Any and all input on 37's is needed...

[lost.jake]

I'm finally to the point on wanting to take my truck to the next level. I've been tossing around the idea of making the jump to 37 inch tires, along with some other mods like hangers, shock relocation etc. I'm really just trying to get opinions from anyone on pro or cons of running 37's. My truck is NOT a daily driver, it's an over priced toy, it only comes out fo the garage to hit the trails. To see my current set up and give opinions check out either my IG: lost.jake or my thread on here https://tacoma3g.com/threads/jakes-2019-pro-build.8760/

 

[Tacomadad18]

I support this decision. It’s actually coming soon for mine too lol.

The best opinion on 37s would be @WarFabArmor as they have been running them for a while.

 

[lost.jake]

I support this decision. It’s actually coming soon for mine too lol.

The best opinion on 37s would be @WarFabArmor as they have been running them for a while.

Seeing their truck on IG has actually been my inspiration. I'm just trying to gather all information that I can and all the opinions that I can before making the jump. Those tires aren't cheap lol and I'm also having to go to 17" rims as well if I do go to 37's

 

[WarFabArmor]

Appreciate the feedback.
I think there are some things to consider before making the jump. We went super basic and minimal when first goinng to 37 and are now going back through and doing "it right".
By that I mean we were cool with some rubbing, didn't tub, never ran anything fast so hitting upper wheel well was ok, and ran stock suspension parts. We accomplish the goal of showing you don't 'need' big money parts to play and have fun. Hell we still have stock sr5 front skid only.
However. To really use the 37, we are doing some different parts. Doing a lot of cutting. And really trying to optimize what we can do with the truck.
Running that large of a tire and wheeling, keep it low. Help your CV by keeping a lower angle on them.
Tub. Just beating the wheel well will be ok for slow a d controlled stuff. But any hard bumps you're going to rub. Tub it and be done.
Brakes. We are still on factory and they still work just fine.
Steering/front locker. Know when you're bound up and how to fix it. Know when to unlock if you have a front locker. Everything is going to see a burly load increase.
Wheels. Wheels are a way bigger part or this than most will tell you. Your offset and suspension width are going to create or cure issues you might or might not have by only changing those things.
I'd recommend a bigger steering cooler. I'd swap one for the season, but we are already set on going to hydro anyway.
Rear fits no problem.
Front diff braces. The factory ones are ok. We are looking at building our own that are beefier. The front moves a little under load/climbs any letting that diff move is going to just cause headache.
I'll add more if I think of anything else

 

[lost.jake]

Appreciate the feedback.
I think there are some things to consider before making the jump. We went super basic and minimal when first goinng to 37 and are now going back through and doing "it right".
By that I mean we were cool with some rubbing, didn't tub, never ran anything fast so hitting upper wheel well was ok, and ran stock suspension parts. We accomplish the goal of showing you don't 'need' big money parts to play and have fun. Hell we still have stock sr5 front skid only.
However. To really use the 37, we are doing some different parts. Doing a lot of cutting. And really trying to optimize what we can do with the truck.
Running that large of a tire and wheeling, keep it low. Help your CV by keeping a lower angle on them.
Tub. Just beating the wheel well will be ok for slow a d controlled stuff. But any hard bumps you're going to rub. Tub it and be done.
Brakes. We are still on factory and they still work just fine.
Steering/front locker. Know when you're bound up and how to fix it. Know when to unlock if you have a front locker. Everything is going to see a burly load increase.
Wheels. Wheels are a way bigger part or this than most will tell you. Your offset and suspension width are going to create or cure issues you might or might not have by only changing those things.
I'd recommend a bigger steering cooler. I'd swap one for the season, but we are already set on going to hydro anyway.
Rear fits no problem.
Front diff braces. The factory ones are ok. We are looking at building our own that are beefier. The front moves a little under load/climbs any letting that diff move is going to just cause headache.
I'll add more if I think of anything else

Really appreciate the feed back. I'm not moving fast into it by any means, I want to do it the right way. Right now I'm just trying to gather all useful information that I can while going into it and making sure its what I want out of the truck. How does it do on the road? My truck isnt a daily but I will still be driving to and from trail heads. I live over in the Appalachian area so 85% of our trails are slow and technical, def wont be desert running or anything.

 

[WarFabArmor]

Really appreciate the feed back. I'm not moving fast into it by any means, I want to do it the right way. Right now I'm just trying to gather all useful information that I can while going into it and making sure its what I want out of the truck. How does it do on the road? My truck isnt a daily but I will still be driving to and from trail heads. I live over in the Appalachian area so 85% of our trails are slow and technical, def wont be desert running or anything.

So we are at 5700'. Our highways are 55-65mph. To go to Denver area we run up over 10000' several times, and we still got 20mpg. (truck is sitting 55mph on dash to run 65. So rpm are at or below 2k to cruise that speed. Truck has plenty of power with the 529 and no tune. We are also a very lightly and simply built truck, so not a ton of weight to move.
At interstate speeds, the fuel mileage tanks. 75-80 mph just kills us, especially if it's hilly. We get down to that 14-15 range. No sway bar turns and stops fine. No issues. Ash is comfortable driving it without concern. (Worth noting we are spool rear, realistically you should get better fuel mileage than us depending how you drive )
Turning stationary is a problem and good way to eat up steering. Just do the poly rack bushings ahead of time. You'll need them.

 

[lost.jake]

So we are at 5700'. Our highways are 55-65mph. To go to Denver area we run up over 10000' several times, and we still got 20mpg. (truck is sitting 55mph on dash to run 65. So rpm are at or below 2k to cruise that speed. Truck has plenty of power with the 529 and no tune. We are also a very lightly and simply built truck, so not a ton of weight to move.
At interstate speeds, the fuel mileage tanks. 75-80 mph just kills us, especially if it's hilly. We get down to that 14-15 range. No sway bar turns and stops fine. No issues. Ash is comfortable driving it without concern. (Worth noting we are spool rear, realistically you should get better fuel mileage than us depending how you drive )
Turning stationary is a problem and good way to eat up steering. Just do the poly rack bushings ahead of time. You'll need them.

Awesome, do have 529 and don't run alot of weight either, just a tool chest in bed and some armor. No bedrack or rooftop tent and all that. I appreciate you helping me out! Can't wait to see watch you alls build continue.

 

[Trudog]

This a thread I will be playing close attention to. I hope to see a lot of feedback. After getting stuck in deep snow time after time I decided to have 37" as well however I want it done right. I know Meso customs truck is running 37" he also has long travel, frame mount relocation, fiberglass panels and a ton of hammering to wheelwell?. Marlincrwaler has the RCLT in development that would assist with this size tire. To do it right without stressing other components or rubbing is a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion!
https://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/rclt/rclt-hd

 

[WarFabArmor]

This a thread I will be playing close attention to. I hope to see a lot of feedback. After getting stuck in deep snow time after time I decided to have 37" as well however I want it done right. I know Meso customs truck is running 37" he also has long travel, frame mount relocation, fiberglass panels and a ton of hammering to wheelwell?. Marlincrwaler has the RCLT in development that would assist with this size tire. To do it right without stressing other components or rubbing is a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion!
https://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/rclt/rclt-hd
View attachment 21446

The RCLT only fixes part of the problem, and worsens the other part. As a whole the wheel well is just too small for this big of tire. So you're going to have to remove some wheel well to make room. be it a little bit on the front and the back, or with the RCLT way more on the front.
Glass is nice, and definitely helps with the aesthetics depending on your application. The big part of fitting 37s is going to be the inner fender your scrub radius and how you fit the pieces as a whole. Remember that for this tire to fit at stuff it needs to fit stock so lift height or any of that won't matter, all your trimming and everything should be at full bump.

 

[lost.jake]

This a thread I will be playing close attention to. I hope to see a lot of feedback. After getting stuck in deep snow time after time I decided to have 37" as well however I want it done right. I know Meso customs truck is running 37" he also has long travel, frame mount relocation, fiberglass panels and a ton of hammering to wheelwell?. Marlincrwaler has the RCLT in development that would assist with this size tire. To do it right without stressing other components or rubbing is a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion!
https://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/rclt/rclt-hd
View attachment 21446

The RCLT does look nice but at the same time I want to see what they price it at. If I can keep from going any form of long travel to keep the truck from sitting wide, a lot of the trails we ride around here are narrow as it is.

 

[Trudog]

The RCLT does look nice but at the same time I want to see what they price it at. If I can keep from going any form of long travel to keep the truck from sitting wide, a lot of the trails we ride around here are narrow as it is.

I agree with you as going wider is not the answer, it will limit the places I like to wheel.

 

[Trudog]

Appreciate the feedback.
I think there are some things to consider before making the jump. We went super basic and minimal when first goinng to 37 and are now going back through and doing "it right".
By that I mean we were cool with some rubbing, didn't tub, never ran anything fast so hitting upper wheel well was ok, and ran stock suspension parts. We accomplish the goal of showing you don't 'need' big money parts to play and have fun. Hell we still have stock sr5 front skid only.
However. To really use the 37, we are doing some different parts. Doing a lot of cutting. And really trying to optimize what we can do with the truck.
Running that large of a tire and wheeling, keep it low. Help your CV by keeping a lower angle on them.
Tub. Just beating the wheel well will be ok for slow a d controlled stuff. But any hard bumps you're going to rub. Tub it and be done.
Brakes. We are still on factory and they still work just fine.
Steering/front locker. Know when you're bound up and how to fix it. Know when to unlock if you have a front locker. Everything is going to see a burly load increase.
Wheels. Wheels are a way bigger part or this than most will tell you. Your offset and suspension width are going to create or cure issues you might or might not have by only changing those things.
I'd recommend a bigger steering cooler. I'd swap one for the season, but we are already set on going to hydro anyway.
Rear fits no problem.
Front diff braces. The factory ones are ok. We are looking at building our own that are beefier. The front moves a little under load/climbs any letting that diff move is going to just cause headache.
I'll add more if I think of anything else

Can you discuss hydro for your steering? I was under the assumption hydro is for straight axel? In addition front diff bracing will it be a product you sell or just for your purpose. Appreciate any and all feedback!

I was drooling over 73 weld portal axels, however that would be a whole new build!

 

[WarFabArmor]

Can you discuss hydro for your steering? I was under the assumption hydro is for straight axel? In addition front diff bracing will it be a product you sell or just for your purpose. Appreciate any and all feedback!

I was drooling over 73 weld portal axels, however that would be a whole new build!

With ifs you have two real options, go swing set steering which is a ton of cad, a ton of calculations, and a ton of fab time.
Orrrrr.....
What I plan. Yank out rack. Cut xmember. Put in thinner, but beefier xmember. Install a 4 clamp hydro ram. Go solid links and heims. Roughly same overall cost and time as installing a tundra rack. Wayyyyyy better.
Now before all the 'thats not safe on the street' folks chime in....hydro has come a very long way. Driven multiple hydro rigs, with 40+ bias tires at highway speeds, a few with rear steer even. It's solid, if you set it up right. Also this truck is a toy. It will see road miles sure, because it needs to still be able to get back to tow rig, or run locally. But it's intent is performance. I can add internal or external bumps for steering to prevent out throwing the CV. Allows slight adjustment to help get steering angles a little better.
I'm not sure on the bracing yet. Still sourcing options myself.

 

[Trudog]

I'm finally to the point on wanting to take my truck to the next level. I've been tossing around the idea of making the jump to 37 inch tires, along with some other mods like hangers, shock relocation etc. I'm really just trying to get opinions from anyone on pro or cons of running 37's. My truck is NOT a daily driver, it's an over priced toy, it only comes out fo the garage to hit the trails. To see my current set up and give opinions check out either my IG: lost.jake or my thread on here https://tacoma3g.com/threads/jakes-2019-pro-build.8760/

I am getting closer to getting 37s however debating on 35s for now. Wanted to circle back around and see if you have any more feedback on the subject? Where I am at is 5.29 gears for over a year now, front air locker, fenders are trimmed, big break kit and rear disc conversion going in next week along with steering upgrade, thinking I will need to do some tubing at firewall as well as cut back the steel bumpers after cutting fenders.

Thanks for any feedback!