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ARE hard topper accessory mount (DIY)

Noodski44

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Tacoma3G O.G.
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Location
Albuquerque
2016 Limited DCSB Auto
Silver Sky
So I did a thing and I figure I would share with you all incase anyone has been interested in doing the same. I wanted a way to mount gear (rotopax, shovel and tredpro traction boards) on the side of my ARE shell. Something similar to bed racks but I want the option to keep additional gear dust free and dry. I saw a post on one of the Facebook groups but I wanted to evolve it a bit more. The post I saw had used t-slot tracks with what looked like was ubolts or something like that with a piece of aluminum. I didn't like the look of sticking out aluminum so I worked on finding something cleaner and practical. What I did is measure my windows on the shell by height and length. They are exactly 16" H x roughly 42" L. I ended up mounting the t-slots from frame to frame (height) with about 7 machine screws and lock nuts per rail. I then used t-slot nuts and 1/4" allen nuts to mount powder coated black aluminum peg boards. My idea was to make it look like it was made that way. Doing this gave me the option to mount tred pro lock mounts and quick fist mounts for a shovel on the passanger side and gave me options for 3 rotopax mounts on the driver side. Here is the final product after I mounted everything.
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Now if your interested on doing this here is some of the basics I bought. Most items in Amazon the other items at Lowe's.

T-slots
CLEAR STYLE 48 Inch Double-Cut... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNK3D6R/?tag=tacoma3g-20
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Peg board (I did have to make the holes bigger)
Wall Control Pegboard 32in x 16in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ALYYFXI/?tag=tacoma3g-20
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T-slot nuts
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TWBJSE/?tag=tacoma3g-20

I used these to mount the rails.
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I could have used 1" screws

And before anyone asks, I did waterproofed the holes I drilled and the total weight of the of gas Per gallon is 6.3lbs and a gallon of water is 8.34 lbs. So total weight of them all full is 41.88 lbs. I have had full trips with them full and I not have seen any wear, cracking or loosening or bolts. Hopefully it says that way.

Any questions let me know. Hopefully this will help anyone that is as equally curious in doing this as I was.
 
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Very nice, I have been conjuring up a similar plan but was thinking of mounting unistrut on both sides of the fiberglass. Sandwich the wall. If yours support s all this. .. I may just duplicate your setup
 
Think it would hold a Jerry can? 'fraid for my fiberglass
 
Wow this is the first I’ve ever seen anyone do this and honestly this is a GREAT idea
 
How is it holding up? any signs of rust ? I think I am going to build one, thanks!
 
@Tyler , yeah I agree but probably not at more than mirrors and I don't like laying on the side on the roof. I have seen jeeps do it, but landcrusiers and defender s look really cool with it
 
@Tyler , yeah I agree but probably not at more than mirrors and I don't like laying on the side on the roof. I have seen jeeps do it, but landcrusiers and defender s look really cool with it
Hey all @TRH, @Tyler @Romp-A-Taco, @17cementpro . Thanks y'all. As far weight there is no issues even carrying the full weight of about 50lbs off the glass shell. I've even tan over 2500 miles on dirt and roae with them fill.The biggest issue is using the the cheap peg boards, because they will break with weight bouncing around. But I will be upgrading the fuel cell wall to molle panel. I will be having someone local make me a custom cut and fit. I will also change from t-slots to Yakima or Thule tracks to gain better support of hardware. The t-slots limit what hardware you can use. As far as Jerry cans just consider the cans raw weight not full. I wouldn't go more than the 50 lbs. I'm working on the inside of the shell to mount racks to the extending bolts to mount gear. This allows me to store additional gear, supplies to the internal window. I'll post an updates one done.
 
So I've made some minor upgrades to the rotopax side. I have a buddy with a molle panel from his Jeep that he wasn't using so it worked out to hold the rotopax on the Tacoma on the current mounts I have.
IMG_20200304_161350_01.jpg
The pegboard panel eventually crack with added weight from the gas and water while on off-roading. Here's the panel that's cracked.
IMG_20200304_164719_01.jpg
it still held up but it would eventually crack more with added trips. Here's the new panel.
IMG_20200304_163745.jpg

I used some brackets laying around for the bottom. They keep the panel from resting on the window.
IMG_20200304_163740.jpg

The rotopax mounts fit behind the panel but they were a little tight. They hold up good and gives me the same function. I will lower them a bit more later. But they don't vibrate anymore how the pegboard was.
IMG_20200304_174805.jpg
IMG_20200304_174811.jpg

Now the peg board panel on the other side with traction boards are great. I won't change that side out because its very functional to remove the panels and add tools like a shovel or axe to the quick fist clamps.
 
I also added some panels inside the bed for hold my shovel, first aid kit and other quick items
IMG_20200123_092206_MP.jpg
IMG_20200123_090951.jpg
IMG_20200123_090921.jpg

I used cheap wire grid panels, wire clamps and the existing window frame screws to attach them. They hold up well. I attach items with reusable zip ties.
 
questions for anyone who has done this

1. what type of eyelet clamps did you have to use, to secure mesh to window bolts

2. Remora Offroad uses extruded aluminum bar stock for their outer mounts. Why not use that, instead of T-slot rails?

3. Anyone know a good place to get cheap MOLLE panels that have the right size to work for this application?
 
questions for anyone who has done this

1. what type of eyelet clamps did you have to use, to secure mesh to window bolts

2. Remora Offroad uses extruded aluminum bar stock for their outer mounts. Why not use that, instead of T-slot rails?

3. Anyone know a good place to get cheap MOLLE panels that have the right size to work for this application?

1. The mesh screen or the wire rack? Assuming the wire rack.
Looks like he just used standard nylon cable clamps/clips.

2. They might not have been around when OP put this together.
Availability. Weight. Mounting. Spacing. Stress points.

3. Couldn't find that one on the MPS site. If you get the dimensions I'm sure I could help find something.

If you do go this route, I'd recommend figuring out a better solution for support. Aluminum panel or washers would be good.
Good idea. But I worry about long term wear on the fiberglass.
 
Get bed stiffeners…….you need them with all the extra weight and stress
 
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