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Reference Ask a beginner question, get a serious answer!

That happens, yes. You need to buy more wiring and splice it into the existing wiring. Then mount the camera to the bumper in a spot that allows to to see behind the truck. Sometimes these bumpers will come with a little mount you can use. You need to drill into the bumper (there isn’t a set spot - you pick where you want it).
 
Why cant you fit a non-DRL headlight on a DRL truck? Are the mountings different or something?
 
I just brought home a 2020 TRD Pro. Will my maintenance screens populate themselves? Brakes, tranny, etc. Will my truck tell me when it needs an oil change or do I just have to remember at 10k
 

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I just brought home a 2020 TRD Pro. Will my maintenance screens populate themselves? Brakes, tranny, etc. Will my truck tell me when it needs an oil change or do I just have to remember at 10k
The truck should give you a little warning message that it’s time for service. At least at the beginning because I think the factory adds a few for you.

But for the information in that photo, besides what I said above, you need to manually put your info in. You will then continue to get service updates according to what you entered.
 
The truck should give you a little warning message that it’s time for service. At least at the beginning because I think the factory adds a few for you.

But for the information in that photo, besides what I said above, you need to manually put your info in. You will then continue to get service updates according to what you entered.
Thanks mine isn’t setup for the first oil change either. I’ll have to add that.
 
What is inside the shark fin antenna? Mine is badly damaged and a circuit board is exposed. The way I see it I should have an fm radio antenna, dab antenna and a gps receiver for the nav? Were all of these in that one aerial?
Only because I was thinking of replacing with a chinese carbon fiber fin.
 

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Hey guys! I'm new to this forum and the Tacoma world. Due to financial/time restraints I had to settle with getting a 2016 SR5 RWD, however I have a deep interest in overlanding. I understand that I can't be climbing boulders in this thing but are there any suggestions out there to make the experience any easier? Any mods I can do or specific tires y'all recommend that could help out? Thanks a bunch!
 
Looking for info on wiring and upgrading connections. I seen alot of the switch pros and other under the hood upgrades. What are the benefits? And how much more can I run, or do with the electrical upgrades?
 
Anyone know if the owner of this truck is on here? 3rd Gen Tacoma with a camo wrap. I spotted it on the road in Belmont/Mt Holly, NC and would love to see more pics of it.
Camo Tacoma.jpg
 
Looking for info on wiring and upgrading connections. I seen alot of the switch pros and other under the hood upgrades. What are the benefits? And how much more can I run, or do with the electrical upgrades?
blue sea fuse box is an amazing thing to have because it has a quick disconnect switch to all electrical components that go to it and easy diagnose if you pop a fuse. It's a lot cheaper then one of those switch pros and stuff but you do miss out on the neato switches. Ill try and find some pictures later off my build thread or other post ive made but i dont have the time at the moment to find those.
 
Quick question guys, just needing to make sure my thought process is valid.

I'm going to make cable harnesses for my 40" and 20" Baja Designs S8 light bars. I plan on running a #12 for the Primary and the Ground wire. Is it cool if I run a smaller gauge #14 for the backlight feature? I'm assuming the backlight feature is a smaller current draw, so I should be swell. The reason for this is I'm planning on running the wires from the roof rack down the channel of the windshield and I was test fitting (3) #12 wires and it didn't seem like it was going to go near the top. Maybe one smaller wire will give me a little more room to wiggle it around.

EDIT: Called Baja and spoke to someone there. He said backlighting amp draw very minimal so a smaller gauge wire shouldn't be a problem. He compared it to their S1s which are pretty small. So I'm going to run a #14 for the backlighting.
 
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blue sea fuse box is an amazing thing to have because it has a quick disconnect switch to all electrical components that go to it and easy diagnose if you pop a fuse. It's a lot cheaper then one of those switch pros and stuff but you do miss out on the neato switches. Ill try and find some pictures later off my build thread or other post ive made but i dont have the time at the moment to find those.

Thank you. As I am just learning about all the switches upgrades and new way of doing things. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
 
I've finally been able to start hitting the trails and after just a couple rounds, I've noticed that when I get in or out of my truck as well as when I get moving from a stop, my truck squeaks like crazy. Is this something I just have to get used to?
 
I've finally been able to start hitting the trails and after just a couple rounds, I've noticed that when I get in or out of my truck as well as when I get moving from a stop, my truck squeaks like crazy. Is this something I just have to get used to?
Can you narrow down where the squeak is coming from
 
I've finally been able to start hitting the trails and after just a couple rounds, I've noticed that when I get in or out of my truck as well as when I get moving from a stop, my truck squeaks like crazy. Is this something I just have to get used to?
It happens. Could be something as simple as dust/mud in your leaf pack which a good hit with a pressure washer will resolve. Do you have aftermarket suspension or control arms? If so, what kind and are they serviceable? Generally speaking, when I do any real off roading, I always pressure wash my suspension, then lube moving parts.
 
Can you narrow down where the squeak is coming from

It seems to be coming from the rear. Mostly driver side?

It happens. Could be something as simple as dust/mud in your leaf pack which a good hit with a pressure washer will resolve. Do you have aftermarket suspension or control arms? If so, what kind and are they serviceable? Generally speaking, when I do any real off roading, I always pressure wash my suspension, then lube moving parts.

I don't have any aftermarket yet, but am looking to replace it when I get lifted up here soon. Just wondering if I need to look at certain suspension to avoid this happening or if it is just a natural process.
Also, being a newbie, is there anything I should focus on when pressure washing? Or just run it through everything?
 
Can you fit a non drl headlight in a drl truck?

The wiring is. You can still do it, just not plug and play.

Maybe the mounting is different too?

Think I've come up with an idea. My truck has no headlights so I'm doing all this theory in my head.
Non Drl headlamps are so much cheaper than their drl brother so...
Why not put a switchback bulb in the turn signal socket and take the feed from the drl wire to power the white- basically making your front turn light the drl? This would work? Probably gonna look like a Ford Ranger haha. Am guessing I'll need a slightly different bulb connector with an extra wire.
Really like these black units with clear side markers but they dont come with drl.
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This is so much newbier than I ever planned on being, but can someone A) Give me the lowdown on what a “long travel” kit is and B) Help me with the differences between long travel and just a lift? I know the obvious differences, but specifically relating to ride quality and use is what I need help with...it’s my daily for a few years, but then it’s turning into an over landing rig. ELI5 please and thank you.
 
This is so much newbier than I ever planned on being, but can someone A) Give me the lowdown on what a “long travel” kit is and B) Help me with the differences between long travel and just a lift? I know the obvious differences, but specifically relating to ride quality and use is what I need help with...it’s my daily for a few years, but then it’s turning into an over landing rig. ELI5 please and thank you.
so a long travel is going to ultimately make your truck longer and in some circumstances longer wheelbase. You will be utilizing longer shocks granting more shock travel. For offroading a simple lift with coil overs and a new leaf pack will get the job done. Long travel can also come in various different sizes. you can do a mild set up that is only 2 inches plus and using only a coil. Or you can jump to a wider set up and do a coil with a helper shock and the rear is a completely different story.
You can get away with an under bed shock mount and relocation or you can do a bed cage setup allowing shocks 6-10" longer than factory.
So what i would do. Upgrade your suspension with coils, UCAs up front, new leafs and shocks in the rear with a shackle and hanger setup. and call it good. You can go for some aftermarket LCAs if you have the extra money, i would opt to have everything boxed and the total chaos tabs welded in for added support.
Long Travel though it looks so good. For a daily I don't see the need. if I were going to be romping through baja or the dunes no doubt, or traveling though moab every single day.
 
Has anyone tried powering “Raptor” style grille lights through the DRL’s with an add-a-fuse instead of running them through the low-beams with an add-a-fuse?
 
Has anyone tried powering “Raptor” style grille lights through the DRL’s with an add-a-fuse instead of running them through the low-beams with an add-a-fuse?
since the drl's dim when you turn the headlights on I'm not sure how that would translate with the raptor lights, personally I would feel better running that wire all the way to the fuse box and doing an add a fuse with it where the drl fuse itself is. Though I only kind of know basics on how the electrics work and reading diagrams so I could be wrong and it could work fine
 
since the drl's dim when you turn the headlights on I'm not sure how that would translate with the raptor lights, personally I would feel better running that wire all the way to the fuse box and doing an add a fuse with it where the drl fuse itself is. Though I only kind of know basics on how the electrics work and reading diagrams so I could be wrong and it could work fine

I’ll hook it up tomorrow and see if they dim with the drl’s. I currently have them wired into an add-a-fuse with the right side low beam, so I’ll just swap it over to one of the DRL’s. Hopefully I don’t fry anything.
 
Next question: There was a lighting mod called the 4 hi and 6 hi I used to do on my gm trucks that would make the fog lights run in conjunction with the high and low beams. This was done by connecting the fog and drl fuses each with their own an add-a-fuse connected by another in-line fuse.

Is this something that can be done with the Tacomas? Or is there something similar?
 
Next question: There was a lighting mod called the 4 hi and 6 hi I used to do on my gm trucks that would make the fog lights run in conjunction with the high and low beams. This was done by connecting the fog and drl fuses each with their own an add-a-fuse connected by another in-line fuse.

Is this something that can be done with the Tacomas? Or is there something similar?
there are diagrams on how to do this with the 2nd gens but personally I haven't seen a 3rd gen writeup it may be the same, mostly for fog lights with drl's and no low beams.
 
Has anyone tried powering “Raptor” style grille lights through the DRL’s with an add-a-fuse instead of running them through the low-beams with an add-a-fuse?
since the drl's dim when you turn the headlights on I'm not sure how that would translate with the raptor lights, personally I would feel better running that wire all the way to the fuse box and doing an add a fuse with it where the drl fuse itself is. Though I only kind of know basics on how the electrics work and reading diagrams so I could be wrong and it could work fine

Yes, I have. It doesn't work as you hope. Once you plug in the add-a-fuse, the DRL circuit in the fuse box keeps the Raptor lights on, always - even with the truck off and you switch the lights off. The DRL circuit is powered through a relay instead of a normal circuit. You have to tap the wires going to the DRL near the headlight assembly for the Raptor lights to turn on when the DRLs are on. I add(ed)-a-fuse into the INJ circuit for my raptor lights, so when the truck comes on, the Raptor lights turn on as well. I may end up tapping the DRL circuit and the headlight circuit in the future, because I want the Raptor lights to stay on when I get out of the truck and the engine is off, but turn off with the lights.

I got this info from KY_Rob on TW: "after some digging, if found out why your lights stayed on when you tapped the 10A DRL fuse. It looks to be a constant power fuse, that feeds the DRL relay. When the ECU wants the DRLs on, it sends voltage to the DRL relay, which turns on. Diagram below: "
1585746784407.png
 
Yes, I have. It doesn't work as you hope. Once you plug in the add-a-fuse, the DRL circuit in the fuse box keeps the Raptor lights on, always - even with the truck off and you switch the lights off. The DRL circuit is powered through a relay instead of a normal circuit. You have to tap the wires going to the DRL near the headlight assembly for the Raptor lights to turn on when the DRLs are on. I add(ed)-a-fuse into the INJ circuit for my raptor lights, so when the truck comes on, the Raptor lights turn on as well. I may end up tapping the DRL circuit and the headlight circuit in the future, because I want the Raptor lights to stay on when I get out of the truck and the engine is off, but turn off with the lights.

I got this info from KY_Rob on TW: "after some digging, if found out why your lights stayed on when you tapped the 10A DRL fuse. It looks to be a constant power fuse, that feeds the DRL relay. When the ECU wants the DRLs on, it sends voltage to the DRL relay, which turns on. Diagram below: "
1585746784407.png

Swapping it over to the INJ works perfect for me actually. Thanks for the info man!
 
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