The day I brought it home, July 2020.
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The day I brought it home, July 2020.
Only “mod” I’ve done is extend the AC hose. Bought some products to air down and up.
Waiting on some parts that should have shipped with my sliders to install them.
Also dealing with a choice:
1) Remove the stock Tacoma emblem.
2) PlastiDip the Tacoma emblem.
3) Leave the Tacoma emblem chrome.
Too windy to do anything today and I’ll probably decide by this weekend. Feel free to lend opinions.
Waiting on some parts that should have shipped with my sliders to install them.
Also dealing with a choice:
1) Remove the stock Tacoma emblem.
2) PlastiDip the Tacoma emblem.
3) Leave the Tacoma emblem chrome.
Too windy to do anything today and I’ll probably decide by this weekend. Feel free to lend opinions.
Those sliders are a piece of art!
Thank you.
I think a few folks follow me on instagram. I've shared my frustration with UPS and Victory4x4.
My sliders came with everything except the cross member plates. Oddly enough the first time I read about the installation of these was on TW, which they didn't get the plates either.
Victory4x4 has shipped out 2 pair of plates. The first package came empty. The UPS guy handed it to me. Kinda light for 2 plates of steel. A hole had worn through the paper envelope. Another package was sent that I was told was more stout than the first. Well, it was out for delivery yesterday but now marked as In Transit again.
I was pretty sure I was going to wait for the plates until this morning. Went and picked up some 3/16" x 2" x 36" hot rolled steel and a fresh 1/2" bit.
Wouldn't recommend cutting the metal like I did. What I had, I knew would work but it was harder, not smarter. I was going to round the corners but I'll probably leave it unless there's an issue. The template seemed to go in fine but it's more forgiving than a piece of steel.
Once the POR 15 Top Coat sits overnight, if the plates from Victory still are not here, I'll probably start the install. Should go well since there's snow in the forecast.
My sliders came with everything except the cross member plates. Oddly enough the first time I read about the installation of these was on TW, which they didn't get the plates either.
Victory4x4 has shipped out 2 pair of plates. The first package came empty. The UPS guy handed it to me. Kinda light for 2 plates of steel. A hole had worn through the paper envelope. Another package was sent that I was told was more stout than the first. Well, it was out for delivery yesterday but now marked as In Transit again.
I was pretty sure I was going to wait for the plates until this morning. Went and picked up some 3/16" x 2" x 36" hot rolled steel and a fresh 1/2" bit.
Wouldn't recommend cutting the metal like I did. What I had, I knew would work but it was harder, not smarter. I was going to round the corners but I'll probably leave it unless there's an issue. The template seemed to go in fine but it's more forgiving than a piece of steel.
Once the POR 15 Top Coat sits overnight, if the plates from Victory still are not here, I'll probably start the install. Should go well since there's snow in the forecast.
Sliders in. RokBlokz mud flaps in. Chrome bumper covers dipped. Visited some of the historic buildings of Fort Snelling.
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I didn’t install them yet. Waiting on a switch for the dash and contemplating if I’ll get a panel for under the hood or not for more lights.
Here are the cut outs for the new lights and the lights themselves:
Here are the cut outs for the new lights and the lights themselves:
The Blitz sliders took about 4.5 hours total. Drivers side at 3 hours. Roughly 40 degrees out in the garage, single stall. Plus some sprinkling.
Did the passenger side in an hour with 30 minutes of messing with the drivers side some more.
Did the install solo. Certainly shorter in time than the long arm setup on my old WJ but just as curse inducing with the bolts up front on the driver’s side.
Did the passenger side in an hour with 30 minutes of messing with the drivers side some more.
Did the install solo. Certainly shorter in time than the long arm setup on my old WJ but just as curse inducing with the bolts up front on the driver’s side.
You betcha. Oddly enough, one of the hardware bags included the bolts for the old style.
Oh, one more mod done this weekend. Perhaps the most important?
I'm working on a video regarding my slider install. One of the more irritating aspects of the install instructions and their video is the: Tools Needed, for installation. I wasn't sure were I should post this but I'll put it in my build post.
Install documentation from their website:
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 1/2" wrench
- pry tool
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Here is my list and notes regarding tools:
* Anywhere you see this, it refers to the serrated nuts. To which I found only 3 of 36 actually stopped spinning when tightening using just the button head/hex bolt. 33 of them I needed to put a wrench on the nut to get it tight. As my sliders were powder coated, that may play into it.
Ratchet: choose your own adventure/availability.
- I used 3/8" and 1/2" drive for the sockets I had.
- Extension: you may need one or a few depending on drive. Clearing the brake lines and or part of the C frame was my common use case.
Pry tool, or flat blade screw driver.
Magnet pick-up tool (to put the nut inside the cross member).
# Don't buy this one, I did and it didn't fit in the hole of the cross member:
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...k-up-tool/2432619/p-1565073315992-c-19379.htm
Alternatively you can stick your digit in the hole and push the nut to the point of threading it on, which I did.
Remove bolts and nuts from the Tacoma:
* cross member bolts in the rear:
- 14mm socket/wrench
* nuts (boxed end frame cover, brake line block, electronics box)
- 12mm socket or wrench (socket makes sense for the frame cover on the driver's side as the brake line block is kinda in the way)
Installing vanity plates (Victory 4x4 logo):
- 4mm or 5/32" hex
- 11mm or 7/16 socket/wrench*
Installing the lights (new style):
- 3mm or 3/32" hex
- 8mm or 5/16" socket/wrench*
# I have not installed the lights yet on my sliders but did install one before uninstalling since I'm working on the electronics setup for lights on the Tacoma.
Installing legs onto the rails:
- 8mm or 5/16 hex
- 19mm or 3/4" socket/wrench*
Installing bolts and nuts provided by Victory 4x4 for side and cross member mounting:
- 19mm or 3/4" socket
- 19mm or 3/4" wrench
- Ratchet (I used 1/2" drive)
Install documentation from their website:
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 1/2" wrench
- pry tool
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is my list and notes regarding tools:
* Anywhere you see this, it refers to the serrated nuts. To which I found only 3 of 36 actually stopped spinning when tightening using just the button head/hex bolt. 33 of them I needed to put a wrench on the nut to get it tight. As my sliders were powder coated, that may play into it.
Ratchet: choose your own adventure/availability.
- I used 3/8" and 1/2" drive for the sockets I had.
- Extension: you may need one or a few depending on drive. Clearing the brake lines and or part of the C frame was my common use case.
Pry tool, or flat blade screw driver.
Magnet pick-up tool (to put the nut inside the cross member).
# Don't buy this one, I did and it didn't fit in the hole of the cross member:
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...k-up-tool/2432619/p-1565073315992-c-19379.htm
Alternatively you can stick your digit in the hole and push the nut to the point of threading it on, which I did.
Remove bolts and nuts from the Tacoma:
* cross member bolts in the rear:
- 14mm socket/wrench
* nuts (boxed end frame cover, brake line block, electronics box)
- 12mm socket or wrench (socket makes sense for the frame cover on the driver's side as the brake line block is kinda in the way)
Installing vanity plates (Victory 4x4 logo):
- 4mm or 5/32" hex
- 11mm or 7/16 socket/wrench*
Installing the lights (new style):
- 3mm or 3/32" hex
- 8mm or 5/16" socket/wrench*
# I have not installed the lights yet on my sliders but did install one before uninstalling since I'm working on the electronics setup for lights on the Tacoma.
Installing legs onto the rails:
- 8mm or 5/16 hex
- 19mm or 3/4" socket/wrench*
Installing bolts and nuts provided by Victory 4x4 for side and cross member mounting:
- 19mm or 3/4" socket
- 19mm or 3/4" wrench
- Ratchet (I used 1/2" drive)
I mean this does show off my new mud flaps and dipped bumper covers.
Worth is more than price but let me write a bit about the sliders.
Price: Total cost shipped to the local FedEx freight yard (about 1.5 miles from my house): $1300. Powder coat and shipping are add-ons from the original price, much like any other manufacture.
Installation: The outdated installation pdf and video seem to be useful until you start putting them in. Comparing the installation to my iron rock off road long arm kit on my Jeep WJ, the documentation and video are shit for the sliders. I get Victory's aspect, they want it to seem easy so you buy them. My main beef with it is the "adjustability" when the sliders are on the truck. If you leave the button head bolts that mount the rails/sliders to the legs loose, you have to tighten them on the truck. Which for me was a pain the ass because I had to put a wrench on the nut inside the slider. The adjustment comes out to probably 1" so for my frustration of getting 2 hands in the slider (one on the wrench behind the bracket and the other on the hex/allen key) then tightening, IDGAF about that 1".
Utility: I don't have a lift as of yet so we are running at stock height. Right now, they get in the way for me stepping in and out of the truck. Mainly because I'm tall enough to do so from the ground. I got these sliders so they can act as a step for my wife who is about 10" shorter than I am. She can get in and out no problem at stock height but add 3" and we have a different story.
I'm sure I'll think of more after hitting post but that is my overall thoughts on worth. If I was going for sliders with no intention of using them as steps, I'd get something like this: 05-Present Toyota Tacoma 25 Degree Rock Sliders
I'll be working on a video that hopefully will be useful but since the installation took precedence over filming, it might not be that useful.
RokBlokz mudguards and rear bumper covers dipped. I have the rock slider video in the hopper so that's coming soon.
Original link: https://youtu.be/F9sDtzA9nQM
This is the driver’s side, which didn’t take a hit today.
This is the passenger side which took a hit today. The slider hit the body of the truck, which is the white spot on the body. The spot just before the back button head bolt on the plate. Plus the gap is much smaller on this side from front to rear.
I had much higher expectations. @Victory4x4 this can’t be normal, can it?
I don’t have any pictures from the under side of the slider since I just cleaned up from a little off road action.
This is the passenger side which took a hit today. The slider hit the body of the truck, which is the white spot on the body. The spot just before the back button head bolt on the plate. Plus the gap is much smaller on this side from front to rear.
I had much higher expectations. @Victory4x4 this can’t be normal, can it?
I don’t have any pictures from the under side of the slider since I just cleaned up from a little off road action.
kwill
4️⃣ Gold
This is disappointing. I have the same sliders but have yet to bang them very hard. Even so, the gap between the sliders and the body is not consistent from front to back or from one side compared to the other. That doesn't really concern me but if they are easily displaced when performing their function I worry.
Please give our customer service team a call or shoot them an email. 269-353-1184 or [email protected], they can walk over the install with you and see what revision of the brackets you have. We'll figure out what's up 
Observations in the morning sun:
All the side bolts for the passenger side were loose. The transmission cross member bolt was tight. About half of the rail button head bolts, the ones that mount the legs to the rails, loose.
Additionally I checked the driver’s side and some seemed like they could use another quarter to half turn.
Finally I checked the brake lines under the electronic box. I flexed them up but the one was squarely resting on the bolt head. Debating on taking that bolt out and grinding it down like I’ve seen other setups have.
I’m tempted to take the whole setup off the truck and put blue locktite on them but I’m not going to mess with that until spring, if I go that route.
I have no idea how the passenger side was that loose but I figured it might be since I stepped on the rain this morning and it moved down. Here is a video of what the rail looks like. I’ll try to find the video on my action camera of what I hit later.
View attachment 26370
View attachment 26370
My wife dug the short video. That is her hand writing so she was happy to finally get to see the stickers or patches make it to the end user.
The serrated lock nuts should hold with enough torque on the bolt, but you could certainly put blue Loctite on them as well. I never had issues with the ones loosening on my blue truck, but we have seen some strange variation in the cabs from passenger to driver. The mounts are totally mirrored, but as @kwill said, sometimes we see the slider closer on the passenger side. Short of loosening all the body mounts and aligning the cab, our solution was to actually space the sliders farther off the frame on both sides with a leg revision. Admittedly this doesn't look as nice, but it will give some extra room.
Thanks for the follow up.