Custom Keyboards - Modding

[bonifacio]

I just liked Logitech since back in the day. Had their basic stuff growing up. When I got into completive gaming I ran a G510 and MX510. Upgraded to a MX518. Still going strong. Gave up gaming for a long time. So I grabbed a G512 and a G915 TKL both with brown switches. Bought some double shot PBT keycaps to upgrade the keys on my G512. Found out not all the keycaps fit because Logitech was gay and did a proprietary thing. I had a Keychron K2 with Gateron Blues (clicky) that's been sitting around. Not the best, but can be modded to something decent. Figured I'd give it a shot and see how I like it before dropping big money on a big boy keyboard. So I added butyl sound deadener to the bottom of the plastic housing to give it some weight and get rid of all the extra noise/vibrations. Added some PE to insulate for some sound absorption and fill some of the empty space. Taped the bottom of the PCB to give it some good acoustics. Get the good keyboard noises and block out the higher pitch sounds from the mechanics. Added a felt layer between the PCB and top plate to absorb more of the unwanted sounds. Removed and replaced all the switches with Gateron Blacks (linear/firmer/smoother). Disassembled, hand-lubed and filmed all of them. This was tedious and took forever. Have over 20 hours into just working on it. Ordered better keycaps. better quality, better sound and durability. Add o-rings to all the keycap stems to shorten distance of the keystroke and dampen the plastic hitting plastic sound from the keycap hitting the switch housing. Modded the stabilizers for smoother movement. Cut off the legs that could bottom out, added medical tape to the inside to minimize unnecessary movement and sound.
I might just finish the K2 off with a coiled aviator cable, new stabilizers and paint the aluminum rails. Keycaps should be here this weekend. I could tell a huge difference in response and feel even without the keycaps. Might think of a way to add more weight to it.

Next I'm considering a QwertyKeys QK65. Anyone else into mechanical keyboards?

 

[bonifacio]

Modded a stepped keycap to standard. Offset stem makes it out of line. Now it'll line up correctly. Couple more to go and I'll be done with my daily keyboard. I think it's gone too far once I make a jig.

 

[Meclizine]

I've fantasized about having such nice keyboards but they're priced way out of my comfort zone. I just use a Logitech MX Keys and MX Ergo at home, which are the best devices I've used so far. I'm actually on my second Ergo after wearing out the left mouse button.

That said my boss uses a mechanical keyboard made of bamboo of all things. It's very pretty and sounds great.

I'm afraid that if I spring for a mechanical keyboard I won't ever go back, and honestly your thread confirms it. I would definitely dive head first into modding them and I can't afford that along with my other hobbies! Really cool stuff, though. Thanks for sharing!

 

[bonifacio]

If you get into it, I'll send you some materials or I could just slap one together for you.

Easy, budget, full feature:

Keychron K2 - Amazon Open Box or Facebook Marketplace. I've seen them for $50 shipped. I think I grabbed mine for $55 shipped when they came out. Little more for a hot-swappable board, which you can just pull and plug the switches. Come in red, blue and brown.
Red, linear, smoother actuation, quietest.
Brown, tactile, has a bump, middle.
Blue, clicky, bump and click, loudest of the 3.
To swap switches you have to de-solder them all. People do it. I'd just rock the factory Gaterons. They are pretty decent. I've noticed the Gaterons had some lube in them in a new set I got. I re-lubed each individual one and it's not that big of a difference in my opinion. It's just when you want to get into the higher end switches which I have yet to try. Just remember the standard switches are about $30-40 a set. The nicer ones are like $80+.

Dampening - I'll send you some with the stuff I'm sending you. You can either take the time and map out the holes like I did or just throw it in pieces. (not my picture)

Tools - Key Puller, Switch Puller, Grease. Cheap and I could probably send you stuff. For a few bucks.

Keycap Set - $10-$∞ - I've found $20-50 gets you a decent set depending on what you like. I grabbed the Razer PBT Doubleshot Translucent Stealth Keys for the G512 for looks. I thought quality was decent and they had all the keys I needed so I grabbed another set of the regular Razer PBT Doubleshot Black Keys for the Keychron. Was only $25 or so. Amazon Open Box stuff is the way to go. You can also always return it as it has the same return policy as new stuff.

O-Rings - Under $10.

So for under $100, like $80ish even you can get a decent board and go from there.
For all that, I could do that for you.

Medium: Grab a GMMK Pro and tinker from there.

 

[Meclizine]

Hm, that's not nearly as much as I was expecting. The last time I looked into any of this was before Keychron, I guess. Wait, the entry level board is wireless, too?! Ahhhhh **** slippery slope here I come!

When I have some more fun money I'll probably go for the hot-swappable K4. I actually use the numpad quite a bit when I'm doing entomology stuff. The idea of replacing the switches really appeals to me. The little wireless Logitech keyboard I use at work has a failing tab key from hundreds of hours of spreadsheet work and I hate having to replace whole devices because of one tiny broken part.

With the three switch types, do you notice the differences in actuation force? Or really only the levels of feedback?

 

[bonifacio]

Hm, that's not nearly as much as I was expecting. The last time I looked into any of this was before Keychron, I guess. Wait, the entry level board is wireless, too?! Ahhhhh **** slippery slope here I come!

When I have some more fun money I'll probably go for the hot-swappable K4. I actually use the numpad quite a bit when I'm doing entomology stuff. The idea of replacing the switches really appeals to me. The little wireless Logitech keyboard I use at work has a failing tab key from hundreds of hours of spreadsheet work and I hate having to replace whole devices because of one tiny broken part.

With the three switch types, do you notice the differences in actuation force? Or really only the levels of feedback?

The more you use them, the more you notice the differences. Just becomes a preference of feeling or what feels most natural. I have a couple different keyboards because of preference or mood. How's yours doing?

 

[Meclizine]

The more you use them, the more you notice the differences. Just becomes a preference of feeling or what feels most natural. I have a couple different keyboards because of preference or mood. How's yours doing?

It's fantastic! With o-rings and stiffer springs it's much better than stock. Replacing the springs was just about the most tedious thing I've done in a long time, though. I might replace the key caps at some point but I haven't really looked into that side of things.

 

[bonifacio]

It's fantastic! With o-rings and stiffer springs it's much better than stock. Replacing the springs was just about the most tedious thing I've done in a long time, though. I might replace the key caps at some point but I haven't really looked into that side of things.

Replaced the springs? What springs or did you do the entire switches?
Did you do the foam and butyl?

 

[Meclizine]

Replaced the springs? What springs or did you do the entire switches?
Did you do the foam and butyl?

Yeah, I did all of 'em. Went with 63g complex springs but kind of wish I just went for super heavy ones, like 150g or something. I haven't put the foam in yet but that's next on the agenda. So the foam can go above or below the PCB? And butyl below?

 

[bonifacio]

Yeah, I did all of 'em. Went with 63g complex springs but kind of wish I just went for super heavy ones, like 150g or something. I haven't put the foam in yet but that's next on the agenda. So the foam can go above or below the PCB? And butyl below?

Butyl first. Foam on top. Make sure there isn't much pressure on the PCB.

This goes between the PCB and the top plate:

Switch Film goes inside the switches. You have to disassemble them: