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5.29 Regear on stock
- Thread starter heaveho
- Start date
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- Tags
- gears / lockers
@UploadAdventure did and he’s loving it. Added locker as well.
Although he does run a rack, rear swing out and tent.
Although he does run a rack, rear swing out and tent.
Icefog34
5️⃣ Platinum
I am not staying stock, but I went with 5.29 as well as a front locker. Couldn't be happier. I was warned about the RPMS getting too high since I don't have 33s for tires. But so far it hasn't been bad at all!
5.29’s are awesome.
Here’s the deal though.
If you’re going to stay on 33’s or lower and not add a bunch of weight. Go with 4.88’s. That’ll be perfect for highway driving and such.
and as far as the locker. You or a shop is already in there. Might as well do it. Otherwise it’s +6 hours labor and a gear reset up. Might as well as just do it one and done.
Here’s the deal though.
If you’re going to stay on 33’s or lower and not add a bunch of weight. Go with 4.88’s. That’ll be perfect for highway driving and such.
and as far as the locker. You or a shop is already in there. Might as well do it. Otherwise it’s +6 hours labor and a gear reset up. Might as well as just do it one and done.
Icefog34
5️⃣ Platinum
Honestly I haven't noticed too much issue with it, but then there aren't many hills around here. I'll be putting it through its paces f
more though. I'll try to pay close attention and let you know
@UploadAdventure. By "bunch of weight", how much? 200lbs, 500lbs, 1000lbs?
I probably wouldn’t run more that 5-600 lbs.
Pretty if you get full armor and stay under 33 you’d be good. Now this doesn’t include a roof rack. Bed rack. RTT. If you’re going to be adding all that then you might want to think about them 5.29’s.
You hit them 35’s and you might not see an issue 4.88’s, but it’ll be shifting a lot more.
Right now I hold 6th pretty much all the time. I drive 35 miles each way for work. 6th at 70 is about 2400 rpm. I’m on 285/70/17 (32.7) if I go up in tire size to 285/75/17 my rpm will drop to like 2200. Etc etc. But I’m rarely if ever in 4th. Where as before I couldn’t even see 6th on the stock gears.
Icefog34
5️⃣ Platinum
You're making me feel better about my decision to go with 5.29's. I added the bed rails, will be going with a RTT, as well as a new high clearance rear bumper with swing arms.
I’ll tell you this.
I’ve NEVER heard anyone complain about 5.29’s. But I have heard people wish they had done them over 4.88’s...
Icefog34
5️⃣ Platinum
I believe it. I figured if I was going to spend the money to do it, why waste it on the smaller gear that may or may not make much difference. Go big! lol
Exactly. Why have to do it twice. I know several guys who have done it twice...
but. 4.88’s do have their place. Staying close to stock and 33’s 4.88 is money. Especially with OV Tune.
6th gear on my truck. At 70. On 285/70/17 (32.7) I sit at 2400 or so.
I never see 4th unless I’m gunning it. Or the adaptive cruise is on.
That’s a jump- I’m thinking 4.88
If you don’t go any higher than 33’s 4.88’s should be fine.
disclaimer. I’ve never been in a 3rd with 4.88’s. This is just a general suggestion I’ve learned from others who discuss their experiences with me.
I recommend watching this. It's basicly where I found my answers.
Original link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxBWZGQIScI&lc=Ugx0VPIpIxt765Vpw3x4AaABAg.93fYiq6GYEw98HYOCOe-F2
I often run my truck on 4th on the highway. Given the gear math, I think it gives an idea what it might be like (I may be way off on this) I run mostly stock (32 inch tires) with a GFC on the bed full time. Once this virus stuff clears up, I'm going to find an installer and get it done to 5.29.
CleanestPianist
2️⃣ Bronze
I'll add my experience after this little note. Everyone is going to experience gears differently. This is why you see people preaching 4.88s on flat ground. Where as someone who lives in a hilly area or at elevation, would preach 5.29s. You also need to take into account of which transmission you have. If you have an automatic, 5.29s are the way, if manual, you need to really think about whether you need 5.29s.
Everyone will also have different driving habits, someone might drive "like a grandpa" and 4.88s would probably be more than enough. I see a lot of people say their trucks perform just fine with stock gears on 33's. These people probably either don't drive highway speeds frequently, or they live in a mostly flat area. Then there are people like me. I would sell the truck before being forced to stay with stock gears on 33's
Now. With all that being said, I have 5.29's in mine on stock tires with the automatic trans. Granted, I intend on fitting a tire around 33"-35". I also intend on a steel rear bumper, aluminum front, full skids, and a RTT on a bed rack (or canopy, still undecided).
I live on a very hilly island, and hit roughly 50mph each way to and from work, uphill and back down, most of the way. I legitimately can't think of one road on my island that isn't at least a 2% grade for the majority of it. With that, for me, they work great compared to the 3.91s. I'd even go as far as saying I wish I could have more. I'm certain that when I get the tires on, my next upgrade will be OV tune.
But that's just with my driving habits in my area. It could be different for you.
Everyone will also have different driving habits, someone might drive "like a grandpa" and 4.88s would probably be more than enough. I see a lot of people say their trucks perform just fine with stock gears on 33's. These people probably either don't drive highway speeds frequently, or they live in a mostly flat area. Then there are people like me. I would sell the truck before being forced to stay with stock gears on 33's
Now. With all that being said, I have 5.29's in mine on stock tires with the automatic trans. Granted, I intend on fitting a tire around 33"-35". I also intend on a steel rear bumper, aluminum front, full skids, and a RTT on a bed rack (or canopy, still undecided).
I live on a very hilly island, and hit roughly 50mph each way to and from work, uphill and back down, most of the way. I legitimately can't think of one road on my island that isn't at least a 2% grade for the majority of it. With that, for me, they work great compared to the 3.91s. I'd even go as far as saying I wish I could have more. I'm certain that when I get the tires on, my next upgrade will be OV tune.
But that's just with my driving habits in my area. It could be different for you.
Dumb question time: why add a locker to the front? is that primarily for crawling over bolders and such?
Thanks, thats helpful. So question for you: what are your thoughts on which gear I should get?
Here is what I have: TRD OR with approximately 3.5" lift on 295/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I have an aluminum front bumper and steel rear bumper. Steel sliders and Prinsu Roof Rack. I do not have RTT or rack (never plan to). I don't tow anything (maybe will rent a tear drop some day). I don't bolder crawl (its not a Jeep). My MPG is 13 and it hunts for gears, and is slow as a dog. I want to regear to improve MPG and provide a smoother drive in city/hwy. Future plans are to MAYBE add a winch and replace the rear bumper with a CBI swing out to hang my tire back there.
What gear ratio should I go with?
Not a dumb question!
It makes the truck a true 4 wheel drive vehicle. It’s good for rocks and such. But also good for mud. Climbing up hills in the trails. Good for loose rock on trails. Sand.
It makes the front have power to both wheels.
5.29s
You're running essentially a 34" tire and a significant amount of weight. I'd recommend 5.29s.
Historically yes, going to a higher gear like a 5.29 from the factory 3.91 for example, has been considered to weaken the gear strength due to each tooth getting thinner. As materials have gotten better the likelihood of breaking a gear due to it having weakened has diminished.
The general thought is that for the manual transmission trucks, the 4.88 gears are closer to the 5.29s in an auto. There aren't many manual trucks running 5.29s as the general consensus is that the manual trucks respond really well to 4.88s.
This thread re-piqued my interest in regearing.. so I'd love to hear your guys opinions on my situation as well as pose some more general questions myself and others might have. Gears are one area I really haven't done much research on.
Currently 2" lift all around on 275/70/R17 (effectively 32" tire) with Prinsu, bed rack, RTT (occassionally). Future plans could include a front and/or rear bumper (aluminum) and aftermarket skid.
With the stock gears, I only really notice the gear hunting when in cruise control and hitting an overpass (I live in FL so not many hills)
That said, I never really feel like my truck is lacking power off the line or too high with RPMs on the highway.
How does a regear affect off-road performance? Better/worse?
Is torque increased which could make the truck more prone to CV failure?
How does a tune factor in? Tune first then regear or vice versa? Tune not needed?
Currently 2" lift all around on 275/70/R17 (effectively 32" tire) with Prinsu, bed rack, RTT (occassionally). Future plans could include a front and/or rear bumper (aluminum) and aftermarket skid.
With the stock gears, I only really notice the gear hunting when in cruise control and hitting an overpass (I live in FL so not many hills)
That said, I never really feel like my truck is lacking power off the line or too high with RPMs on the highway.
How does a regear affect off-road performance? Better/worse?
Is torque increased which could make the truck more prone to CV failure?
How does a tune factor in? Tune first then regear or vice versa? Tune not needed?
I'm going to start looking for a shop to re-gear and locker for me.
Hoping to get a shop that can do it with keeping the truck just overnight.
I'll drive to the city, take a Uber to the hotel.
Or have a gear shop build a couple of 3rds and get those swapped in.
It looks like I can expect to pay about 1800 for a 3rd member geared and locked, with a core swap.
Hoping to get a shop that can do it with keeping the truck just overnight.
I'll drive to the city, take a Uber to the hotel.
Or have a gear shop build a couple of 3rds and get those swapped in.
It looks like I can expect to pay about 1800 for a 3rd member geared and locked, with a core swap.
I only know of one person with 5.29 in an MT and that’s because they added a FWC. MT trucks either stay stock or go 4.88.
putting 4.88 in an AT puts the final drive ratios close to a stock MT.