2016 Alternator Replacement DC Power Engineering 270A

[Hamhouke]

I am swapping the stock TRD Off-Road alternator for a 270A model from DC to drive a charger for LiFePO4 batteries in my travel trailer. At least, that was the plan. I am having a bear of a time getting the old alt out and the new alt (supposedly the correct part for this truck) didn't fit properly as shipped. I am going to have to reclock it because the positive stud contacts the frame when tightened up.

There seems to be something on the back of the alternator stopping it from being removed even after removing the two mounting bolts, the batt cable, electrical plug, and two cable mounting bracket bolts on the side. I can't work it free. I have searched the depths of the Interwebs with no luck for a 3rd gen, and even broke down and bought the Haynes manual (which was less than worthless on this subject). I also searched this forum with no luck.

Has anyone removed their alt on a 3rd gen here? Am I missing a trick? Any pointers would be appreciated.

 

[Trudog]

I contacted DC Power and ultimately sent it in for them to change the Alternator so it would fit, still have not installed as of yet, however it was a very frustrating process to say the least as there advertised as plug and play?

 

[Hamhouke]

Yeah, it will need to be reclocked to move the power stud over, I think. Is that what they did for you?

I did find the nut for the bracket that was giving me fits today. It was on a youtube video of a Lexus alt swap. Its a 14mm nut right under the intake manifold support bracket lower stud. You can't see it from the top or bottom of the engine, but that's the problem. I will be finishing the install tomorrow if all goes to plan. I am taking pictures, so I will post them tomorrow night if that helps out.

 

[Hunter399]

Any updates? i am planning on getting one

 

[ForTheWin]

Yeah, it will need to be reclocked to move the power stud over, I think. Is that what they did for you?

I did find the nut for the bracket that was giving me fits today. It was on a youtube video of a Lexus alt swap. Its a 14mm nut right under the intake manifold support bracket lower stud. You can't see it from the top or bottom of the engine, but that's the problem. I will be finishing the install tomorrow if all goes to plan. I am taking pictures, so I will post them tomorrow night if that helps out.

I can see the bolt. You can see it too. If you stand on the driver's side with your flashlight right near the door, and angle your view down behind the alternator; you can see that bolt head going forward. You can see the edge of the bracket too. That same bracket holds the wire bundle from the LIN too. I cannot seem to get the socket up high enough onto the bolt head. I have yet to get the socket onto the bolt head. Something is blocking it from above, I think, but I cannot tell what. The bolt head seems like it is a 12mm, not a 14mm; but I could be wrong. It makes sense that the mount bolts would all be 14mm, but that one looks and feels smaller.

 

[ForTheWin]

I am swapping the stock TRD Off-Road alternator for a 270A model from DC to drive a charger for LiFePO4 batteries in my travel trailer. At least, that was the plan. I am having a bear of a time getting the old alt out and the new alt (supposedly the correct part for this truck) didn't fit properly as shipped. I am going to have to reclock it because the positive stud contacts the frame when tightened up.

There seems to be something on the back of the alternator stopping it from being removed even after removing the two mounting bolts, the batt cable, electrical plug, and two cable mounting bracket bolts on the side. I can't work it free. I have searched the depths of the Interwebs with no luck for a 3rd gen, and even broke down and bought the Haynes manual (which was less than worthless on this subject). I also searched this forum with no luck.

Has anyone removed their alt on a 3rd gen here? Am I missing a trick? Any pointers would be appreciated.

I took this photo last night of the bolt or bolts you'll have to remove (one or the other) to remove a gen 3 Tacoma alterntor. I have not yet been able to remove them. These are on the inside bottom closest to the engine. They're hard to reach. It feels like you're reaching a quarter the way under the engine to get to them with plenty of tight scratchy parts between to rub your arm on. It's totally blind going in.

 

[ForTheWin]

I am swapping the stock TRD Off-Road alternator for a 270A model from DC to drive a charger for LiFePO4 batteries in my travel trailer. At least, that was the plan. I am having a bear of a time getting the old alt out and the new alt (supposedly the correct part for this truck) didn't fit properly as shipped. I am going to have to reclock it because the positive stud contacts the frame when tightened up.

There seems to be something on the back of the alternator stopping it from being removed even after removing the two mounting bolts, the batt cable, electrical plug, and two cable mounting bracket bolts on the side. I can't work it free. I have searched the depths of the Interwebs with no luck for a 3rd gen, and even broke down and bought the Haynes manual (which was less than worthless on this subject). I also searched this forum with no luck.

Has anyone removed their alt on a 3rd gen here? Am I missing a trick? Any pointers would be appreciated.

Removal of at least one of those two 12mm headed bolts on the bracket at the rear bottom of the alternator is not the only thing stopping this replacement. You'll also have to cut the support off the wires to get the LIN plug to go around the corner, since the LIN plug on the DC Power Engineering Inc 270 amp alternator faces to the outside instead of to the rear, like the stock alternator.
The fun doesn't stop there though. If your stock Denso alternator is a tow package 130 amp, you'll need to connect an additional heavy battery cable to also bypass the Alternator ALT 140 amp fuse in the fuse box with some heavy cable going from the (+) output of the alternator to the battery. If you do not, the first time that 270 starts to go over 140 amps, it will blow that little fuse and your truck will be dead in the street. Unfortunately, that fuse is bolted in at the bottom in two places (you cannot just pull it and replace it). You have to disassemble the fuse box to replace that 140 amp fuse. I do not know if there is a 270+ amp fuse replacement. Anyway, the 4 AWG cable is too small to carry 270 amps. MUST do a "Big 3 upgrade" to replace the 130 amp alternator with something more powerful.