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High Output Alternator

2020Pro

2️⃣ Bronze
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Has anyone used the 270 amp alternator from DC Power Engineering ( SDHQ Link )? Before everyone freaks out, yes I realize it is expensive. I also know that my truck comes factory with a 130 Amp alternator. I am building a camping rig with a few house batteries in a pop top shell and think the extra charging power would be great. Looking to see if anyone has installed this alternator? How was the fitment? And how is it holding up ?

Thanks in Advance
 
Nope, I don't think any Guinea pigs here yet but I'm very interested in it and would appreciate it if you went ahead and bought one and let us know :giggle:
 
I bought this alternator for the exact reason you mentioned. I have a bank of LiFePO4 batteries in my rig that I wanted to charge while going down the road.

It is a very nice looking alt, no doubt. The problem is, when you try to tighten it up, the positive post touches the frame. That's a no-go, so I backed out of the install and have to call DC Monday to see what they say.

I have 3 Victon Orion-Tr Smart DC/DC Isolated chargers that am running in parallel for 90A charging into my 400AH bank. I will have 1200AH by the time I get done adding batteries, so if this doesn't work, I don't know of another alternator that I can draw 90A off of continually at idle.
 
Well, they said to just reclock it so the stud is elsewhere. OK. Makes sense. Now I am trying to remove the old one myself, and am having a bear of a time getting it out. I bought the Haynes manual, and it is little to no help whatsoever. The whole section on removing and reinstalling the alternator is a whopping 4 column inches of text (3 columns width page) that is packed with insightful information like "remove the two alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator". The black and white 3 X 3 1/2 inch square photos only show the easy/obvious steps, so aren't much help. Don't waste your money on this manual for this job.

Wow, way to phone it in guys.

I can't find a single Youtube video on a 3rd gen alternator replacement, and a Google search for a write up didn't return anything for 2016 or newer either. I am getting really frustrated with this, but I will figure it out somehow. Something is hung up behind the alternator after I remove the two mounting bolts and wiring, somehow. But, you can't see in there from any angle to see what it is. Is there another bolt I am missing? It feels like it, but I can't see that side of the alt.
 
Well, they said to just reclock it so the stud is elsewhere. OK. Makes sense. Now I am trying to remove the old one myself, and am having a bear of a time getting it out. I bought the Haynes manual, and it is little to no help whatsoever. The whole section on removing and reinstalling the alternator is a whopping 4 column inches of text (3 columns width page) that is packed with insightful information like "remove the two alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator". The black and white 3 X 3 1/2 inch square photos only show the easy/obvious steps, so aren't much help. Don't waste your money on this manual for this job.

Wow, way to phone it in guys.

I can't find a single Youtube video on a 3rd gen alternator replacement, and a Google search for a write up didn't return anything for 2016 or newer either. I am getting really frustrated with this, but I will figure it out somehow. Something is hung up behind the alternator after I remove the two mounting bolts and wiring, somehow. But, you can't see in there from any angle to see what it is. Is there another bolt I am missing? It feels like it, but I can't see that side of the alt.
good luck with that, let us know
 
If you get OVTune you can change the parameter to push more voltage out of the alternator. FYI.
 
how much more voltage?? and for how long? the alternator charges with more voltage on cold start, but as the truck warms up, the voltage drops. can you change the voltage out of the alternator for the whole time the truck is running?
 
Well, they said to just reclock it so the stud is elsewhere. OK. Makes sense. Now I am trying to remove the old one myself, and am having a bear of a time getting it out. I bought the Haynes manual, and it is little to no help whatsoever. The whole section on removing and reinstalling the alternator is a whopping 4 column inches of text (3 columns width page) that is packed with insightful information like "remove the two alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator". The black and white 3 X 3 1/2 inch square photos only show the easy/obvious steps, so aren't much help. Don't waste your money on this manual for this job.

Wow, way to phone it in guys.

I can't find a single Youtube video on a 3rd gen alternator replacement, and a Google search for a write up didn't return anything for 2016 or newer either. I am getting really frustrated with this, but I will figure it out somehow. Something is hung up behind the alternator after I remove the two mounting bolts and wiring, somehow. But, you can't see in there from any angle to see what it is. Is there another bolt I am missing? It feels like it, but I can't see that side of the alt.
Did you figure out how to detach the lower, rear bolt? I'm having the same struggle.
 
how much more voltage?? and for how long? the alternator charges with more voltage on cold start, but as the truck warms up, the voltage drops. can you change the voltage out of the alternator for the whole time the truck is running?
Yes with OVtune you can change the alternator output while the truck is running, this is helpful for those of us that have AGM style batteries and Lithium that need 14.5V+ to fully charge
 
I would not change the alternator on the 3rd gen unless it’s bad.
It’s cheaper to find someone to flash 2.0 OV Tune and do the alternator tuning.
IMO. 2 cents.
 
not to hijack this thread, but I have an OVTune question. Are there maps to change shift points on the Tacoma that has 4.88 gears on 33's? My shift points are all wonky. Anyone on here making custom maps for OVTune?
 
not to hijack this thread, but I have an OVTune question. Are there maps to change shift points on the Tacoma that has 4.88 gears on 33's? My shift points are all wonky. Anyone on here making custom maps for OVTune?
I can help you out. I’ll shoot you a PM
 
Holy High prices batman! but it does look sweet. Ill wait till I do a dual battery setup to see if this may be a future purchase.
 
If our alternator goes out and we replace it, the alternator needs to be tuned?
haha technically speaking no...

Ovtune allows us to change/remap the ECU to "allow" the alternator to charge the house battery from 13.6-8V to 14.6-8V so that we can properly charge AGM/lithium batteries. The ovtune really will only affect your house battery, if you run a DC-DC charger like a REDARC bcdc1225 then that system automatically ramps up the charge to match whatever your auxiliary batteries are on the vehicle.
 
not to hijack this thread, but I have an OVTune question. Are there maps to change shift points on the Tacoma that has 4.88 gears on 33's? My shift points are all wonky. Anyone on here making custom maps for OVTune?
Yes, it changes how the truck chooses gears and they have tunes for various gear ratios and tire size. Also changes the power band. Makes the truck much more driveable.
 
I going to ask a dum question here, if the alternator is control by the vehicle computer and you need to tune the computer to increase the output, how will a new alternator by pass that? Would the computer still not control the output?
Also, if possible, would a smaller pulley do the same thing?

I am asking because I am installing a 31M X2 battery, but I don’t know of any tuner within 500 miles of me in Southwest Colorado
 
I going to ask a dum question here, if the alternator is control by the vehicle computer and you need to tune the computer to increase the output, how will a new alternator by pass that? Would the computer still not control the output?
Also, if possible, would a smaller pulley do the same thing?

I am asking because I am installing a 31M X2 battery, but I don’t know of any tuner within 500 miles of me in Southwest Colorado
I actually was sitting back thinking the same thing. So you’d need to tune for voltage either way. Independent of the higher amperage. I could be wrong
 
Did you guys figure it out? I replaced my idle pulleys today and belt. Pulleys had a ton of play and it had loud squeaking. Well as I sat there I spun my alternator and that’s what the squeak is. Figured I know lol. It’s way bad. Cleaned it and still on its way out. I have the tune for agm battery, dual battery setup etc already. So instead of buying an oem alternator I might as well just get the DC power one.

You guys get them in?
 
Has anyone used the 270 amp alternator from DC Power Engineering ( SDHQ Link )? Before everyone freaks out, yes I realize it is expensive. I also know that my truck comes factory with a 130 Amp alternator. I am building a camping rig with a few house batteries in a pop top shell and think the extra charging power would be great. Looking to see if anyone has installed this alternator? How was the fitment? And how is it holding up ?

Thanks in Advance
I am working on it at this moment. There is a bolt that goes through a bracket at the bottom on the inside of the old alternator. There doesn't seem to be a place for that bracket or bolt on the new 270 amp alternator. The head of that bolt is 12mm. I have not yet fit a socket over that bolt head yet to loosen it. Today is day 1 in my attempt at swapping them out.
 
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good luck with that, let us know
Yes, there is 3 bolts that hold the alternator. Two in the front; and one in the back bottom. The two front bolts are 14mm, and the ones on the back bottom are 12mm heads. There is zilch online for resources on it. The guide I have tells me to remove the bolt, but doesn't describe the bolt.
 
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Did you figure out how to detach the lower, rear bolt? I'm having the same struggle.

To get that bolt out: Put a 12mm socket on a short 3/8" extension without the ratchet. Reach down with the socket and extension in your right hand. Feel for the LIN wire that is attached to the bracket that you will be removing the bolt to. You're going to cradle the extension in your hand so that the socket faces the front of the Tacoma. Gently put it right behind that wire. You should feel the socket fit nicely onto the 12mm bolt head (that goes through the bracket and into the alternator). Now, leave the socket and extension. Use a 3/8" drive stubby ratchet, since there is little room for anything else. Attach that ratchet to the back of the extension. You will have some difficulty doing this, but eventually you'll get it. The bolt is so tight you cannot push the ratchet down and loosen the bolt. You leave the ratchet handle there, and put a 1 inch piece of pipe, 18" long, on the end of the ratchet (standing straight up). You hit the pipe with a 2 lb hammer, the pipe drives the ratchet handle down; and now the bolt will be loosened.
 
Did you figure out how to detach the lower, rear bolt? I'm having the same struggle.
To remove the bolt that goes forward into the back of the alternator (that goes through the small bracket). This is what you need.
1. Step stool
2. 3/8" stubby ratchet
3. 3/8" short extension
4. 3/8" drive 12mm socket (the head of the bolt is 12mm), 10mm socket
5. 18 inch long piece of 1 inch pipe.
6. Hammer
7. Extendable magnet retriever (for when you drop parts and tools down there and they don't go to the floor)
Recipe: Get up on that step stool and remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the vertical bracket, that will get in your way for reaching down behind the alternator. Remove the bolts and the bracket from the scene, but don't lose them. Don't be tempted to thread the bolts a little back into their holes; it's too tight for that and your arm will be going right through there.
Get back up on the step stool and make sure you have your ratchet, 12mm socket and short extension nearby, but not in your hands just yet. Lean over and put your left elbow onto the ridge in front of the radiator to steady and support yourself. Reach down with your right hand behind the alternator. Feel for the LIN plug wire that's attached to the small bracket behind the alternator. That wire goes up and down and it is covered in hard tape. To the left of that wire underneath is a flat ridge. Feel underneath that ridge for the two bolts that hold that bracket, that hold the alternator, and give an attachment point for that wire. Feel them? Make sure you know where they are before going back down there with tools. Feel it a few times, because this will build your memory of knowing right where it is for making it work the very first time.
Put the socket on the end of the extension, but don't be tempted to put it on the ratchet. First, fit the socket over the bolt head with only the extension attached to the socket. You will fish it in behind the wire, from right of the wire below the ridge. Now, leave it hanging and get your ratchet. Make sure it's in loosening mode. Gently reach down and push the ratchet onto the extension. Ratchet it so that the handle is pointing upward a bit. You won't be able to push it down and loosen the bolt, because it is just too tight and your palm is just too damn soft and you don't weigh enough. Take the 18 inch pipe and put the end of it on the end of your ratchet handle (handle is barely in the hole of the pipe), so now the pipe is sticking straight up 18 inches. Hit the end of the pipe with your hammer and it will loosen that bolt enough so that you can ratchet it the rest of the way out. Good luck, and get used to dropping tools and scratching up your hand and arm.
 
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I replaced the stock alternator on my 2017 Tacoma SR5 that has the tow package.
I replaced the stock alt with a custom built 320 amp alternator from
(excessive amperage) (High Output Alternators | Excessive Amperage (https://www.excessiveamperage.com/))
(I contacted them on Instagram because they have a lot of pictures & videos posts about their alternators, I ended up getting in contact with Nathan the owner of excessive Amperage the guy was super helpful and answered all my questions)
I paid ($525) with free shipping and also a free paint coat (Red).
The alternator took 2 weeks to come in and bolted on exactly the same as the stock alternator as well as used the same wire harness plug and ran at the stock voltage, (Which later I changed). The alternator has a smaller pulley so I had to replace the serpentine belt for one the was a half inch smaller. Everything was pretty easy besides removing/ installing the back bold of the alternator. Initially I had concerns that the new alt would cause a check engine light but thankfully it did not, everything went well.

After about 2 weeks of using the alternator everything was good but i realized that i wanted to run at a higher voltage then the factory 12V. I ended up contacting Nathan and asked him about higher voltage options and he told me that if I sent the alternator back in he could install an internal voltage regulator that would bypass the stock voltage of 12V and allow 14V though I would no longer use the factory plug harness and would have to find A 12V ignition source.
He said he would do this upgrade free of charge if I paid for the shipping fees there & back. I agreed after asking many questions haha, I had many questions about if it affect the computer and or battery / other electrical components and if it would cause a check engine light. He said everything would be fine except there was a chance that the check engine light would turn on but that everything else would run fine as long as voltage stayed under 15.2V. I decided to take my chances & go through with it.

About a week and a couple days later I received the alternator with the new upgrade. I ended up getting a 12V ignition source from within the fuse box next to the battery. I got everything installed and surprisingly everything worked great and there was still no check engine light on!..😅

The alternator gives out 14.4V at high RPM and 13.8V at idle. I get about 220 amps at idle and up to 340 amps with a heavy electrical load. This was all done in September of 2020 the alternator is still running great haven’t had any problems with anything electrical nor things like headlights getting to hot(have read about stuff like that) I don’t hear any squeaking from the alternator and I am still using the same battery I was using before the alt upgrade, which is a Optima DH6. The only thing I would say I do notice is that the headlights get slightly brighter when I accelerate and drop back down to normal brightness at idle but so far I don’t have any problems with anything.

Prior to these upgrades I did do a (big 3 upgrade) which is an electrical wire upgrade for the engine/alternator/battery. I did not replace any wires I only added 0 gauge wire for the grounds and positive.

The serpentine belt I used to accommodate the new smaller pulley is
K070830 Premium OE Micro-V Belt.
 

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I replaced the stock alternator on my 2017 Tacoma SR5 that has the tow package.
I replaced the stock alt with a custom built 320 amp alternator from
(excessive amperage) (High Output Alternators | Excessive Amperage (https://www.excessiveamperage.com/))
(I contacted them on Instagram because they have a lot of pictures & videos posts about their alternators, I ended up getting in contact with Nathan the owner of excessive Amperage the guy was super helpful and answered all my questions)
I paid ($525) with free shipping and also a free paint coat (Red).
The alternator took 2 weeks to come in and bolted on exactly the same as the stock alternator as well as used the same wire harness plug and ran at the stock voltage, (Which later I changed). The alternator has a smaller pulley so I had to replace the serpentine belt for one the was a half inch smaller. Everything was pretty easy besides removing/ installing the back bold of the alternator. Initially I had concerns that the new alt would cause a check engine light but thankfully it did not, everything went well.

After about 2 weeks of using the alternator everything was good but i realized that i wanted to run at a higher voltage then the factory 12V. I ended up contacting Nathan and asked him about higher voltage options and he told me that if I sent the alternator back in he could install an internal voltage regulator that would bypass the stock voltage of 12V and allow 14V though I would no longer use the factory plug harness and would have to find A 12V ignition source.
He said he would do this upgrade free of charge if I paid for the shipping fees there & back. I agreed after asking many questions haha, I had many questions about if it affect the computer and or battery / other electrical components and if it would cause a check engine light. He said everything would be fine except there was a chance that the check engine light would turn on but that everything else would run fine as long as voltage stayed under 15.2V. I decided to take my chances & go through with it.

About a week and a couple days later I received the alternator with the new upgrade. I ended up getting a 12V ignition source from within the fuse box next to the battery. I got everything installed and surprisingly everything worked great and there was still no check engine light on!..😅

The alternator gives out 14.4V at high RPM and 13.8V at idle. I get about 220 amps at idle and up to 340 amps with a heavy electrical load. This was all done in September of 2020 the alternator is still running great haven’t had any problems with anything electrical nor things like headlights getting to hot(have read about stuff like that) I don’t hear any squeaking from the alternator and I am still using the same battery I was using before the alt upgrade, which is a Optima DH6. The only thing I would say I do notice is that the headlights get slightly brighter when I accelerate and drop back down to normal brightness at idle but so far I don’t have any problems with anything.

Prior to these upgrades I did do a (big 3 upgrade) which is an electrical wire upgrade for the engine/alternator/battery. I did not replace any wires I only added 0 gauge wire for the grounds and positive.

The serpentine belt I used to accommodate the new smaller pulley is
K070830 Premium OE Micro-V Belt.
Congratulations! What did you do to the 140 amp Alt fuse? (perhaps did you simply fuse the second line from the battery to the alternator output?)
 
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To remove the bolt that goes forward into the back of the alternator (that goes through the small bracket). This is what you need.
1. Step stool
2. 3/8" stubby ratchet
3. 3/8" short extension
4. 3/8" drive 12mm socket (the head of the bolt is 12mm), 10mm socket
5. 18 inch long piece of 1 inch pipe.
6. Hammer
7. Extendable magnet retriever (for when you drop parts and tools down there and they don't go to the floor)
Recipe: Get up on that step stool and remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the vertical bracket, that will get in your way for reaching down behind the alternator. Remove the bolts and the bracket from the scene, but don't lose them. Don't be tempted to thread the bolts a little back into their holes; it's too tight for that and your arm will be going right through there.
Get back up on the step stool and make sure you have your ratchet, 12mm socket and short extension nearby, but not in your hands just yet. Lean over and put your left elbow onto the ridge in front of the radiator to steady and support yourself. Reach down with your right hand behind the alternator. Feel for the LIN plug wire that's attached to the small bracket behind the alternator. That wire goes up and down and it is covered in hard tape. To the left of that wire underneath is a flat ridge. Feel underneath that ridge for the two bolts that hold that bracket, that hold the alternator, and give an attachment point for that wire. Feel them? Make sure you know where they are before going back down there with tools. Feel it a few times, because this will build your memory of knowing right where it is for making it work the very first time.
Put the socket on the end of the extension, but don't be tempted to put it on the ratchet. First, fit the socket over the bolt head with only the extension attached to the socket. You will fish it in behind the wire, from right of the wire below the ridge. Now, leave it hanging and get your ratchet. Make sure it's in loosening mode. Gently reach down and push the ratchet onto the extension. Ratchet it so that the handle is pointing upward a bit. You won't be able to push it down and loosen the bolt, because it is just too tight and your palm is just too damn soft and you don't weigh enough. Take the 18 inch pipe and put the end of it on the end of your ratchet handle (handle is barely in the hole of the pipe), so now the pipe is sticking straight up 18 inches. Hit the end of the pipe with your hammer and it will loosen that bolt enough so that you can ratchet it the rest of the way out. Good luck, and get used to dropping tools and scratching up your hand and arm.
Alternator replacement on a 2016 V6.
After trying the above method without success, and many other tries, I found an alternate route to remove the 3rd (back) bolt on the alternator. Note, not for someone with ham fists. I hope this helps.
1. I put the truck on jackstands and removed the left front tire.
2. remove the 2 rubber splash shields, ahead of and behind the spring perch, by removing the plastic push pins.
3. remove the heat shield over the wiring harness by removing 3 bolts (10mm socket). Access to this through the wheel well, behind the spring perch.
4. Using a 12mm socket and 2 3" extensions on a swivel head ratchet, insert the tools from behind the spring perch, with socket aiming forward. You can look through in front of the spring perch and just barely see the bolt your aiming for. Carefully get the socket on the bolt head. You may need to put a bar on the ratchet for leverage since there's not much room for your hand in the opening.

This is the heatshield you need to remove. The ratchet, extensions and 12mm socket used to get to the alternator bolt.
heatshield and tools.jpg



The left front wheel well with the splash shields removed. Tool will go in on the right of the spring. Look through on the left using a light to see the bolt.
left front wheel well.jpg



You can see the ratchet in place (the socket is on the bolt at this point). As I mentioned, not a lot of room to get your hand on the ratchet, so a bar makes it easier. You will only be able to move the ratchet a click or 2 at a time. Once it was loose, i was able to reach in and turn the extensions by hand until the bolt was out.
ratchet in place for alternator rear bolt.jpg
 
Alternator replacement on a 2016 V6.
After trying the above method without success, and many other tries, I found an alternate route to remove the 3rd (back) bolt on the alternator. Note, not for someone with ham fists. I hope this helps.
1. I put the truck on jackstands and removed the left front tire.
2. remove the 2 rubber splash shields, ahead of and behind the spring perch, by removing the plastic push pins.
3. remove the heat shield over the wiring harness by removing 3 bolts (10mm socket). Access to this through the wheel well, behind the spring perch.
4. Using a 12mm socket and 2 3" extensions on a swivel head ratchet, insert the tools from behind the spring perch, with socket aiming forward. You can look through in front of the spring perch and just barely see the bolt your aiming for. Carefully get the socket on the bolt head. You may need to put a bar on the ratchet for leverage since there's not much room for your hand in the opening.

This is the heatshield you need to remove. The ratchet, extensions and 12mm socket used to get to the alternator bolt.
heatshield and tools.jpg



The left front wheel well with the splash shields removed. Tool will go in on the right of the spring. Look through on the left using a light to see the bolt.
left front wheel well.jpg



You can see the ratchet in place (the socket is on the bolt at this point). As I mentioned, not a lot of room to get your hand on the ratchet, so a bar makes it easier. You will only be able to move the ratchet a click or 2 at a time. Once it was loose, i was able to reach in and turn the extensions by hand until the bolt was out.
ratchet in place for alternator rear bolt.jpg
wow! I wanted to replace the alternator, but discovered the upgraded DC Power Engineering replacement was not a direct replacement. It's missing the bolt holes for the wire case, and the LIN plug faces outward, requiring me to remove the wire from the bracket to get it to reach around to the outside. It would not give me 14.4 vdc either without taking a tune. I feel like that tune is risky. I sent the DC Power Engineering alternator back for a refund minus restocking fee. I hope someone makes a direct replacement alternator that actually fits our 3rd gen Tacoma, and has a decent warranty. It is so difficult to replace, that I'd demand something like "double your money back guarantee for 5 years", instead of the pewny warranty they have.
 
Congratulations! What did you do to the 140 amp Alt fuse? (perhaps did you simply fuse the second line from the battery to the alternator output?)
Congratulations on your successful replacement/upgrade of your alternator. I do not like the idea of not using a stock belt, but you probably know what you're doing better than I do, and obviously feel confident in the belt you now use. That 140 Amp alt fuse is a real thing, brother. The only solution is to bypass it with the big 3 and also keep it in place, and also put the appropriate size fuse in the line that bypasses the 140amp fuse. You may add those fuse values together in order to achieve an appropriate level of protection (they are not resistors or capacitors, so it doesn't add the same way; they are the just weakest places in the conductors).
I abandoned the conquest of changing out the alternator for now, because I saw too many issues with the DC Power Engineering alternator (Lin plug facing outward instead of toward the rear, missing alternator mount bolt, missing bolt holes out on the outside of it for the plastic wire case, way too short of a warranty for the level of difficulty it is to replace it; it doesn't match the high price tag for it). I sent it back for refund minus restocking fee. It was never mounted. Again, congratulations. I hope it is still working nicely for you. Please post pictures of your work. I'll love to see how you did it. -Ray
 
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