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35” tires on stock OR wheels (photos inside!)

Tyler

Tyler

🔟 Mythical
Badministrator
Volunteer T3G Editor
So I have always wanted to know what this setup would look like. I’ve never been able to find 35s on the stock OR wheels, until tonight because I just got done mounting them.

This thread is for anyone else that might be curious.

Important: I purposely adjusted my UCAs to add a sketchy amount of camber so the tires would clear them. This was only to creep my way home from where I mounted the tires. This will be completely fixed when my wheel spacers come on Sunday. I won’t be driving the truck until then.

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WarFabArmor said:
How wide are those factory wheels- 7.5”? Have to run pretty low on street to keep solid wear patch?
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They are 7” and it is recommended to run 7.5” or wider for 35s.

I will overcome whatever side effects come my way from doing this, like the wear pattern.
 
Tyler said:
They are 7” and it is recommended to run 7.5” or wider for 35s.

I will overcome whatever side effects come my way from doing this, like the wear pattern.
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I was just curious what pressure you’ll need to keep em even. I ran 12.5 on a 7” wheel. Poor mans beadlock lol. I ran em high on the street because corners got ate up on the trails so balanced out.
 
WarFabArmor said:
I was just curious what pressure you’ll need to keep em even. I ran 12.5 on a 7” wheel. Poor mans beadlock lol. I ran em high on the street because corners got ate up on the trails so balanced out.
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Makes sense. I will learn as I go. To be honest I’m not THAT concerned about this because I abuse them off-road anyway and really end up shortening their lifespan.
 
Malcolm said:
Looks fucking killer. And also @WarFabArmor Ive been running 30psi on the road, seems to be pretty even. and YES poormans beadlocks. Was telling @Tyler all about that.
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Oh that’s not too bad at all then. I think I was like 22psi to run a complete contact patch. But ran higher for reasons above. Old Toyota steelies make the best poormans since the beads are so steep.
 
WarFabArmor said:
Oh that’s not too bad at all then. I think I was like 22psi to run a complete contact patch. But ran higher for reasons above. Old Toyota steelies make the best poormans since the beads are so steep.
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If I switch off these wheels I do plan on going to those steelies.
 
Corrections. The tires 315/75R16 BGG KM3 need a rim width range of 8-11", per info from TireRack.com. A rim with 7" width is way too narrow. Been thinking about trying something with just of .5" difference, from specs needed and the rimes I have (same as yours). An 1" narrower rim is too much. It seems that it shows on the tires, how bulgy they are. Thanks for the info, do. A local tire dealer did not even want to install tires on rims that are barely .5" narrower, so nevermind 1" difference.
 
Tyler said:
So I have always wanted to know what this setup would look like. I’ve never been able to find 35s on the stock OR wheels, until tonight because I just got done mounting them.

This thread is for anyone else that might be curious.

Important: I purposely adjusted my UCAs to add a sketchy amount of camber so the tires would clear them. This was only to creep my way home from where I mounted the tires. This will be completely fixed when my wheel spacers come on Sunday. I won’t be driving the truck until then.

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Not gna lie if I had seen pics of this before I got my wheels I would’ve done the same still looks badass man!
 
XTacoma said:
Corrections. The tires 315/75R16 BGG KM3 need a rim width range of 8-11", per info from TireRack.com. A rim with 7" width is way too narrow. Been thinking about trying something with just of .5" difference, from specs needed and the rimes I have (same as yours). An 1" narrower rim is too much. It seems that it shows on the tires, how bulgy they are. Thanks for the info, do. A local tire dealer did not even want to install tires on rims that are barely .5" narrower, so nevermind 1" difference.
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You’re right.
 
XTacoma said:
Corrections. The tires 315/75R16 BGG KM3 need a rim width range of 8-11", per info from TireRack.com. A rim with 7" width is way too narrow. Been thinking about trying something with just of .5" difference, from specs needed and the rimes I have (same as yours). An 1" narrower rim is too much. It seems that it shows on the tires, how bulgy they are. Thanks for the info, do. A local tire dealer did not even want to install tires on rims that are barely .5" narrower, so nevermind 1" difference.
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To be honest, i have to respectfully disagree. People have been running 35's and bigger on 7-7.5's for quite some time with success, and on non beadlocks. While companies may not recommend it, its merely a liability concern. They arent called poormans beadlocks for no reason. one of the biggest reasons its advised to go with a wider wheel is due to the fact that tred wear will not be even unless ran at lower PSI.
 
Malcolm said:
To be honest, i have to respectfully disagree. People have been running 35's and bigger on 7-7.5's for quite some time with success, and on non beadlocks. While companies may not recommend it, its merely a liability concern. They arent called poormans beadlocks for no reason. one of the biggest reasons its advised to go with a wider wheel is due to the fact that tred wear will not be even unless ran at lower PSI.
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I gues only if it’s strictly a weekend truck for offroading only then ?
 
Malcolm said:
To be honest, i have to respectfully disagree. People have been running 35's and bigger on 7-7.5's for quite some time with success, and on non beadlocks. While companies may not recommend it, its merely a liability concern. They arent called poormans beadlocks for no reason. one of the biggest reasons its advised to go with a wider wheel is due to the fact that tred wear will not be even unless ran at lower PSI.
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Yeah im with you for sure. Going by recommended actions, you shouldn’t alter your trucks suspension at all and stick with oem components elsewhere as well.
It’s a toy. Do what you want to make it work. Have fun.
 
Just wondering what your lift higth is? I’ve got a DCLB and think it doesn’t look very “balanced” with a 3 inch on 285s and yours looks amazing.
 

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so what lift kit are you ru8nning exactly. im looking at putting a 3 inch kit and WAS WONDERING IF THE 35S WILL FIUT ON STOCK WHEELS WITH A 3 INCH LIFT KIT.(wheel spacers will be installed)
 
jordanfos56 said:
so what lift kit are you ru8nning exactly. im looking at putting a 3 inch kit and WAS WONDERING IF THE 35S WILL FIUT ON STOCK WHEELS WITH A 3 INCH LIFT KIT.(wheel spacers will be installed)
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In those photos I had Icon adjustable coil overs in the front. I had them cranked about to about 3” of lift. In the rear I had Icon remote resi shocks with Dakar HD leaf springs. Those springs being heavy duty and me not having anything in the bed of the truck gave me about 4” of lift in the rear.

You can run 35s with a 3” kit. You need wheel spacers in the front but not the rear. Doing that will have the front and rear tires at a very similar width. You should probably have aftermarket upper control arms, though not necessary.

You will need a cab mount chop and might need to cut some plastic too. But that depends on how much rubbing you want to avoid. I wheeled the truck so I cut as much as I could but if you only intend to stay on the street the rubbing won’t be as noticeable.
 
Hey if you can put five people on a motorcycle doing 65 in Malaysia you can put 35s on stock wheels.🤪🤣
 
CBrob said:
Look up @Tacomadad18 think he did something with pizza cutters and no chop.
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You won’t rub as bad but you will still rub. With stock bumps I rubbed inner fender (metal) if you had beefier bumps, probably wouldn’t rub there because it was every so slight.

Cmc is still needed and pinchweld needs to be flattened. There’s no way around it, these trucks do not like big tires.

I’m sitting here on 37s and had to tub firewall, basically relocate cab mount, run no fender liners. Only thing that makes it worth it is.... I hardly drive the truck. Back and forth to the grocery store once a week and to the offroad park lol
 
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