• Welcome to Tacoma3G.com, a free resource for 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma owners!

    This website is the passion-project of a USMC veteran/mechanic, @Tyler. I created Tacoma3G.com to share my knowledge of this subject with others and to provide like-minded folks with a comfortable space to ask questions and create 'build threads' within our Tacoma Forums. Now, if the format of this website is confusing to navigate for you, or if you're interested in my full mission and T3G's history, check out the Help and About pages.

Custom on-board water idea

nickyreno

7️⃣ Connoisseur
Rig of the Month
Tacoma3G Supporter
Joined
Mar 14, 2020
Messages
1,051
Reaction score
1,716
Age
35
Location
Reno/Tahoe
2020 Pro DCSB Auto
Magnetic Gray
So I've been kicking this idea upstream for a while and wanted to know what you guys think, and if anyone has any ideas.

I was initially going to get a Roadshower from Yakima and the WaterPort Weekender but the price for what you get is not ideal, especially on the Roadshower. I'd also prefer to free up as much roof space as I can since it's getting a little crowded up there! I really want to have at least 7 gallons of pressurized and heated water that doesn't have to rely on thermal heat. So here's my idea:

Snow Performance makes an in-bed water-meth injection tank that has a 10 gallon capacity. According to my hasty measurements, this should install under the bed rails and fit both long and short bed Tacoma's. This tank is likely not BPA free but I don't think it even matters since I'm not going to be drinking this water - just showering and cleaning a dish or two. Utilizing the port at the bottom of the tank, I'd retrofit a hose and wand.

To pressurize, I was thinking about installing a schrader valve on the top of the tank. That way it can be pressurized by a hand-pump or an on-board air system. That, or retrofit a pump cap from Rinsekit or Waterport.

Then to heat: Rinsekit makes an immersion heater for their system I was thinking about retrofitting. The Rinsekit system is also 17" tall so I'm confident it will fit the Snow Performance tank. It's powered by a cigarette lighter so I would have to use an adapter to power from the 110V plug in the bed. Ideally I'd have it hardwired to the 12V with a switch for a clean install. The heater element itself would be installed either at the bottom of the tank - facing up, or the tailgate side of the tank facing the cab, or in front of the fill cap pointing down. the The only reason I was thinking about using Rinsekit's immersion heater is because it's plug-and-play, there is likely a better and cheaper solution that can be hardwired or plugged into a 12V outlet. I just don't know what I'm looking for, what is overkill, easily retrofitted, etc. Questions here are wether or not the tank is going to be able to handle the heater and if the Rinsekit immersion heater is going to be efficient enough to bring 10 gallons of water to a comfortable temperature in a reasonable amount of time. They advertise 11-13 degrees every 30 minutes for 2 gal.

So what do ya'll think? Should I give it a shot or just settle for the turn-key Waterport Weekender and tough it out with no temp. controlled showers?

Yakima Roadshower: $550
  • 10 gal. won't fit on Tacoma without full height rack
  • 7 gal. stil $440
  • Rely's on sun to heat
  • Need rack space to optimize sunlight
  • Not in stock anywhere
Waterport Weekender: $380
  • Only 8 gal.
  • No heat/rely's on sun
  • Need rack space to optimize sunlight
My Idea: $230 (maybe less w/ different heater)
  • 10 gal.
  • Heated water
  • Pressurized
  • Mounted
  • Does not need rack space for direct sunlight

96665848_10158298181512661_7763726649689899008_o.jpg


sno-40015_2_l-jpg.25525.jpg


Rinsekit's immersion heater

rk_heater_02_720x-png.25528.png
 
Looks like a solid idea for sure. I don’t have any helpful input but will be watching to see how it turns out.
 
Youll be using a pump or a compressor?
 
Youll be using a pump or a compressor?

For pressurizing? I'll fit a schrader valve onto the tank and pressurize with on-board air or a manual pump.
 
Noice, Excited to see how it comes out and copy you lol
 
I think it is a neat idea and I'd like to see you try it. Given that the Rinsekit is only 2 gallons is their heater going to be able to heat 10 gallons without taking all day?
 
I think I’m going to tackle this little project in January. I’ve got Victory 4x4 bedside MOLLE panels on the way which I will mount the snow performance tank onto.

Gives me time to research a little to see if I can’t find a cheaper and more efficient immersion heater too.
 
I'm interested in this so I did a little research. From the Rinsekit website:

The Hot Rod Water heater will raise the temperature of 2 gallons of water by approximately 11 to 13 degrees Fahrenheit every 30 minutes. It can be set in 30 minute intervals for a maximum of 90 minutes at a time but can be reset any number of times to reach the temperature you desire. When heating up your shower, keep in mind that 120 degrees Fahrenheit has been recognized by the industry as the maximum safe hot water temperature for showers.
So, if you have ambient water temperature of 65 degrees and you want to raise it to 110 degrees for a shower that will take about 4 hours. And that is just for 2 gallons. I don't think their heater is ever going to get a 10 gallon tank up to a comfortable temperature.

Taking 10 gallons of water from 65 to 110 in 1 hours requires 1,100 Wh or 3,755 BTU. The numbers just don't work well for a 12V power source. That's why RV water heaters use propane or shore power. The shape of that tank is still interesting since it uses space efficiently but an electric heater probably isn't realistic.
 
Think this will work? This immersion heater is 1600 watts at 110V: Weldless Stainless Steel Heating Element | MoreBeer

Based on my calculations, this heater element should bring 10 gallons of room temp water to 105 degrees in about 35 minutes.

It’s 11.5” long as well, so it would fit at the bottom of the tank nicely. And it’s only $30!
 
Well, no, I don't think so. Take this with a grain of salt since I'm no expert, but that is a 110V heater 1600W or 2200W. Your bed outlet can push 400W max. Look at the numbers above. You need over 1,000 Wh. Even assuming the Toyota outlet can push 400W (with the car running, btw) and you can find a heating element that draws 400W that is still 2.5 hours to heat 10 gallons. And as long as the car is running you are much better off to use engine heat through a heat exchanger. Lots of folks have done just that. The only efficient way to heat water is with fire in some form or another.
 
Cant run 1600W anything off the stock AC port in the bed, max is 400W.

Its a neat idea and im totally onboard! Finding an effecient heating element is gonna be the hard part, most likely you will need to get a propane style heater to efficiently heat the water in a reasonable amount of time. Anything electric will take hours due to the low wattage.
 
I’ve been wanting to put a water tank where the stock spare went
 
Well, no, I don't think so. Take this with a grain of salt since I'm no expert, but that is a 110V heater 1600W or 2200W. Your bed outlet can push 400W max. Look at the numbers above. You need over 1,000 Wh. Even assuming the Toyota outlet can push 400W (with the car running, btw) and you can find a heating element that draws 400W that is still 2.5 hours to heat 10 gallons. And as long as the car is running you are much better off to use engine heat through a heat exchanger. Lots of folks have done just that. The only efficient way to heat water is with fire in some form or another.

Think I’d be able to use a power station like the Yeti 1500x? Whilst charging it from solar and the bed?
 
No, sorry, the current requirements are just too high for any kind of electric heater.
 
Think I’d be able to use a power station like the Yeti 1500x? Whilst charging it from solar and the bed?
If you can provide 1500W from a power source then you should be able to use that heater! Only downfall is the Yeti 1500x blows the budget idea out of the water... (pun intended ;).

Heres another solution that could potentially work for you, just throwing out some ideas:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716WT8D5/?tag=tacoma3g-20

If you pair this with a dual battery setup itll be a lot more functional than just providing 1500-2000W AC, you'll have a second battery to power your fridge, lights, gear, etc. But adding a dual battery can be up to $800 depending on what you install.
 
Pump water through copper pipe wrapped around a section of exhaust and back. Temp sensor shuts the pump off at desired temperature.

Don't like that idea? My next idea requires a magnifying lens...
 
If you can provide 1500W from a power source then you should be able to use that heater! Only downfall is the Yeti 1500x blows the budget idea out of the water... (pun intended ;).

Heres another solution that could potentially work for you, just throwing out some ideas:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716WT8D5/?tag=tacoma3g-20

If you pair this with a dual battery setup itll be a lot more functional than just providing 1500-2000W AC, you'll have a second battery to power your fridge, lights, gear, etc. But adding a dual battery can be up to $800 depending on what you install.

I was always planning on doing a solar setup with a power station, just not the bazillion dollar one, and only to support a Dometic. For that price I’d rather just have cold water. I am however planning on doing the Genesis dual battery setup. But you’re right, that all really kills the idea of having a cheaper alternative. But I still think my idea beats anything else out there even without heat.

Pump water through copper pipe wrapped around a section of exhaust and back. Temp sensor shuts the pump off at desired temperature.

Don't like that idea? My next idea requires a magnifying lens...

I had an idea involving a combination of the Olympic Torch and naked body heat but the ‘Rona nipped that one in the bud.
 
If you can provide 1500W from a power source then you should be able to use that heater! Only downfall is the Yeti 1500x blows the budget idea out of the water... (pun intended ;).

Heres another solution that could potentially work for you, just throwing out some ideas:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716WT8D5/?tag=tacoma3g-20

If you pair this with a dual battery setup itll be a lot more functional than just providing 1500-2000W AC, you'll have a second battery to power your fridge, lights, gear, etc. But adding a dual battery can be up to $800 depending on what you install.
You will drain the Yeti way faster than it can be recharged by solar. Perhaps even faster than a running car can keep up with. The inverter will also require that the car is running which mean huge energy losses. If you have to run the car then a heat exchanger is the only efficient way to heat water.
 
You will drain the Yeti way faster than it can be recharged by solar. Perhaps even faster than a running car can keep up with. The inverter will also require that the car is running which mean huge energy losses. If you have to run the car then a heat exchanger is the only efficient way to heat water.
Goal zero claims the Yeti 1500x can deliver 1500 wh for 1 hour. And charges from 400w in 4-8 hours. I would need 30 min, and theoretically be able to charge it back up from 50% using solar in about 2-4 hours. I think.
 
Taking 10 gallons of water from 65 to 105 degrees with 1500 watts takes about 45 minutes. Where does the 50% come from? I think the Yeti will be drained and the 4-8 hours to recharge is going to be closer to the 8 than the 4. Direct sunlight at the perfect angle is never achievable in the real world. The Yeti 1500x lists for $2,000 and the 400w of solar panels is $1,200. Or you can buy a $150 propane heater which is smaller and faster.
 
Nitrous bottle warmers come to mind. Not sure how hot it'll let you get the water but some of them can get pretty hot and they're meant to work in car electrical systems so 12v. May be an option?
 
So have you decided what to do yet? Ive been thinking about this as well and I have an idea of what I am going to do however, I still havent solved the hot water part yet. Honestly, hot water isnt really that important to me since when I am camping, its usually hot as hell anyway and the ambient temperature would would work for me anyway.
 
So have you decided what to do yet? Ive been thinking about this as well and I have an idea of what I am going to do however, I still havent solved the hot water part yet. Honestly, hot water isnt really that important to me since when I am camping, its usually hot as hell anyway and the ambient temperature would would work for me anyway.

Haven’t given it much thought after the post actually. I still think there’s a good aftermarket electric heating solution out there - although maybe not capable of bringing water to 95-105 F, but warm enough to comfortably bathe.
 
honestly, i bet if you just painted whatever you use to store the water black, it would get warm enough from the sun. I had a solar shower that sat in the sun and multiple times the water was almost too hot to shower in.
 
this seems to be a reinventing the wheel kind of scenario. I get wanting to do a DIY thing but there are plenty of hot water devices on the market that are cheap to buy and are efficient as well.
 
Back
Top