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Roof Light Bar Wiring

bonifacio

8️⃣ Paragon
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2019 TRD OR
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How are you guys running your roof light bar wiring to the battery? I know there is a spot between the molding and windshield. Some wires don't like to stick there.
upload_2018-8-14_23-38-49.jpg

There's also the tighter spot between the molding and a-pillar. Some wiring doesn't fit.
upload_2018-8-14_23-38-49 - Copy.jpg


Any other ideas? Without drilling in. Don't say KC Wire Hider. Seems bulky and would make it uneven.
 
i'm going to have to revive this thread. can any of you guys with roof lights share your wiring methods? any issues you have with where you routed the wires? has anyone gone through the bed light in back or up through the shark fin? i am planning on a 40 inch light bar facing forward and a couple 6 or 8 inch ones facing the back. i am going with the Victory 4X4 rack.
 
i'm going to have to revive this thread. can any of you guys with roof lights share your wiring methods? any issues you have with where you routed the wires? has anyone gone through the bed light in back or up through the shark fin? i am planning on a 40 inch light bar facing forward and a couple 6 or 8 inch ones facing the back. i am going with the Victory 4X4 rack.

Just run it down that spot on the windshield. Either gonna have to jam it in there or there is a cover they make for it. I ended up removing the wiring all together then resleeving it through the conduit connector and making it 2 separate lines to fit inside that channel better. The wiring I had was super thick sleeving. Been running it for a while now.

For the pods in the rear, just run the wiring to one side, then along the roof rack. Where are you mounting the rear ones?

Will the front and rear be on the same switch or will they be independent? It would make it a lot easier wiring if you do it on one.

I don't even know where to run that line down.
Run a fused line from the battery to the roof rack. Slap on a waterproof box to the roof rack. Add in a small terminal block. Connect the light bar and the rear pods to that terminal block.
You could lift this molding and see if you can run a line down that way. Just can't think of a way to run the line from the rear down the back to run underneath.
If you wanted them to be run on separate switches, just run 2 lines up. Running the lines down might be too thick to take down 2.
To run that clean you might have to just mount the pods at the top of the bed.
 
as soon as i figure out what gage wire i am going to need i'll see how it fits around the windshield. i might just go with that cover. i would actually like to get 3 conductors up there in case i want to add scene lights on the sides later. i have a double switch that matches the toyota ones but i might replace that panel by my left knee and use separate switches. i have a waterproof box for the relays and fuses under the hood and i'll use a small box up behind the fairing on the rack, then run the wires down inside the rack side pieces.
 
as soon as i figure out what gage wire i am going to need i'll see how it fits around the windshield. i might just go with that cover. i would actually like to get 3 conductors up there in case i want to add scene lights on the sides later. i have a double switch that matches the toyota ones but i might replace that panel by my left knee and use separate switches. i have a waterproof box for the relays and fuses under the hood and i'll use a small box up behind the fairing on the rack, then run the wires down inside the rack side pieces.
Don't think you even need the waterproof box under the hood unless you are taking the truck swimming. Just remember if you want to keep it all on one switch or two. That will determine how many lines get run in that crack. Most are thing enough to run down. Some are just thicker. Might get lucky to just run both down. Sometimes you can even flatten it out.

I didn't like the wire hider. I thought it was too bulky. Would have had to put it on both sides to make it look even.
26166_202_e2af4c7a_74a7_4c08_a214_a9646c82cd69.jpg
 
Here's how mine actually looks. Then I just realized I never installed my BD Dome Lights. I guess I could run it down the other side...

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y4mFHIE09z3fhDE2Zs9TNbYMbil7-ODJ4npKhGpj0eptlPGMnb1lBrKGntwk91Va0EB1nuyaI4KSh1Wk6EGrTc900hv7kl3HOhohGmlmVyMGhXs1HSQZK5CiqBd-5QeCif9Jidc4cSP6YhMM21hFnpQdLCsJ-Vwbx1fsMw_R3A5GiXP2f2-aXIEPTHzStEgdTYIcaw7CSUo-LGQnQ_i6P7emRaXRCZ0zPL3qhk170V6H6Q
 
that looks good. i'm not a fan of the "wire hider" either. i'm only going to have 240W in front. i'll run 12awg and go up both sides if i have to. one for the front and the other for back and maybe side lights. did you run a ground up there too? i was thinking of using a rack mount bolt for the ground. not sure how good that will work though.
 
that looks good. i'm not a fan of the "wire hider" either. i'm only going to have 240W in front. i'll run 12awg and go up both sides if i have to. one for the front and the other for back and maybe side lights. did you run a ground up there too? i was thinking of using a rack mount bolt for the ground. not sure how good that will work though.

All the grounds were done under the hood coming off the relay. Only the line from the light runs down and to the relay.
They're all ground on the terminal block.
 
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