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4.88 Gears

D

Deleted member 643

possibly a ghost :(
Hey guys, making this thread primarily because of a lack of available information regarding 4.88 gears for the 3rd gens. Hopefully you guys find this thread useful.

I made the change a bit over a year ago and wanted to gather as much data as possible in order to determine the true benefits. Part of that data collection meant running the truck in multiple configurations, i.e. with RTT, fully loaded with bikes, gear and RTT, no RTT, long road trips, low elevation, high elevation etc, you get the point..

Please note, fuel economy will vary based on your location, elevation, setup etc. But, my goal was to try and eliminate some of the guess work as this upgrade is most definitely a bit of a financial commitment.

Now, on to my setup; Truck as it stands today.... 2017 TRD OR 4x4, DCSB. I am running an Icon stage 9 lift with stage 3 S2 in the front and Icon stage 2 RXT in the rear. Tires are E rated 285/75 R17 Toyo MT. I have sliders, aluminum skids and a winch as well as a host of lights. While I have tried to keep the weight of the add ons low, it is added weight nonetheless. When I put the Toy MT's on, I knew that I had to get gears. Just wasn't an option anymore. Truck hunted for gears, had horrible fuel economy and generally was a bit of a chore to drive. So, knowing that gears need to be setup properly, there was only one shop near me that I trusted enough to tackle the project, SDHQ Offroad. These guys are a premier shop with an unmatched commitment to quality, so they were the obvious choice for me.

In the early stages of doing my research, Serena at SDHQ mentioned that they have all of the gear sets that they install REM polished prior to installation. So, I dug a little deeper into the process. Find out more here; https://weddleindustries.com/services/house-rem-polishing-process-weddle-industries

In a nutshell, REM polishing strengthens the gear-sets while also effectively eliminating the standard break in procedure, which was a huge bonus for me considering I didn't necessarily have the time to work the the proper heat cycles, oil changes and the like. If you do gears, I would highly recommend having this done. As an added note, SDHQ has Nitro 4.88's in stock, already REM Polished and ready to ship for both the e-locker and non e-locker differentials.

Onto my observations; Overall, the truck is vastly improved, accelerates easily from a stop, keeps RPM's low and more importantly, doesn't hunt for gears anymore, like at all.. Cruising on the freeway at 80 mph, my RPM's hover just above 2k while the truck is parked in sixth gear. And when I stomp on the skinny pedal, the truck moves. Just has a lot more get up and go than it ever did in stock form.

Next up, MPG's. Here I am going to post multiple scenarios to give somewhat of a cross section as to what to expect.

I live in Scottsdale AZ. at an elevation under 2k feet and on average I see 18 to 19 mpg with mixed highway and around town driving. That's without the tent because I do not keep in on all of the time. With the tent on, driving around town I see about a half a mile per gallon drop.

I do travel to higher ground to go camping or mountain biking etc. Take for example Flagstaff, AZ. Sits a bit of 6k in elevation so it's a bit of a climb getting up there. With just bikes, I see about 17 mpg going up the hill and about 16 with tent, bikes and a few hundred pounds in camping gear.

Now onto even higher elevations. I took two road trips to Colorado this summer, Crested Butte, Ouray, Durango, Telluride, Aspen and Winter Park. Up there, I was seeing approximately 20 to 22 mpg which was awesome, and another indicator that I need to move to CO!! Ha ha.. That was just bikes, no tent.

Truck has no problem hitting 90 plus mph, even loaded down and again, revs stay low unless I am really on it trying to pass someone.

So highway driving is cool and all, but what about offroad..... Well, on my most recent trip I really got to put it to the test tackling Pearl Pass from Crested Butte to Aspen. Definitely not an easy trail and there are a few sections where 4lo and the locker got a workout. With the 4.88's in 4 low, wow, truck has torque and can easily get itself up and over rocks with very little driver input, similarly, on steep, long hillclimbs, the truck walks right up without having to put your foot to the floor. So from a trail perspective, gears really were a HUGE improvement in the trucks performance.


If you couldn't tell by now, I am more than happy with my decision to take the leap and go to 4.88's. I use my truck and use it often so I wanted it to be comfortable and enjoyable both around town and on long road trips and the gears definitely achieved that goal.

One thing is for certain, if you go this route, choose a shop that KNOW's WHAT THEY ARE DOING and does gears frequently, I cannot stress that enough. Further, if I were to do this again, I would again choose to go with the REM polishing for that added piece of mind. As I stated previously, if you want to eliminate the guesswork, you can order pre REM Polished 4.88's directly from SDHQ. They are on the shelf and ready to ship..

** Another thing to note is that you will need to recalibrate your speedometer. Mine was WAY off, so I quickly picked up the Hypertech In Line Speedo Recalibration devise and that solved the problem. Speedo is dead accurate now**

Now I guess we can open this up to discussion. Other that have gears, @JTS2014TACO @Lord Humongous please feel free to weigh in and share your experiences. I would have loved to have had an in depth opinion on gears when I made the jump, but that info just wasn't really out there. Hopefully this helps anyone that is on the fence. I cannot thank @SDHQ OFFROAD enough for their impeccable work, guidance and service through this whole thing. I am very picky with who I let work on my truck but I trust them 200% to do anything to it...
 
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Badass. The jump from 4.30 to 4.88 wouldn't be worth the expense, but 5.29s would make it much more worthwhile... in line with the change from the 3.90s to 4.88s for the automatic trucks.

Oh for sure, but 5.29's on a street truck is starting to swim in some dangerous waters. My 85 toyota had 5.29's on 37's and though it could drive on the street, it was slow as fuck. Excellent rock buggy though. I had a marlin doubler as well as re reared the transfer case. Thing could crawl straight up a wall with zero driver input.... Just couldn't go above 65
 
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Great writeup, I was on the fence about this, now I'm not. What was the total cost?
 
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I’ve done the 4.88 gear swap and added an ARB front air locker b/c why not, but my speedo and odometer is off by 10%.

Is the Hypertech part #730123 the right one to get? I read the install instructions and I don’t see anywhere that describes how to input the tire and gear info?

Trolled around looking for a thread that talks about the Hypertech tune, but couldn’t find one, so if there is a more appropriate place for this question plz let me know.
 
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I’ve done the 4.88 gear swap and added an ARB front air locker b/c why not, but my speedo and odometer is off by 10%.

Is the Hypertech part #730123 the right one to get? I read the install instructions and I don’t see anywhere that describes how to input the tire and gear info?

Trolled around looking for a thread that talks about the Hypertech tune, but couldn’t find one, so if there is a more appropriate place for this question plz let me know.
I'm glad you asked here because I'm curious which one everyone is using also. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pick one up now just for tires and be able to use it later for gearing.

Next question would be... would it be the same part for '16-'17s and '18s since the '18s use different ECUs?
 
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I'm glad you asked here because I'm curious which one everyone is using also. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pick one up now just for tires and be able to use it later for gearing.

Next question would be... would it be the same part for '16-'17s and '18s since the '18s use different ECUs?

I went to Hypertech’s website and used the “Find your vehicle” and that was the part number it gave me. At the top it says 2018 Toyota Tacoma 3.5L V6 Gas. I did the same thing for the 2017 and it gave the same part # as the 2018.

When I looked into it a while back their website didn’t have anything for the 2018, so maybe it’s been updated since then. It does state that it’s a speedo and odometer correction.
 
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I went to Hypertech’s website and used the “Find your vehicle” and that was the part number it gave me. At the top it says 2018 Toyota Tacoma 3.5L V6 Gas. I did the same thing for the 2017 and it gave the same part # as the 2018.

When I looked into it a while back their website didn’t have anything for the 2018, so maybe it’s been updated since then. It does state that it’s a speedo and odometer correction.
Cool, I'm not sure if I was seeing a different version of the website or what but I couldn't find the part number lookup. Thanks! (y)
 
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That is the correct unit. When I did mine, I had to use their provided CD (had to first find a damn computer with a disk drive) to program the unit. I think they have since updated it to where you can program the unit online through a USB cable. It is very easy, however when I did mine, they had an issue with the devices that they were aware of where changing the gear ratio and using the metric tire size would not work. So, you had to just input the actual size in inches of the tire.
 
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That is the correct unit. When I did mine, I had to use their provided CD (had to first find a damn computer with a disk drive) to program the unit. I think they have since updated it to where you can program the unit online through a USB cable. It is very easy, however when I did mine, they had an issue with the devices that they were aware of where changing the gear ratio and using the metric tire size would not work. So, you had to just input the actual size in inches of the tire.
How's it install? Did you pop out the gauge cluster or is it just tucked under the dash somewhere?
 
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I would venture to say going to any E-rated 33+" the 4.88s are a must have. I'm rolling on 285/70-17 Toyo MTs. I'm still not completely satisfied with the power. Its better than it was for sure, but i'm always riding around in ECT, and wishing the truck had more grunt. Will definitely be looking into doing some sort of custom tune.
 
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I’ve done the 4.88 gear swap and added an ARB front air locker b/c why not, but my speedo and odometer is off by 10%.

Is the Hypertech part #730123 the right one to get? I read the install instructions and I don’t see anywhere that describes how to input the tire and gear info?

Trolled around looking for a thread that talks about the Hypertech tune, but couldn’t find one, so if there is a more appropriate place for this question plz let me know.
Did you download the software and program the module on your PC? It should have come with a USB cable that you plug into the little box and into your computer. The "Quick Start Guide" is here. I remember bookmarking it because it was so hard to find. Start with step 2 because the software link they have in step 1 is wrong. You can download the software here.

Edit: When I programmed mine a few months ago, my actual speed was about 4-5 mph faster than what my cruise control is set at. I wonder if they fixed this issue.

1531253933064.png
 
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Did you download the software and program the module on your PC? It should have come with a USB cable that you plug into the little box and into your computer. The "Quick Start Guide" is here. I remember bookmarking it because it was so hard to find. Start with step 2 because the software link they have in step 1 is wrong. You can download the software here.

Edit: When I programmed mine a few months ago, my actual speed was about 4-5 mph faster than what my cruise control is set at. I wonder if they fixed this issue.

1531253933064.png
who sets cc at 41 tho......
 
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Did you download the software and program the module on your PC? It should have come with a USB cable that you plug into the little box and into your computer. The "Quick Start Guide" is here. I remember bookmarking it because it was so hard to find. Start with step 2 because the software link they have in step 1 is wrong. You can download the software here.

Edit: When I programmed mine a few months ago, my actual speed was about 4-5 mph faster than what my cruise control is set at. I wonder if they fixed this issue.

1531253933064.png

I haven’t actually purchased it yet. I’m wondering if I should even purchase it. I’m getting used to both the speedo and odometer being out of whack. My OCD is settling down a bit.

Plus I’m sketched about taking out my instrument cluster. Lame I know.

Does that small black box sit there and rattle behind your instrument cluster?
 
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I haven’t actually purchased it yet. I’m wondering if I should even purchase it. I’m getting used to both the speedo and odometer being out of whack. My OCD is settling down a bit.

Plus I’m sketched about taking out my instrument cluster. Lame I know.

Does that small black box sit there and rattle behind your instrument cluster?

Removing the cluster is super easy, I promise. In my opinion, it's worth the expense for sure. As for the box, I used double sided 3m Tape to secure it back there and it hasn't made a peep in over a year..
 
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I haven’t actually purchased it yet. I’m wondering if I should even purchase it. I’m getting used to both the speedo and odometer being out of whack. My OCD is settling down a bit.

Plus I’m sketched about taking out my instrument cluster. Lame I know.

Does that small black box sit there and rattle behind your instrument cluster?
Oh gotcha. It's super easy to take out, dude! You just pull off the dash bezels and there's 4 screws that hold it in. Then just unplug it, plug the Hypertech inline and put it back together. Just program the thing beforehand if you decide to get it. I'm going to reprogram mine to see if they fixed the CC issue.

To answer your question, no the little box doesn't rattle around in there. It's a pretty tight fit but if it did, it would drive me fuckin crazy for sure!
 
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Doesnt the gas and odometer also get thrown off? It would drive me crazy not doing the soeedo calibration
 
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Doesnt the gas and odometer also get thrown off? It would drive me crazy not doing the soeedo calibration
Not the fuel gauge itself but the mpg calculator yes, and the odometer definitely.
 
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Doesnt the gas and odometer also get thrown off? It would drive me crazy not doing the soeedo calibration

Everything appears to be off. Not sure exactly what kind of MPG’s I’m getting. I have to add about 10% to my mileage to get in the ballpark.
 
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I guess I’ll give my input since I also regeared. I got 4.88 Yukon gears installed because I upgraded to 315/70/17 KO2 e rated. That’s about 62 lbs a tire. My current mpg is 15. I’m in San Diego. Truck performs the way it should off roading, including going up steep hills.
You should strongly consider regearing if you plan on going 33” and bigger with a consistent load on the bed.

8FE30ECF-FF36-454C-BEED-333059AC84DF.jpeg
 
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I guess I’ll give my input since I also regeared. I got 4.88 Yukon gears installed because I upgraded to 315/70/17 KO2 e rated. That’s about 62 lbs a tire. My current mpg is 15. I’m in San Diego. Truck performs the way it should off roading, including going up steep hills.
You should strongly consider regearing if you plan on going 33” and bigger with a consistent load on the bed.

8FE30ECF-FF36-454C-BEED-333059AC84DF.jpeg
Looks like my bumper will have to wait, gonna look into getting the truck re-geared!
 
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I didn’t see anything on here about ECGS thirds and clamshells.
I went that route. If you have some mechanical skill you can save yourself 1500$ by installing yourself and sending back your “cores”. Took me about 6 hours total on a lift while taking my time.
This way there is no error from a shitty installer that can’t set the gears correctly. Paying 3k for gears is a little ridiculous.
I would rather have the third member and clamshell shipped to a shop and have them instal rather than have someone actually regear your current setup. There is too much to go wrong, too much money to lose, and too much time to lose for someone not doing the job correctly.

Most people don’t live by sdhq and most people wouldn’t want to pay their marked up prices. So here is a solid option that costs half of what anyone paid who went to sdhq or someone that just paid roughly 3500 for the instal and parts.
 
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I didn’t see anything on here about ECGS thirds and clamshells.
I went that route. If you have some mechanical skill you can save yourself 1500$ by installing yourself and sending back your “cores”. Took me about 6 hours total on a lift while taking my time.
This way there is no error from a shitty installer that can’t set the gears correctly. Paying 3k for gears is a little ridiculous.
I would rather have the third member and clamshell shipped to a shop and have them instal rather than have someone actually regear your current setup. There is too much to go wrong, too much money to lose, and too much time to lose for someone not doing the job correctly.

Most people don’t live by sdhq and most people wouldn’t want to pay their marked up prices. So here is a solid option that costs half of what anyone paid who went to sdhq or someone that just paid roughly 3500 for the instal and parts.
Pretty broad blanket statement assuming you know what anyone paid. Nevertheless, the ecgs option is a good one for anyone with some mechanical know how.

As an aside, there is a warranty and service behind whatever sdhq and most other shops charge, so there is a fallback. If someone were to screw up installing their own 3rds or clamshell, it's on them, so theres that to consider as well.

Blanket statements are fine and dandy, just be sure that you factor everything into that those statements and not just what's on the surface
 
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I use blankets when I sleep. Blankets are covers to cover something up. I’m just uncovering that you don’t need to pay 3k to regear because that is the average. Most people are cheap and don’t want to spend every dollar they make at sdhq....Not everyone is Instagram sponsored by sdhq nor will they pay drastically less for a regear. It roughly cost about 1000-1600 to have someone regear(quoted from multiple places). It also costs about 1300 for the nitro gear set give or take a 100 for some special polishing. Now I’m sure everyone will come up with their number that they paid X dollars. But call around and you’ll pretty much get the same answers.
About ur warranties, just like I stated it’s all time to lose for someone to have a shop fix their mistake, warranty or not.
Sdhq does hundreds of them. So if they screwed up that would just be sad. But not every random shop specializes in Toyota like them. So blankets or sleeping cold it’s mostly a safer bet to have ecgs send u a third and clamshell and have a trusted shop install if you can’t yourself, while saving a bunch of money. This is if you don’t live close to sdhq like the majority of the USA. Sdhq is awesome. They are masters at what they do. So if you went to them and got it done then that’s great.
And not really sure how u can mess it up. There is nothing to mess up. That work is already done in the gearset. It’s a simple swap of a part. Setting the correct mesh is the “hard part” per say and is what most shops usually mess up when regearing. Oh and ecgs has a warranty too!
 
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Front locker now or front locker with regear? Not even sure I wanna regear - maybe just OVTune - but I think I would use the hell out of the front locker.
 
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Front locker now or front locker with regear? Not even sure I wanna regear - maybe just OVTune - but I think I would use the hell out of the front locker.
I would hold off on the OVTune until you try the new reflash/firmware update Toyota put out.

Regearing would definitely be worth it and putting a locker and the ECGS bushing in at the same time makes total sense.
 
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I would hold off on the OVTune until you try the new reflash/firmware update Toyota put out.

Regearing would definitely be worth it and putting a locker and the ECGS bushing in at the same time makes total sense.
WAIT. When? How? Why? Who?

I didn’t know there’s an update. Unless you don’t mean recent?
 
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Front locker now or front locker with regear? Not even sure I wanna regear - maybe just OVTune - but I think I would use the hell out of the front locker.
Don't waste your money on the OVtune until you get the free reflash. Made a HUGE difference in my truck. As for the locker, I wish I would have done it when I did my re-gear but oh well, live and learn, I will add an ARB up front eventually. At least I can install that myself and not have to pay a shop to do it.
 
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