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Maintenance Front body mount replacement.

Mr. Nobody

Mr. Nobody

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Update: I now advise against doing this mod. See further in the thread on page 2 for full description.

😮‍💨



Today I was finally able to replace the front body mounts on my Tacoma. It is any incredibly simple job, but something every Tacoma owner should have in mind to replace. The parts are cheap as well. All you need is the Energy Suspension busing set part number 9.4101G, a jack, some hand tools/wrenches, and a wood block to help lift the body.

Loosen the vertical bolt that secure the factory bushings. Use the wooden block on the jack to help lift the body off the bushing then replace and tighten down. Super easy.

Here's some before and after pictures.

The bushing before is seen below. Just being the bumper, in front of the suspension and below the radiator.
PXL_20201010_231954151.jpg


Removed they look pretty chewed up.
PXL_20201010_231923527.jpg

PXL_20201010_232356362.jpg


These are the new bushings before install.
PXL_20201010_231917513.jpg


Sadly I forgot to take an after photo. I will post one later. I will say that the front end sits a bit higher overall. My front cutline on the factory bumper was almost touching my bumper. It's now well clear of it by maybe 1/2" an inch. Definitely worth the time and cost to upgrade.
 
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We were doing some other stuff at the same time so I don't have an exact time, but it's easily way less than an hour job. Closer to half an hour.
 
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bonifacio said:
Is it a stiffer ride? Any benefits to ride quality or is this mainly for preventative wear later on?
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Its a maintenance item, depending on how much you use your vehicle off-road vs miles and such the OEM bushings will wear out quick. Didnt make for a stiffer ride (wont notice much anyway since its on the core support and not your body mounts near your feet).
 
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I have been trying everything to figure out what’s clunking in my front end. Gonna have to try this as well.
 
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I will add an updated observation to this thread. In my experience I (and a few others) have come to the conclusion that serious consideration should be given BEFORE implementation.

Why? Failure of the sheet metal on the outside edges of the core support on several vehicles has been noticed. Some of these vehicles have been confirmed never to have been jumped, and none were in front end collisions. The sheet metal failures noticed create a significant structural challenge that must be remedied, albeit at a significant cost to the owners wallet.

Each of the vehicles that had developed these sheet metal tears had multiple similarities that we believe are contributing factors.

1. Energy suspension bushing replacement
2. AGM battery replacement (heavier weight)

Our belief is that the heavier battery with the stiffer bushings puts significantly more pressure on the sheet metal and creates a failure at the now weakest point of the front end substructure. That energy has to go somewhere, and when replacing the factory bushings with the Energy Suspension bushings that energy travels to the first weak link in the system, which is the nearby sheet metal surrounding the bushings.

My recommendation is that people stop doing this mod and continue replacing the bushings with the factory recommended OEM bushing until a more appropriate alternative exists.

Before anyone begins to point fingers at Energy Suspension, please remember that this bushing has never actually been recommended by Energy Suspension for replacement in this location on the Toyota Tacoma. This modification began its life on the internet from an individual Tacoma fan somewhere down the line who realized that it fit in the place of the factory bushing. The unintended consequences of the bushing are now apparent and we should learn from our mistakes before we continue suggesting a potentially harmful modification.

I hope this information is helpful to someone.
 

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Whoa, that's not good. Thanks for the tip! I had half a mind to do this to my truck in the next few thousand miles. Do you happen to know of any bushings that should last longer than OEM but not stress the mounts like these?

Regarding OEM replacement bushings, I've seen speculation that many trucks were not torqued to spec at the factory and that's what leads to issues like broken bolts clunking. I'm not sure how much truth there is to this, though.
 
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Meclizine said:
Whoa, that's not good. Thanks for the tip! I had half a mind to do this to my truck in the next few thousand miles. Do you happen to know of any bushings that should last longer than OEM but not stress the mounts like these?

Regarding OEM replacement bushings, I've seen speculation that many trucks were not torqued to spec at the factory and that's what leads to issues like broken bolts clunking. I'm not sure how much truth there is to this, though.
Click to expand...

Currently I am unaware of any suitable alternative to the OEM bushing. Personally I believe that replacing the worn bushing with a new OEM bushing torqued to spec is the best option currently available.
 
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With just a standard non dual battery kit 34R agm you’d be good then at the 45-50ibs that they come in though right?
 
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Hunter399 said:
With just a standard non dual battery kit 34R agm you’d be good then at the 45-50ibs that they come in though right?
Click to expand...

I can't even remotely begin to be certain.

I would highly advise anyone with this mod to immediately and regularly inspect your truck.
 
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Yeah I wish there was a softer or better upgrade. I have a front clunk, could be this but unsure. It’s kicking my ass lol
 
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Mr. Nobody said:
I will add an updated observation to this thread. In my experience I (and a few others) have come to the conclusion that serious consideration should be given BEFORE implementation.

Why? Failure of the sheet metal on the outside edges of the core support on several vehicles has been noticed. Some of these vehicles have been confirmed never to have been jumped, and none were in front end collisions. The sheet metal failures noticed create a significant structural challenge that must be remedied, albeit at a significant cost to the owners wallet.

Each of the vehicles that had developed these sheet metal tears had multiple similarities that we believe are contributing factors.

1. Energy suspension bushing replacement
2. AGM battery replacement (heavier weight)

Our belief is that the heavier battery with the stiffer bushings puts significantly more pressure on the sheet metal and creates a failure at the now weakest point of the front end substructure. That energy has to go somewhere, and when replacing the factory bushings with the Energy Suspension bushings that energy travels to the first weak link in the system, which is the nearby sheet metal surrounding the bushings.

My recommendation is that people stop doing this mod and continue replacing the bushings with the factory recommended OEM bushing until a more appropriate alternative exists.

Before anyone begins to point fingers at Energy Suspension, please remember that this bushing has never actually been recommended by Energy Suspension for replacement in this location on the Toyota Tacoma. This modification began its life on the internet from an individual Tacoma fan somewhere down the line who realized that it fit in the place of the factory bushing. The unintended consequences of the bushing are now apparent and we should learn from our mistakes before we continue suggesting a potentially harmful modification.

I hope this information is helpful to someone.
Click to expand...
This should be continued discussion because I dont believe the energy bushings are a direct cause, the battery placement doesnt help but I also dont believe its the cause of your cracked core support.

I have sheared my core support in that same spot **BEFORE**I did the bushings and also a second battery, the cause that I found on my truck is poor bump travel measurements/setup; allowing the tire to make contact with the inner fender sheet metal which pushes and stresses the core support and eventually cracks and fails. Even if the tire is making small contact it will put stress on the core support. *With the OEM suspension geometry and using stock or similar bumpstops with larger tires, you are almost guaranteed to make contact with your inner fender sheet metal at full bump (the main reason why i went to adjustable compact hydro bumps).

Check to see if you have rub marks on the top most part of sheet metal of your inner fender, im sure with the 37's you do.
 
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New Holland Overland said:
This should be continued discussion because I dont believe the energy bushings are a direct cause, the battery placement doesnt help but I also dont believe its the cause of your cracked core support.

I have sheared my core support in that same spot **BEFORE**I did the bushings and also a second battery, the cause that I found on my truck is poor bump travel measurements/setup; allowing the tire to make contact with the inner fender sheet metal which pushes and stresses the core support and eventually cracks and fails. Even if the tire is making small contact it will put stress on the core support. *With the OEM suspension geometry and using stock or similar bumpstops with larger tires, you are almost guaranteed to make contact with your inner fender sheet metal at full bump (the main reason why i went to adjustable compact hydro bumps).

Check to see if you have rub marks on the top most part of sheet metal of your inner fender, im sure with the 37's you do.
Click to expand...

Excellent additional information.

I definitely agree that your bump travel theory could certainly add to the root causes of the tearing and that all angles should be considered.
 
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This is a Shitty problem to have—when you have upgraded shocks almost inevitable.. I checked everything/replaced everything but the body mount and still have the clunk sometimes turning left as I start accelerating or hitting a speed bump.
 
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