- Joined
- May 22, 2018
- Messages
- 567
- Reaction score
- 1,083
- Location
- Holland, MI
- Website
- www.newhollandoverland.com
White
One of the biggest things I've been wanting to do for a while on the taco is to start beefing up the rear...reasons being for high-speed dune driving and jumping the truck on the dunes. Its not common for the 3rd members to tweak or break but for the small price of a truss its worth the extra insurance. If your crawling then a bash plate would be perfect for you as well to protect the thin-wall of your pumpkin.
FINISHED PHOTO:
RUFFSTUFF SPECIALTIES: (Here are the links to the truss and bash plate)
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TOYTRUSS-BACK.html
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1772.html
Here is what a stock rear will look like prior to the truss and bash plate:
Here are the parts needed from RUFF STUFF SPECIALTIES (Also showing the DMZ frame box kit)
- Truss
- Bash Plate
- 75W-90 Gear oil (5 quartz)
Additional goodies shown:
- DMZ frame box kit
- Kartek 12" Limit straps (For stock length droop)
- New Grade 8 U bolts (Fits into wheelers U-bolt flip kit which doubles as a strike plate for the bumpstops)
Start the process by draining your diff fluid, make sure you clean up your out surfaces with Acetone very very well so you dont spark any type of flame from the leftover oil (clean is key). Then place the 24mm socket back onto the fill plug and weld the small access tube onto the pumpkin, this will be your first step in starting your truss.
The key to welding your truss on (Especially if your welding it onto the axle with the axle still on the truck) is to GO SLOW. It took me 11 hours total to do this project because you are welding 1" sections from one side to the other to prevent any warping or twisting of the axle from heat. Start with the pumpkin and then move your way outwards on the axle. You will have to modify the truss to fit around the pumpkin (Its not plug and play), as well as cutting the truss 4" shorter on each end to fit next to the U-bolts. Ill eventually add back in those 4" once I relocate the shocks. For the bash plate I chopped about 2" off the top so it snugged up against the truss nicely, this will also need some modifying to fit properly around the pumpkin.
Its not necessary to remove any brake lines or ABS wires, just hang them up high and tuck them out of the way.
Here is what the finished truss will look like! Coated with STEELIT Coatings Grey
From this angle you can see how much it beefs up the axle from front to rear, and showing the King hydro bumpstop kit. I had to add about 1/2" of plate to the strike pads to accomodate the U bolts from hitting the bump canister.
And thats the finished product from RUFFSTUFF SPECIALTIES on their truss and bash plate kits!
FINISHED PHOTO:
RUFFSTUFF SPECIALTIES: (Here are the links to the truss and bash plate)
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TOYTRUSS-BACK.html
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1772.html
Here is what a stock rear will look like prior to the truss and bash plate:
Here are the parts needed from RUFF STUFF SPECIALTIES (Also showing the DMZ frame box kit)
- Truss
- Bash Plate
- 75W-90 Gear oil (5 quartz)
Additional goodies shown:
- DMZ frame box kit
- Kartek 12" Limit straps (For stock length droop)
- New Grade 8 U bolts (Fits into wheelers U-bolt flip kit which doubles as a strike plate for the bumpstops)
Start the process by draining your diff fluid, make sure you clean up your out surfaces with Acetone very very well so you dont spark any type of flame from the leftover oil (clean is key). Then place the 24mm socket back onto the fill plug and weld the small access tube onto the pumpkin, this will be your first step in starting your truss.
The key to welding your truss on (Especially if your welding it onto the axle with the axle still on the truck) is to GO SLOW. It took me 11 hours total to do this project because you are welding 1" sections from one side to the other to prevent any warping or twisting of the axle from heat. Start with the pumpkin and then move your way outwards on the axle. You will have to modify the truss to fit around the pumpkin (Its not plug and play), as well as cutting the truss 4" shorter on each end to fit next to the U-bolts. Ill eventually add back in those 4" once I relocate the shocks. For the bash plate I chopped about 2" off the top so it snugged up against the truss nicely, this will also need some modifying to fit properly around the pumpkin.
Its not necessary to remove any brake lines or ABS wires, just hang them up high and tuck them out of the way.
Here is what the finished truss will look like! Coated with STEELIT Coatings Grey
From this angle you can see how much it beefs up the axle from front to rear, and showing the King hydro bumpstop kit. I had to add about 1/2" of plate to the strike pads to accomodate the U bolts from hitting the bump canister.
And thats the finished product from RUFFSTUFF SPECIALTIES on their truss and bash plate kits!
