Gear Ratio

[Odonata Overland]

I have a 2023 Off Road.

I pull an overland trailer A LOT. I’ve went to 275/70/R 17 (32”) tires.

Manual transmission. On the freeway 6th gear is pretty much unusable when pulling the trailer.

I want to go to 33” tires. Don’t plan to ever go bigger than 33”.

Have a quote from East Coast Gear Supply to regear, and install a locking fount differential.

4.88 or 5.29 is the question?

East Coast Gear says with 33” tires, at 70mph 4.88 will give 2500rpm and 5.29 will give 2700rpm.

Thoughts.

 

[Slick1]

I have a 2023 Off Road.

I pull an overland trailer A LOT. I’ve went to 275/70/R 17 (32”) tires.

Manual transmission. On the freeway 6th gear is pretty much unusable when pulling the trailer.

I want to go to 33” tires. Don’t plan to ever go bigger than 33”.

Have a quote from East Coast Gear Supply to regear, and install a locking fount differential.

4.88 or 5.29 is the question?

East Coast Gear says with 33” tires, at 70mph 4.88 will give 2500rpm and 5.29 will give 2700rpm.

Thoughts.

If you don't already have a tune, maybe try that first, it will change your peak torque/HP rpm, (likely lower it to a more useable rpm), then make a decision on gear ratio.

 

[Philthy_adventures]

If you're towing a lot having a proper gear ratio is paramount, with a tune would be even better. Keep in mind that the manual trans Tacos are geared with 4.30 (factory) if memory serves me right. I guess it all depends on how heavy your trailer is, that would determine the gear ratio you should go with.
Front locker...I've never needed one as the rear locker has got me through 100% of Colorado's trails and 90% of Moab's trails! However, if you plan on doing a fair amount of rock crawling then perhaps consider spending the frogs to get it done.

 

[Odonata Overland]

If you don't already have a tune, maybe try that first, it will change your peak torque/HP rpm, (likely lower it to a more useable rpm), then make a decision on gear ratio.

I have been looking at the OTT tune, and will likely start there for cost. It does look there are benefits to manual transmission, but much of it is for automatics?

 

[Odonata Overland]

If you're towing a lot having a proper gear ratio is paramount, with a tune would be even better. Keep in mind that the manual trans Tacos are geared with 4.30 (factory) if memory serves me right. I guess it all depends on how heavy your trailer is, that would determine the gear ratio you should go with.
Front locker...I've never needed one as the rear locker has got me through 100% of Colorado's trails and 90% of Moab's trails! However, if you plan on doing a fair amount of rock crawling then perhaps consider spending the frogs to get it done.

The dry weight of the trailer I pull is 2600 LBS with a max GVWR of 4200 LBS. I have not yet weighted it, as I keep finding stuff to add to it.

The big question is will 4.88 work, or should I go lower to 5.29?

I never plan to go larger the 33” tire.

As for the front locker, I agree, it’s likely overkill. I am a TRD Off-Road, and have only twice had to engage the rear locker to get me out of something just 4 or 4 Low wouldn’t. The idea being, if I’m paying someone to re-gear, why not add the front locker at that time. The labor cost is NIL to do it, it’s just the cost of the locker itself.

 

[Slick1]

If you have a 4:30 now as Philthy Adventures said, a 4:88 would make a negligible difference vs cost, and a 5:29 with 33's would be too low IMO unless you were constantly pulling 8-10% or higher grades, but again, the weight of your load matters. If you feel like you need to be in 6th gear on the highway pulling a load, then the 5:29s might be the way to go, though your fuel milage will go to shit. Also, check in to the MCB tune, it seems to be a smoother, more refined tune than the OTT IMO.

 

[Odonata Overland]

All good thoughts and advice thus far.

I’m not so concerned about being in 6th on the freeway. 5th would be fine.

In May I did the MABDR. Traveling to and from on the freeway at 70MPH I spend a lot of time back and forth between 5/6, and down to 4th (or 3rd) for hills. In August I plan to do the WYBDR. I don’t mind rowing gears and I guess it’s expected.

My big complaint is on the starts, or steep hills at slow speed. There are quite a few spots on the MABDR where you pull up to a stop sign on a steep incline, and seems like the clutch gets smoked just to get going again. Or, where there are steep, extended climbs at low speed. Climbing up to the Bell Mountain overlook, paved road, steep as hell! Had to drop into 4 low just to get the rpm right as 1st gear in high transfer case wasn’t low enough.

I hadn’t thought of a tune until now, but it does seem like that could help with the low rpm range. In my reading I’ve also came across “Clutch Accumulator Delete or Bypass” kits. Anyone with a manual have experience with this?

I have dropped this question to the forum of Xpedition Trailer Owners, the Toyota drivers there all swear by regear, but they seem to all be automatics and 4 runners.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Also, fuel economy? Haha.

 

[Slick1]

Having to go 4lo in first gear on pavement is definitely no good, I'm not familiar with the clutch accumulator so have no advice there, but the tune will wake up throttle response and depending on how it's programmed, it can adjust your fuel and timing to lower the power band so the engine can pull through with better throttle response at a lower rpm.