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Decisions decisions Genesis Dual battery versus OffGrid4x4 dual battery

I was considering the off grid myself, something about having over 100lbs of battery on the already low drivers side made me not like the genesis that much. The off grid with the battery on the passenger side seemed as though it would even out the load a bit. I have decided to go the single option though, all in looking at less than $600 and you will spend more than that on just battery’s alone. I went with the @Pelfreybilt battery cage for the group 31m odyssey battery. What will you be using this dual battery setup for? Lots of lighting, winch and fridge?
 
Mine
 

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I was considering the off grid myself, something about having over 100lbs of battery on the already low drivers side made me not like the genesis that much. The off grid with the battery on the passenger side seemed as though it would even out the load a bit. I have decided to go the single option though, all in looking at less than $600 and you will spend more than that on just battery’s alone. I went with the @Pelfreybilt battery cage for the group 31m odyssey battery. What will you be using this dual battery setup for? Lots of lighting, winch and fridge?
I’m planning on using it for my winch and fridge. I tested my ARB 63qt fridge on trail with just my Goal Zero yeti 1400 lithium, but I only got 3 days out of it. I tried to use my solar panels to top of the yeti but I was camping under the shade of trees, so my solar capabilities got limited really fast. I was also considering running just a larger battery with the pelfrey cage, but I like the added security of being off the grid a little longer and without any worries of my battery dying and my fridge not operating.
 
I’m planning on using it for my winch and fridge. I tested my ARB 63qt fridge on trail with just my Goal Zero yeti 1400 lithium, but I only got 3 days out of it. I tried to use my solar panels to top of the yeti but I was camping under the shade of trees, so my solar capabilities got limited really fast. I was also considering running just a larger battery with the pelfrey cage, but I like the added security of being off the grid a little longer and without any worries of my battery dying and my fridge not operating.

Ok then I would say you are going in the right direction. I have a yeti 400 lithium and am about to pick up a 100w solar setup soon. I would recommend the off grid personally. All that weight on the one side seems excessive imo.
 
Ok then I would say you are going in the right direction. I have a yeti 400 lithium and am about to pick up a 100w solar setup soon. I would recommend the off grid personally. All that weight on the one side seems excessive imo.
I was trying to stay away from a dual battery setup. I thought by having a Goal Zero Yeti with a couple of panels would give me versatility and options, but that also means I need to have the ideal environment (sun).
 
I was trying to stay away from a dual battery setup. I thought by having a Goal Zero Yeti with a couple of panels would give me versatility and options, but that also means I need to have the ideal environment (sun).
I've got a small trailer coming and was thinking of supporting it with the Yeti 1400 and a solar panel. You're making me reconsider. My other thought was a dual battery option for the truck, but don't know if it can be set up to draw power without being in accessory mode. I could put the battery set up in the trailer, but that would eliminate the portability of the Yeti or the dual batteries in the truck for when we don't have the trailer with us. Any thoughts on the accessory mode and dual batteries to support lighting in a trailer?
 
150 watt panel and 150ah battery will run a fridge stand alone indefinitely. that’s my setup.

i’ve had the fridge running isolated for 8 months being run only off the batteries and charged only by the sun
 
I've got a small trailer coming and was thinking of supporting it with the Yeti 1400 and a solar panel. You're making me reconsider. My other thought was a dual battery option for the truck, but don't know if it can be set up to draw power without being in accessory mode. I could put the battery set up in the trailer, but that would eliminate the portability of the Yeti or the dual batteries in the truck for when we don't have the trailer with us. Any thoughts on the accessory mode and dual batteries to support lighting in a trailer?

I think if you mount the solar panel on to the trailer then you are good to go. I would consider the more portable solar panel from Goal zero if you did that. My only problem is that when I’m wheeling I’m not parked with the solar panel out on the floor. I usually don’t stop until later in the day, which means less daylight and less time to charge he goal zero.
 
I think if you mount the solar panel on to the trailer then you are good to go. I would consider the more portable solar panel from Goal zero if you did that. My only problem is that when I’m wheeling I’m not parked with the solar panel out on the floor. I usually don’t stop until later in the day, which means less daylight and less time to charge he goal zero.
Makes since, and if I go with the Goal Zero I can still move it out of the trailer if needed. Lot to think about.
 
I could definitely run something like that on top of the trailer like @taco_xpd mentioned. I really don't need that much since we aren't running a fridge. Just need lighting and maybe a small electric heater. That's amazing you can run your fridge indefinitely.
batttery has never dropped below 12.1/12.3v either.

electric heater is gonna chew through juice. those things are hogs.
 
batttery has never dropped below 12.1/12.3v either.

electric heater is gonna chew through juice. those things are hogs.
I kinda figured the heater would, but I was thinking use it to take the chill out in the evening and first thing in the morning. So how did you run your battery set up so you could have continuous power? I'm ignorant of that stuff. I had thought of running a set up like yours and using the 110 plug in the bed to run the trailer, but the whole accessory cut out etc is a problem.
 
It's real easy.
I'd start with running US Battery 12VRX XC2. It's a 150AH 12v golf cart battery, with this battery at a 25amp draw youve got 292 minutes of juice. If you wanna go crazy US 185HC XC2 (220AH) with this one you've got 443 minutes at 25 amp. They batteries are cheap $192 for the 220AH and $160 for the $150AH. The 220 would supply you enough juice to probably small stuff on it for a weekend without recharge.

If you ran a 1500watt heater they draw 12.5 amps, make a guess that a small one might draw 5 amps. I'd guess you could run over a weekend and charge when you get back home.

BUT.

Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (Slim Design)
Rover Li 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
You'll need cables to mount.
Heres where the big expense will come in. That heater if a regular home one will need A/C. So you'll need an inverter and not a cheap one to feed it. If you get a DC car type ceramic heater you can wire directly off battery.


SOLAR PANEL - TO - MPPT CONTROLLER - TO - BATTERY.
ACCESSORIES THAT ARE DC CAN RUN STRAIGHT OFF BATTERY OR DISTRO PANEL.
The MPPT Controller will also have a fault protected power output you can run the heater off if DC.

You have to spend $3000 on a Goal Zero to get $280ah in a small portable unit. If you ran that single 220AH battery a 100 watt panel and the controller you'd be in about $550-650 and have the same power, recharged by the sun all day everyday, the downside is it's not portable.
 
It's real easy.
I'd start with running US Battery 12VRX XC2. It's a 150AH 12v golf cart battery, with this battery at a 25amp draw youve got 292 minutes of juice. If you wanna go crazy US 185HC XC2 (220AH) with this one you've got 443 minutes at 25 amp. They batteries are cheap $192 for the 220AH and $160 for the $150AH. The 220 would supply you enough juice to probably small stuff on it for a weekend without recharge.

If you ran a 1500watt heater they draw 12.5 amps, make a guess that a small one might draw 5 amps. I'd guess you could run over a weekend and charge when you get back home.

BUT.

Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (Slim Design)
Rover Li 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
You'll need cables to mount.
Heres where the big expense will come in. That heater if a regular home one will need A/C. So you'll need an inverter and not a cheap one to feed it. If you get a DC car type ceramic heater you can wire directly off battery.


SOLAR PANEL - TO - MPPT CONTROLLER - TO - BATTERY.
ACCESSORIES THAT ARE DC CAN RUN STRAIGHT OFF BATTERY OR DISTRO PANEL.
The MPPT Controller will also have a fault protected power output you can run the heater off if DC.

You have to spend $3000 on a Goal Zero to get $280ah in a small portable unit. If you ran that single 220AH battery a 100 watt panel and the controller you'd be in about $550-650 and have the same power, recharged by the sun all day everyday, the downside is it's not portable.
Dude! You da man! I don't care what your avatar implies. :) That's some great info that I will use. It's a small Medium Duty Hiker trailer 5 x 9. So I'm thinking small DC ceramic heater and a few LED lights. As you said, something to get us through the weekend, but the Renogy panel would be perfect to help keep us going. Thank you ever so much, and I appreciate you sharing the knowledge.
 
Dude! You da man! I don't care what your avatar implies. :) That's some great info that I will use. It's a small Medium Duty Hiker trailer 5 x 9. So I'm thinking small DC ceramic heater and a few LED lights. As you said, something to get us through the weekend, but the Renogy panel would be perfect to help keep us going. Thank you ever so much, and I appreciate you sharing the knowledge.

In that trailer you could stuff 2X 220ah 12V batteries in there that'll cost you $400, wire them in parallel effectively making 440ah og 12v power. That'll be a gang of power. You'll want 150-300 Watt solar panels dumping back to keep them topped off with heavier usage. But your needs 440ah is MASSIVE amount of juice for very little. I'd guess outside the batteries, and a trickle charger at home you wouldnt probably even need solar, but cant hurt.
 
In that trailer you could stuff 2X 220ah 12V batteries in there that'll cost you $400, wire them in parallel effectively making 440ah og 12v power. That'll be a gang of power. You'll want 150-300 Watt solar panels dumping back to keep them topped off with heavier usage. But your needs 440ah is MASSIVE amount of juice for very little. I'd guess outside the batteries, and a trickle charger at home you wouldnt probably even need solar, but cant hurt.
I think I would add the solar regardless. Always like to plan for just in case. Thanks again for all the info. Trailer is supposed to be ready for pick up at the end of Aug, but I think they are running behind. Can't wait to get started.
 
my set-up has been pretty bulletproof so far and been really effective for my needs which I can easily expand upon. Right now im only running 140ah of battery and the fridge draws anywhere from 2.5 - 5 amps. I'd guess its on the higher side as it's empty right now working harder to keep cool. Not once in almost 8 months has it shut off due to the batteries dipping below 10.7v

My truck has been sitting since Friday almost partially under a giant avacado tree and not gotta alot of good sunlight, and fridge is at:
IMG_6556.JPG
IMG_6557.JPG


the set-up. batteries are in box, controller to the right. Single dual cable running in from panel
IMG_6558.JPG
 
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Nice set up. I should totally be able to do that. Won't have room for the fridge, but it will work for what we need.
 
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