Reference New guy with a Question

[TRD_dee151]

I have a Stock 2023 TRD OFF ROAD, and i would like to lift it a lil Nothing Fancy, I like the Bilstein shock, But I know nothing about this stuff I have posted a link, would like to know if this set up Alone with just shocks will lift my truck? and are these Straight Forward? Like just Remove my shocks and replace these?

Bilstein 6112 Strut & Spring Assembled + Rear 5100 Shocks Set for 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma 4WD

Fits 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma 4WD Bilstein 6112 Strut & Spring Assembled + Rear B8 5100 Shock 24-186728 47-309975. New parts, expert support, free shipping.

www.shocksurplus.com

 

[gelsi2033]

A good choice. Can't go wrong with 6112's. The kit linked will only lift the front so be conservative when selecting height setting if you plan to keep the rear stock. 1" up front should bring it to level.

 

[TRD_dee151]

A good choice. Can't go wrong with 6112's. The kit linked will only lift the front so be conservative when selecting height setting if you plan to keep the rear stock. 1" up front should bring it to level.

well thats good to know, I would like to level it or lift it all, at least 2 to 2.5 inches, with just struts & shock sets? is there any out there that will get me close to these numbers?

 

[gelsi2033]

well thats good to know, I would like to level it or lift it all, at least 2 to 2.5 inches, with just struts & shock sets? is there any out there that will get me close to these numbers?

Front is not a problem but if you want to avoid replacing your upper control arms you may want to stay at 2". I had my stock UCA for a year with 2" lift and alignment was fine, but ball joint on driver side wore out after just 18k miles and needed to be replaced. I opted to swap my control arms to avoid this problem in the future (lifting can open Pandora's box. Not saying it will, but there are possible issues to consider like the more pronounced angle of your ball joints if keeping stock UCA, CV angles and torn boots, needle bearing failing in front diff, vibration due to pinion angle in rear etc.)

Rear you either need a block, add a leaf, or new leaf pack. Really depends on how you plan to use your truck and your budget as to which way you should go. If just a daily and mostly on pavement and not hauling a lot in the bed, the cheapest lift option is a block. Add a leafs are a step up without changing your stock leaf pack. Full leaf packs are the most expensive but typically give you the best performance along with allowing you to put more weight in the bed.

There are so many options out there I would recommend browsing and reading up on a bunch of different setups before deciding.

Either way the kit you have linked is good and will get you part of the way there, but you will need something to lift the rear.

For reference mine is roughly 2"/2" front and rear.
Front is Bilstein 6112 with 650# springs (standard 6112 come with 600# springs which is fine if you don't plan to add a front bumper).
Rear is full leaf pack Deaver U402 stage 1 which advertises up to 300# of weight in bed and a 2" lift. It does come close to being as advertised and they are great but pricey.

 

[TRD_dee151]

Front is not a problem but if you want to avoid replacing your upper control arms you may want to stay at 2". I had my stock UCA for a year with 2" lift and alignment was fine, but ball joint on driver side wore out after just 18k miles and needed to be replaced. I opted to swap my control arms to avoid this problem in the future (lifting can open Pandora's box. Not saying it will, but there are possible issues to consider like the more pronounced angle of your ball joints if keeping stock UCA, CV angles and torn boots, needle bearing failing in front diff, vibration due to pinion angle in rear etc.)

Rear you either need a block, add a leaf, or new leaf pack. Really depends on how you plan to use your truck and your budget as to which way you should go. If just a daily and mostly on pavement and not hauling a lot in the bed, the cheapest lift option is a block. Add a leafs are a step up without changing your stock leaf pack. Full leaf packs are the most expensive but typically give you the best performance along with allowing you to put more weight in the bed.

There are so many options out there I would recommend browsing and reading up on a bunch of different setups before deciding.

Either way the kit you have linked is good and will get you part of the way there, but you will need something to lift the rear.

For reference mine is roughly 2"/2" front and rear.
Front is Bilstein 6112 with 650# springs (standard 6112 come with 600# springs which is fine if you don't plan to add a front bumper).
Rear is full leaf pack Deaver U402 stage 1 which advertises up to 300# of weight in bed and a 2" lift. It does come close to being as advertised and they are great but pricey.

If I just stick with the kit above or a fox 2.0 I can just replace these and have not to worry about nothing eles? If so that's the route I'll take.

 

[bonifacio]

I'm running the 6112/5160. Came from 5100's all around. Settled for the offset top settings. Driver side one higher for lean.
For the rear, I went with a 1.5" AAL. Keep the overload leaf in. They say remove it, but that's just a recommendation. I emailed Icon and asked. They said some report it's a rougher ride. This is pretty level at the top settings.

Grab the 650 springs if you're going to add a bumper or even a winch.

Just a couple small things. For the relocation drop kits, I cheaped out. Instead of branded stuff, I went on eBay and source out machine shops that used quality steels. Saved a little bit there. Not a lot, but it's not like a branded one will do anything better.
Carrier bearing kit wouldn't be a bad idea. Might not be needed, but it's simple and doesn't hurt.
Sway bar relocation kit just to be safe. Sway bar could be removed all together. Do some research on that.
Possibly a differential drop relocation kit if it's needed. Most don't.

Maybe pinch weld hammering. This is worth doing just because. Free. Heat and wrap that hammer.
CMC depending on how big of tires you want to run. $25-35 + welding. Only need if you go less offset, wider.
Eventually ECGS Bushing later on. This is preventative. Needle bearing might be fine. Could eventually fail. Failure could lead to more in labor in parts.

I'd also just grab a set of these: https://www.bracestraps.com/tacoma.html
Factory ones are thin and boring. Also because shameless plug.

 

[TRD_dee151]

I'm running the 6112/5160. Came from 5100's all around. Settled for the offset top settings. Driver side one higher for lean.
For the rear, I went with a 1.5" AAL. Keep the overload leaf in. They say remove it, but that's just a recommendation. I emailed Icon and asked. They said some report it's a rougher ride. This is pretty level at the top settings.

Grab the 650 springs if you're going to add a bumper or even a winch.

Just a couple small things. For the relocation drop kits, I cheaped out. Instead of branded stuff, I went on eBay and source out machine shops that used quality steels. Saved a little bit there. Not a lot, but it's not like a branded one will do anything better.
Carrier bearing kit wouldn't be a bad idea. Might not be needed, but it's simple and doesn't hurt.
Sway bar relocation kit just to be safe. Sway bar could be removed all together. Do some research on that.
Possibly a differential drop relocation kit if it's needed. Most don't.

Maybe pinch weld hammering. This is worth doing just because. Free. Heat and wrap that hammer.
CMC depending on how big of tires you want to run. $25-35 + welding. Only need if you go less offset, wider.
Eventually ECGS Bushing later on. This is preventative. Needle bearing might be fine. Could eventually fail. Failure could lead to more in labor in parts.

I'd also just grab a set of these: https://www.bracestraps.com/tacoma.html
Factory ones are thin and boring. Also because shameless plug.

Thanks for the 411, like your Taco looks Good