8.5 Bolt Pattern-6 x 5.5" Offset-0mm Hub Bore-106.1mm
- Nitto Ridge Grappler's: 285/70/17
- Softopper Bed Cover
- Truck Bed Header Rail
- Toyota Tacoma Rubber Bet Mat
- TRD Pro Grill Upgrade
- Switchback Amber/White Raptor Lights: Oznium LED Bolt
- Side Marker Decal – Thanks to @rrentrop
- Rear Bumper Flush Mount LED Pods: Original Post Here
- SpyderAuto LED Taillights - New Set
- --> Winjet Smoked LED Taillights – Removed due to constant QC issues
- MesoJDM v3 Ultimate LED Turn Signals: Found HERE for purchase
- JupiterOnEarth Bedside Decal
- CaliRaised Premium Roof Rack
- ---42-Inch Slim LED Light bar
- ---x4 20w Scene light pods
Interior Upgrades:
- MesoJDM Ultimate Map and Dome Lights – Found HERE for purchase
- Tweeter Speaker Upgrade: Info on this upgrade can be found HERE
- Switch Pro 9100 mounted to the left of the steering wheel using the existing OEM panel
- White TuffSkinz Cup Holder Inserts
- White glove box Tacoma letter inlays by @mtnrider on eBay
- WeatherTech Floor Mats
- TrdPro Shifter Knob
- N2 DESIGNS 16-20 TACOMA PLUG & PLAY REMOTE START KIT
Electrical Upgrades:
- Odyssey Group 34r Deep Cycle battery
- ---Battery Tie Down Bracket (Matte Red)
- ---Schumacher BAF-J10 Hold-Down J-Bolt
- SwitchPro 9100
- Extended Power Cable for the Switch-Pro from PowerTrays
- Stubby Cable For Non-ATRAC Switch-Pro PowerTray
- PowerTrays Switch-Pro PowerTray (non-ATRAC)
- MRBF terminal fuse holder w/ fuse (125A for the SP9100)
- Blue Sea Systems 8 Circuit 30A Terminal Block
- Blue Sea Systems Common BusBars (100A-250A)
- Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks
Lighting Upgrades:
Each set change was just an upgrade from the previous. No other reason for changing. All the lights worked well.
Engine Bay LED Lighting
- KC Cyclone's LED lights - I made my own wiring harness for this.
- My 1st Set: Auxbeam H11 LED F-16 Series CREE Chips (found on Amazon)
- My 2nd Set: Hikari Ultra LED Kit - H11 Philips Lumileds (excellent lights, just upgraded to a little better. Found on Amazon)
- My Current: Morimoto HID Elite 55w 6500K
- 1st Set: HIKARI LED H11, CREE Chips (excellent light, just upgraded to a little better. Found on Amazon)
- Current: deAutoLED 45w H9 LED (AMAZING LIGHTS) New product, link not available yet.
- 1st Set: Auxbeam F-S2 Series H11 LED Bridgelux COB Chips (found on Amazon)
- 2nd Set: Auxbeam H11 LED F-16 Series CREE Chips (found on Amazon)
- 3rd Set: OffRoadTown SAE Projector Cubes – Installed Using CaliRaised brackets (found on Amazon)
- 4th Set: Morimoto Oval XB LED SAE Projector
- Current: CaliRaised 3X2 18W AMBER LED POD
- 1st Set: JDM ASTAR 7440 (Required Resistors) (Found on Amazon)
- 2nd Set: deAutoLED 7440 (Amazing and bright, but dont last) No Resistors
- Current: ENDPAGE 7440 with Built-in Load Resistor (by far the best and brightest) No Resistors
Reverse Lights
- 1st Set: Brightstar LED 921 (found on Amazon)
- 2nd Set: deAutoLED LED 921
- Current setup: SpyderAuto LED taillights with built-in reverse lights
- ---and Reverse Pods in the bumper
- 1st Set: SuperBright LED 194/921 Wedge (Flickering problems)
- Current Set: deAutoLED 194/921 wedge (excellent quality and great light output)
- MesoJDM Ultimate Map and Dome Lights
- deAutoLED Vanity LED Lights
LED Light Bar
- Auxbeam 32" LED 180W CREE Chips Spot Flood Combo Lamp 5D Lens
- ---Installed with CaliRaised Brackets Needed some minor customization when used with this light bar. See Below for more info.
If using a different brand of light bar with CaliRaised brackets, I found that you needed to do some simple engineering to get the light to fit the CaliRaised brackets. At least with the AuxBeam I used.
I needed two Reducing Automotive studs
Size: M6 > M8
M8 being the side that fits the light and M6 that fits through the brackets. The brackets don't have just a single hole drilled it’s a 4" long slot.
I got my studs at Ace Hardware. They come in two lengths 23mm and 31mm. I used the 23mm length.
You will also need an M6 and M8 nut. I used a regular stainless nut, so it wouldn’t rust, but I might recommend a lock nut just to be safe. So far though I have had no issues.
You may even want to apply some heavy-duty lock tight to the end of the stud that goes into the light. I used pliers to screw the stud into the light firmly. The rest of the install process can be seen HERE
Thanks for checking it out. If you have questions, feel free to ask!
Check back later for more updates and changes.
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